ask92

I see you are in Rocklin as well, if you need a hand let me know!

I am on a lot of car forums, from Toyota Supras to Ford Trucks, but this is by far one of the best cumulative threads I have ever read. I am subscribed and look forward to reading about the future of this amazing machine and owner.

Wow looks very clean!

All my cars are registered in Amador county thus they only require smog on change of title, and if the previous owner is related to you then no smog is required at all. There are loopholes you need to just test them before you jump balls in. And no your car does not get impounded for illegal modifications, I attempted to smog a supra I had just bought that had some hidden mods on it and not only did they find the mods but they found that cats had been hollowed. All they did was give me the fail certificate and send me on my marry(sorrowful) way.

You obviously have me confused with someone else as I am not and will not be building a 7m. They are torquey engines that CAN be made reliable if done right, but by the time you spend all that money it would just be cheaper to go 2jzgte. Sound familiar? I have owned 3 supras, and a Sc300 so I know my way around the jz and 7m engines just a bit. I see that you are condemning anyone that does not have a NA-T z, yet you have never owned or worked on a GTE?

May I ask why you are on your 4th JZ build if the GE is so capable?

Those strut tower welds are pure automotive pornography......

Bone stock with ARP headstuds and a TT HG.... Generally NA-T setups are done instead of GTEs for no other reason than price. There are exceptions to this of course such as when you get up into the 4 digits with forged internals people will use GE blocks instead of GTEs because the GTEs oil squirters become obsolete due to forged pistons not having oil galleys. Regardless, most NA-T builds are done on a tight budget so corners are cut which ultimately result in failure. OP I am not sure how long you want the engine to last, or how you plan to drive it, but if you plan to keep it a long time and beat the hell out of it I would spend the extra few months of saving and just get a GTE right off the bat and not worry about opening it up or tuning or any of that BS. That being said I rode in a 600whp NA-T setup all around Vegas last week while attending SEMA and it was a blast due to the tune.

At work and read through the entire thread. Very cool to see where the car was and where it is today. In for more videos and thoughts on how she feels!

If you are looking for anything over 450hp do yourself and favor and just go GTE. By the time you get a NA and build it to handle 500hp you will have spent almost enough to just get a GTE in the first place. While yes high compression will make for a quicker responding engine, the engine will not last like an OEM GTE will unless you dump some serious money into internals and tuning. I have seen countless NA-T builds and the only ones that last and make decent power cost more than if you were to just go GTE from the start.

This thread is awesome, I love how you documented every stage of the build! Excited to see what is next.

I have found with the OEM JZ engine if you stay out of boost you can get low 20s in fat supras, so I would imagine if you stay out of boost in a Z mid 20s should be attainable. However you don't swap in a 300+hp monster to drive like a grandma .

Ah I am not talking with the v160 6 speed, I am talking with either a r154 or w58 which will bring the price down at least 2 grand. I do not have a JZ powered Z currently, but owned a supra and am still very active in the supra community so I know my way around the JZ engine very well. I have copy and pasted your list and will make my changes/comments in bold. Obviously this is my personal opinion and being pretty connected in the supra community my prices may be a little lower than normal. If you'd like me to explain anything more I would be more than happy to. Motor VVTI 2jzgte with all electronics(motor only)-$1600 with all electronics Trans W58 from NA supra- $250 Motor mounts/subframe-Custom built $200 for materials, this is very dependent on fab skill Trans mounts- Again this can be custom or be bought -$100 Custom driveshaft-$300 Aftermarket single turbo exhaust manifold-$200 Aftermarket Turbo-$500 Exhaust-$250 Upgraded clutch/pressure plate $200 Bigger intercooler $150 Intercooler piping kit $120 BOV $150 Waste gate $150 Bigger injectors-$400 Higher volume and pressure fuel pump $150 Fuel tank of some kind (fuel cell, or I think a 76 260z tank? with different fittings) $300 Bigger fuel lines $150 Rising rate fuel pressure regulator $125 Fuel filter $25 ECU of some sort $500 Gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temperature, speedometer, tachometer) $400 Electric fan w/shroud $100 $6320 Obviously there will be little stuff all over that will need to be bought so that is why I found that $7000 is the prime number. Also this is with a single turbo conversion, if you were to keep the stock twins you would not have to buy the turbo/manifold, injectors, FPR or the ECU so the cost would be cut down even more. I can write details on each part(what, where, why) if anyone wants that as well. -Andrew

If gas mileage is any concern of yours i would not go with a JZ. I would go with a sr20 or something smaller.

I agree with that. If you start buying 240z specific parts like BBK, rear end, etc etc it will add up very fast.