Bartman

You probably aleady know, but your going to have to go with a completely different mount setup. Are you going to make your own?

Well I guess I'm the guinea pig...I went ahead and placed an order. I'll update this thread with the results. Maybe I'll pretend like I'm Big Phil and make a video.

Well they do have a China address as well - but here's what they say on their web site regarding quality: Our company focuses on producing HID Kits, which are JAPAN OEM, we do lots of OEM orders for famous brands. In fact many HID Kits have a label "Made in Japan/Germany" are all made by our factory. As we sell over 10000 Kits per month, so the quality of our product is very good and guaranteed, you will get warrantee for 14 months. So be confident with our products. We printed "MADE IN JAPAN" on our HID Kits.

So here's a shot of the output from my Autopal MSR H4 housings. I think it looks pretty good, so it seems like a good potential candidate for an HID kit. Vvme sounds like a reputable company with good engineered products (of course, this is solely based on investigating their web site). They have a good warranty, return policy and material on their web site including instructions, videos, demos, etc. They also have a US address and phone number to reach them. So I'm seriously thinking about taking a chance and buying their digital slim bi-xenon kit. It's hard to beat all that for $86.99 including a relay harness and shipping. Anyone have any specifc information regarding this company or their products?

This whole HID thing is really confusing with lots of conflicting information. There are literally hundreds, if not thousands, of companies out there selling HID conversion kits. Of course they all claim that they’re not the cheap knock off kits sold by others that stop working after just a couple of months. How can you really tell the good one’s from the bad – and I really don’t believe that it’s just price. I found this digital slim 4-3(9003) bi-xenon kit for only $86.99 and it has a one year warranty http://www.vvme.com/digital-slim-h439003-bixenon-hid-kit-p-128.html?cPath=44_46_35. How can you tell if this is a good kit or not – and what’s the difference between this kit and others like the alumina kit that FricFrac used? Is the only real key to a good beam pattern and cut-off the housing itself? A side-by-side comparison of various kits would be great, but I haven’t been able to find anything like that.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=4317947&albumID=2742915&imageID=65006199 It looks like you took this one while I had it running. They came by and told me I couldn't start it anymore .

I wonder if this HID kit would work as well with the Autopal MSR H4 housings I'm running now http://www.autopal.com/msrhead-lamps04.html. They look almost identical to the one's FricFrac's using ( http://www.visionxusa.com/halogen/sealedbeam/). I guess if I went with this type setup I could try it first with the Autopal's, and change to different one's if they don't work well.

For that thickness you need adapters unless you want extremely long wheels studs. You can buy adapters that keep the same lug pattern. I got mine from http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=705 and they're great to work with.

I'm not really sure what to think of this post and information. Some pic's would definitely add some credibility. The web site listed seems a little vague as well, without much specific information or pic's. No contact information on the web site either, other than email. Are you in any way connected with this company or the web site listed in your post?

In response to your original question, I agree with what's been stated. Try to stick with a location similar to what was in the donor vehicle. My LT1 computer is placed similar to where it was located in the donor Camaro, and you can see it in the upper right corner of this pic. As for 'tune-ability', there's plenty more available on a computer controlled car than an old school carb based vehicle. On vehicles like mine no 'chip burning' is required, just hook up a laptop and you can monitor and change over a hundred different data types. http://www.ttspowersystems.com/DataMaster.html Go with what you want, but your last statements are simply incorrect. EFI engines are virtually limitless as well, as long as you start with good base parts - and they respond quite well to improvements. I still have a stock bottom end and you can see the results in my signature block, and I think my horsepower numbers are even higher as I had low fuel pressure when it was tested.

Updated pic's below. Now that it's done I wish I would have spent more time prepping before paint. There are a couple of areas where you can see sanding scratches and imperfections in my body work. Oh well, I'm not going to redo it - so it will have to do.

I don't understand your question. I have Tokico Illumina adjustable shocks and Arizona Z coilovers and the coilovers don't prevent me from adjusting my shocks.

So my LT1 has been running hot for quite a while now. I have a JTR radiator and a Taurus fan, but when it's hot outside like it was this weekend (well over 100 degrees) my engine runs pretty hot. I have A/C as well, but when it gets too hot I can't run it without overheating. So I'm thinking of installing an oil cooler to see if that can bring down my operating temperatures. Hayden makes these sandwich type oil cooler adapter's that go between the oil fiter and the engine which seems like it would be pretty easy solution. Anyone have any expereince with these or any comments in general about running an oil cooler to lower engine temperatures? I don't have an oil temperature gauge, so I don't know what my oil temp's are. Also how big of an oil cooler would I need? I found a few on eBay for LT1's in 9 or 19 row sizes.

I'm in London right now, but I think my hatch doesn't sit as high as your's does. I trimmed the hatch seal down so that it would sit lower.

I used Evercoat Rage Gold, and it was easy to work with and I got very good results.

The carbon fiber tail light panel arrived last night and I installed it today. I like it, but I think it would be better with a chrome surround on the tail light openings instead of the black one that came with it. I may need to remove it from my stockers and put it on the cf pieces. What do you think? P.S. - Clive, I thought I answered your question before, but I don't see it - my bumpers are Euro bumpers.

I have a Vintage A/C system and my condensor covers the same area as the radiator. I think this is pretty typical and probably not the source of your problem. I think you need to make sure that all the air is going through your radiator by sealing it to the front of the engine compartment and closing off any other openings that allow air to pass through.

I don't know what you're planning for mounts, but LTx engines use the same setup as any other SBC, while LSx engines will require a different setup. LSx engines are nice, but LTx engines definitely respond well to modifications as well. Mine has a couple of goodies and makes about 400 RWHP. Probably more since I had low fuel pressure when I dyno'ed it.

I wish I could find something like the pod David had made. I had my high beam/turn signal lights in the dash between the speedo and tach, but now that I have a dash cover I don't want to put holes in it and I'm not ambitious enough to put the lights into my Autometer gauges. I was able to find this: http://www.yearwood.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=498/prd498.htm but I don't think it would look good installed in my car.