Bartman

I ran one of these for a while under my passenger seat: http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc680.htm. It wasn't strong enough for a street car, but should be great for a track car.

I don't think that using coilovers and Illuminas are race car category items...that is unless you use really high spring rates. Suspension stiffness and compliance is definitely something that requires a trade-off decision, other items include seat belts/harnesses, roll cages, sound, heat, etc.

I read a good article in European Car Magazine the other day, and I thought it would be good to post here for discussion. http://www.europeancarweb.com/features/epcp_0908_bmw_325i_bimmerworld/index.html The issue is when does your street car turn into something that doesn't work well on the street anymore. There are many things that can be done to make a car faster and handle better, but there's usually a price to be paid. What do you think?

Subaru World Rally Blue Pearl.

I finally went to the one in Corona this morning. What a great place - they had everything I needed in Stainless Steel. I'll be making more trips to replace additional bolts in the future!

You might want to read this thread before you do business with this guy: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149660

More info please. Pic's, cost, options, etc.

I appreciate all the replies so far, but I'd really like to find a regular 240Z hood (no vents) in very good condition- preferably one I can just scuff and paint. My Carbon Fiber hood is from Raceon (so it's really a fiberglass hood with a layer of carbon fiber over the top) and has never been on the street, and it would be ideal if someone wanted to work some sort of trade. The only issue is that I don't want the exposed carbon fiber look anymore. If nothing else I could just paint over the one I have now...but it seems like such a waste. I don't want to deal with shipping, I've had several problems in the past and it's just too darn expensive.

Nothing, I just think a regular painted hood would be better suited for my current plans. Of course that means I'd have to find a home for the carbon fiber hood I have now. Maybe someone with a nice hood would want to trade with some cash for my cf hood.

tfreer85 - How did it get that crease by the latch? I'm also concerned about your location, that would be a pretty far drive for me. Rimal310 - The first one looks like it has too much damage on the nose, but the second one looks pretty good except for the hood pin holes. If nothing better comes up, that may be workable.

Looking for regular 240Z hood in good shape in SoCal area.

I finally got some paint on my car. It's just the jambs so far, but at least it's progress. I just stapled some Home Depot plastic on the walls and used the same plastic as well as some newspaper to cover the areas that I didn't want paint on. Then I shot some silver Urethane basecoat Then I topped it off with electric blue candy pearl mixed into my clearcoat I'm happy with the results, but there's still a lot of work to do. Shooting candy is not easy, but it looks fantastic in the sun.

I used the Bowers kit http://www.bowersrodshop.com/info_pulley.htm,but it's specific to the LT1. It took a little trimming, but it works good. The insde part is not a bolt in and it does take some fabrication.

Yes, I installed an over the radiator intake on my car. The LT1 has an air bleeder on the water pump outlet that allows me to get rid of any air in my system. You will need some way to get the air out of the highest point in the system.

We have similar self-imposed goals - getting the widest tire possible without adding flares. You didn’t specifically mention it, but I assume you don’t want to tub it either. If this is the case, I don’t think that 315’s are a possible solution, even if you relocate the struts. In my case I went with coilovers and 8†springs so that the lower perch would sit above the tire. The limiting factor is the available with between the inside of the fender wells and the fender itself (I’ve rolled the lips on my fender so there’s no more room to be gained there). I played with various combinations of offsets using different spacers and got my 275’s almost perfectly centered in the space available and there’s almost no room left over. In fact I think that the differences in manufacturers would be enough so that there are probably some 275’s out there that wouldn’t fit without rubbing.

I was thinking of that place, but couldn't remember the name. I've gone to the one on Edinger a few times, and they have a great selection. I didn't even know they had a location in Corona as well.

I don't want them painted, so I'll have to look at getting some plated or stainless replacements. Maybe I can find a good hardware store locally that will have the sizes I need.

So I’m getting close to paint and I have my car almost completely apart. I don’t want to use my nasty looking bolts against my nice paint job, so I’m wondering how I can clean them up. Mostly they are covered with paint, and I would like to remove it. The main bolts I’m concerned with are the bolts that connect the fenders and all the bolts in the door jambs. So does anyone have nay suggestions on how I can clean them up, or do I just need to purchase new ones. I’ve seen the fender bolts on eBay, so I guess that’s an option for them if they don’t clean up well.

Guy, Sorry to hear about your Opti issues, and I hope your back on the street soon. So what data do you have to substantiate that the MSD unit is any better than the genuine GM unit? I searched before buying mine and couldn't find anything that indicates the MSD unit is any better than the genuine GM Opti.

Any idea of when this may be available? I'm getting ready to paint and I would want to do this before I started shooting the paint.

Are you planning on running flares? I don't think you can fit a 9" wide rim on the front without them.

Jon’s post seems a little condescending towards anyone running 18’s, but maybe I’m a little biased. Here’s another thread regarding someone installing 18’s and a discussion regarding the wisdom of that type of setup: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117965 A larger overall wheel diameter will “raise the car upâ€, but it will decrease the gap between the wheel and the fender by the same amount, so you don’t have to lower it down “really far†to get rid of this gap. I like exactly where my car sits and it has good suspension travel and handles pretty well to boot. I autocrossed my car with this setup and was very happy with the results. I take issue with Jon’s last sentence, and think he’s really trying to disparage anyone running 18’s. If you don’t like them - don’t run them on your car, but I don’t think my car has the “slammed suspension but still high off the ground look†and I certainly didn’t slap them on or cut my springs.