Bartman

If you're looking for the biggest you can fit under stock fenders, go with the 8.5's. Look at post #3 in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122754

I guess it all depends on what you want to do. The LT1 definitely has some advantages such as reverse flow cooling, fuel injection, and aluminum heads (depending on what vehicle the engine comes from). If you're planning fuel injection, I'd say it would probably be better to wait for an LT1 engine. They are failry readily available and relatively inexpensive as well (not sure on availability and cost where you are). The aftermarket support is still good and there is plenty of information available online. There will be additional difficulty on the install with the wiring, but I think it would be well worth it in the long run. You can also purchase applications that will allow you to monitor and diagnose your engine as well as modfiying parameters the PCM is using. Of course you would need a cable and a laptop for this.

I got the aluminum spacers delivered last night and they look like they will work great. Unless I run into any other issues (knock on wood) I should have the installation completed this weekend.

Yes, my body is stock except for fender rolling. If you go with 17" diameter wheels you may want to go with 9" rears instead of 9.5". That's the widest 17" wheel that anyone is running without flares that I know of. You can search through posts by 'Clifton' and '2fiddyz' as they are running this size on the back of their cars.

Front Tires 245/40R18 Falken Azenis OD 25.6" Tread width 9.1" Rims 18x8.5 +35 Offset Spacer Modern Motorsport Adapters Approx. 28mm Net Offset Approx. +7mm ______________________________________ Rear Tires 275/35R18 Falken Azenis OD 25.6" Tread width 10.0" Rims 18x9.5 +35 Offset Spacer 5/8" 15.875mm Net Offset +19.125mm I found someone local that's making aluminum spacers for my coilover sleeves and I may have them tonight. I'll post up pic's as soon as I can.

I'm using larger diameter 280Z strut tubes, but trying to use a spacer seems like it would be the easiest way to go. I'll see what I can find. edit: I found this online http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4597-7972-2-12-od-x-025-wall-tube-6061-t6-aluminum.aspx Sounds like it would work.

The 9.5's have over 3" lips on them.

Are you referring to using the threaded sleeve as a spacer? If so, I don't think it's thick enough to work as a spacer. The metal is extremely thin. If i could find a thicker aluminum sleeve to use as a spacer, then I think that would work just fine. The existing ring doesn't interfere as far as clearance goes, but it is unsprung weight. I'll look at it, but I think it would be difficult to remove without a lot of cutting and grinding. I have my old 240 strut tubes that I could install instead, but I don't know if it would be worth swapping them out.

I figured I would need to disassemble, but why would I need to remove the existing welded rings? The new one's would be welded on about an inch or two above the existing one's. If I could get aluminum sleeve spacers an inch or two long that would rest on the existing welded rings that would be great.

They're definitely 280z strut tubes. Ground Control screwed up on the first shipment and when I called them back they told me they don't make sleeves longer than 4" because the walls of the sleeves are so thin. A-1 listed the sleeves as being a little smaller than I thought I needed, but when I did a search it sounded like other people had gotten them to work. 4" sleeves should work fine, but they need to be moved up on the strut tubes.

Post #53 has the pic's from my testing with the tires on. I'm sorry this is taking so long to get the rear spring situation fixed so that I can get this on the ground, it seems like it's taking forever. BTW - To weld on a new support ring for the threaded sleeve to rest on, do I have to disassemble the strut?

To start I have a set of used 250 lb 8" springs. I'll have to see if binding will be a problem or not at that rate. I think I'm able to go with a little wider rim due to the 18" diameter. I've moved the wheel throughout it's travel range without springs on, and it looks like it will work.

Looks like it's going to clear. I'm working out issues with getting the rear springs to sit above the rear tires and then I can put it on the ground. It looks like I just need to raise my coilover sleeves with some new lower supports welded above the old ones.

So I received the 5" sleeves and nuts from A-1 Racing...and they won't fit (the inside diameter is still too small)! So I think the proper solution is to weld on new lower retaining rings above the old ones and use my original 4" sleeves. I guess this means I need to remove the strut inserts Man what a pain this has been!

I'm selling my 17x7's with 225/45-17's. They aren't zero offset, but they work perfect with Modern Motorsports adapters. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/eltoroautox607160.jpg Shipping to the east cost would be pretty expensive though. PM me if interested.

No phone for Ross. If you want to order from someone with a phone number try Techno Toy Tuning http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=356

Still waiting for the 5" rear sleeves before I can put it on the ground. Should be here in a couple of days. So far in addition to the wheels and tires I've had to purchase spacers, longer wheel studs, shorter springs, longer rear sleeves and new thread nuts for the sleeves (different thread). The front adapters I already had look like they're going to work and I rolled my rear fenders myself for free. Wheels $550 Tires $750 Spacers $29 Sleeves and nuts $75 Wheel studs $31 Used springs $65 Having 275's tucked under stock fenders...priceless.

The front's are installed using the Modern Motorsport adapters which are a little over an inch wide. The tires are 245/40R18.

Very cool, you're really going to have a one-of-a-kind car there...and a cool story to go with it as well.

A small torch and a putty knife is making quick work of removing the sound deadening and then a little bit of sanding reveals nice shiny metal. A little work with a hammer and the bad dog rails slips right over the stockers. It's actually easier than I thought it would be, but I still need to make it fit a little better and then weld it in place.

I'm not familiar with this y44 engine, what was the donor vehicle?