Bartman

1. Will the AC compressor fit around the right front frame area usng the JTR engine/trans mounts? Not without notching the frame. I used bowers kit to move it to the upper left side of the engine http://www.bowersrodshop.com/info_pulley.htm 2. If not, are there brackets to switch the AC with either the alternator or the smog pump to make it all fit? I haven't seen one that works in the Z engine compartment. 3. In a couple of threads I've read about problems with the opti-spark (opt-crap) on the '94, with references to the vented '95 being the "preferered" LT1 year. Why? Venting with fresh air from the intake system (no water) instead of from outside air which could include water (especially since it's right under the water pump). I switched my 94 non vented to a 95 vented unit. 4. I've read that the '77 280Z fuel pump will work with a TBI/TPI motor, but will it work with an LT1? Yes, I used one for a while. 5. I've seen the T56 mods (and costs) to adapt a mechanical speedo cable. Has anyone just bought an aftermarket electronic speedo and re-used the 280Z gauge face (seems a lot easier and about the same cost)? I used an Autometer gauge but didn't use the stock gauge face. I'm sure it could be done if you really wanted to. 6. I'll need to pass Calif. smog inspections, so I'm interested in talking to anyone who's already been there and done that. I have met with a very competent CARB Referee, Gus Romo, who is also an Auto Technology instructor at Rio Hondo College in Whittier, CA. He seems like a very helpful resource for setting up the LT1 to pass, but he doesn't know 280Z swaps specifically. Does anybody have information to share? Nothing specific, just retain all the emissions from the donor vehicle. 7. I'd like to avoid as many pitfalls as possible, so if I've forgotten something really important regarding an LT1 swap, please educate me. Can't think of anything at this point.

No, but that's next on the list.

I'm running NGK TR55 plugs. I've also replaced almost all the sensors to no avail. I couldn't wait, so I took the intake manifold off again to try and see why the car is smoking since I replaced it. The intake and throttle body had a significant amount of oil in them; so that explains the smoke, but I don't really know why. I'm waiting for another fel pro 1284 intake gasket set before I can install everything again and see how it does. I was planning on taking it to the Japanese Classic Car Show on Saturday, so hopefully it'll be running good before then. I'll make another datalog after I get her running again.

Putting a V8 in a Z is definitely an attention getter, especially when you're the only one there. Even without a paint job, I generally get plenty of attention when I take her to shows. It's interesting to hear the comments, and most are very favorable. I took my older daughter to a little show at the local racetrack and she couldn't believe all the people interested in and constantly gathered around my car...and out of all the cars there mine looked the worst on the outside.

Looks great Bryan. I'm jealous of everyone getting their car's painted lately...and mine still isn't.

Congrat's, it looks fantastic! It must feel good to finally get it painted, I know I'm looking forward to getting mine done some day.

My MAF is a Grantelli unit (like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Granatelli-MAF-sensor-for-LT1-camaro_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33557QQihZ017QQitemZ270169499152QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW), but I still have the stock one as well. I removed it completely to see how it would run using speed density and it didn't seem to run any different (although it was throwing a code, as expected). I don't have any bends in my intake, but I'll run without the hood to see if the airflow is being restricted before my air filter. Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll keep playing with it this weekend and see if I make any progress.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102085

Great numbers Mark! do you think the actual PCM could have problems or just the tune? If it's just the tune, maybe you could just send me that and I could give it a try (if you have the file).

I appreciate the offer, and I'll let you know based on what my friends shop can find. With all my upgrades a stock tune probably wouldn't work to well with my engine. I had the problem with the tune from the previous owner as well as a new tune that I got from PCM for less after all my upgrades to the engine (cam, heads, etc.). Jody (jbc3) was kind enough to edit my PCM for less program a while back so that it would idle in open loop, which really helped it run better at idle. We did this thinking that the cam overlap was causing the O2 sensors to think it was running lean when it wasn't.

The Opti is a new Accel unit. The vent line from the passengers side valve cover is routed to my throttle body and it's still there, but I'm planning on using a breather that should prevent oil from going through. The throttle body is fairly new as well, so it's not carboned up, but it had an oily film that appeared to be from the vent line. This problem has caused me to lose sleep for quite a while, and I've just about given up. I've run out of ideas, so I'm hoping someone can come up with something or else I'll have to see if my friend's shop has any luck with it.

Believe it or not, I'm still working on this problem. There's been a few times where I thought it was resolved, but it wasn't. For some reason the stumble is really bad some times and not so bad at others. The problem is actually a few years old as Tim240z was experiencing the same thing when he had this engine in his car. So I've been thinking that there's a vacuum problem somewhere although I couldn't find one anywhere. I finally got a good deal on an intake with ported runners that match my heads, and installed it. It looks like there was some internal leaking between cylinders where the intake manifold connects to the heads, so I had high hopes of finally getting rid of the stumble. So I buttoned everything up and it sounded better, but I still have a stumble. It appears that I have much better vacuum, in fact it looks like there's so much vacuum that it's sucking oil into the intake and blowing smoke out the exhaust. I've found some posts on another forum that talks about oil getting into the intake through the vent line between the throttle body and valve cover as well as through the PVC circuit. I'm going to repace the elbow on the valve cover with a Purolator breather B23165 that's supposed to resolve the problem in the vent line and possibly an inline compressor catch can for the PVC circuit. I'm taking my car into my firends shop on Monday to see if he can figure out what going on, as it doesn't appear I'm making much progress. Any other ideas before I bring it in?

The early Z bumpers came "tucked in". You could put on a set from an earlier car (including the brackets), or attempt to bring your later style bumpers in closer. The picture isn't the greatest, but here's an early (70-72) "European" style bumper installed on my 73.

As was posted, 73's did not come with a rear sway bar. If you want to install one in the rear, I wouldn't do it without upgrading the front bar to match. You can get a good deal on an ST sway bar set from Summit Racing. Bobby C., Is the sway bar upside down in your pic? 240ztt, Have you tried shortening your end links? It should fit if you do. I just installed the ST set on my 73 and it fits with the end links shortened, but I don't know if there's enough clearance yet. I also have custom lower arms with multiple connection points for the end links.

I think all, if not most, of us realize this is a Ferrari 250 GTO replica kit. There are plenty of people on this site that have put one together or are currently in the process of putting one together. It still requires a great deal of work to install and complete the kit, as anyone that's put one together will tell you.

Justin, good to see your making progress. I've been wondering when I would be seeing and hearing your car again. At first I thought it would be a no brainer with the black center's getting the nod, but now that I see it all polished I think it looks better that way.

I've got a mechanical issue that I've been trying to resolve (stumble under load), so I haven't been able to give the new setup a complete workout. That being said I did take it out a couple times around my neighborhood to try and get a feel for the new setup as well as debug my stumbling problem. At first there was a vibration in the wheel, but that went away after a couple of miles. I've taken it over some pretty good bumps without any rubbing, but the car is now pretty stiff with the new swaybars. The car doesn't feel too 'heavy' and the steering still feels fairly light even though I have 8.5" wide rims (previously 7") It feels good on the freeway and I didn't hear any road noise...of course my engine is pretty loud anyway. There may be some push, but my front to rear stagger isn't that much (only 1"), so it may not be as pronounced as what Guy is experiencing. I need to get it back out on the Autocross course to see how it feels close to the limits.

Plenty of pic's of my dual 2.5" exhaust with crossover. http://mysite.verizon.net/ress1lhb/barts570z/id14.html

Looks like your making good progress. 350whp shouldn't be a problem with some head work and the proper cam. I've got over 360 and I think there's still more in it.

There should be stock wiring you can use. It took some time, but I finally found a thread on ClassicZCars that discusses it. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7381 Post #19 has the most information.

I don't know if these are the same type CV's you have, but this should help explain how to assemble and disassemble them. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90068 I don't see how it could slip and not be broken.

The picture effects are annoying to me as well. Does he have to do that to every single pic? The hood alignment really bugs me as well. That's something I always notice and I'm going to make sure mine fits just right before I get her painted. Another thing is the "custom front grill". It looks okay from a distance, but I'd be willing to bet it looks cobbled together up close. It also needs some tires and wheels to fill up those back fender openings and everything that BRAAP stated as well. Definitely not even close to a $25,000 car.

Just curious on how this will work aerodynamically. I understand cowl induction and ram air, but what you posted looks like a combination of both. I would think that air would flow through, so you will get nice cold air from that...but wouldn't that air flowing through prevent any 'cowl induction' flow?

Looking forward to seeing the new issue, I really enjoyed the last one.