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Everything posted by Bartman
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My daily driver is a 94 Honda ST1100 and it currently has over 150,000 miles. I just read about the new Concours 1400 yesterday and I may have to get one if this one ever dies on me.
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I think the small hole in the head gasket is probably just a red herring. I think the most important issue has already been stated in this thread a few times. You need to ensure that the air is getting to, and flowing through, your radiator. Providing a "scoop" to the bottom of your radiator not only helps direct the air through your radiator it also helps prevent air from going under your radiator instead of through it. I experienced higher temperatures at speed when I "leaned" my radiator back, and I was able to get my temperatures back down by installing some sheet metal to prevent air from going below the radiator. This problem can also be compounded by thicker radiators that are more likely to resist air moving through them. As you stated in your original post it "heats up on the freeway. Runs fine around town". That sounds like an airflow problem to me (of course there are other possible candidates that were already covered in this thread), and the same symptoms that I had.
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I think the rockauto units are the cheap universal one's, but you can check it out for yourself when you get them. If they're much thinner than the factory units I wouldn't waste your time installing them. My factory boot was $29.59 plus $7.95 shipping for a total of $37.54. It came with a big tube of grease instead of a little packet like the aftermarket units and also included a new retaining ring and snap ring which the aftermarket kit did not.
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So I had a ripped CV boot and needed to buy a replacement. I started with a cheap universal type unit and that broke very quickly. They go by the brand name of McQuay-Norris or Dorman, and don't bother purchasing them. Next I tried Beck Arnley #103-2525 Which appeared to be much thicker and higher quality than the normal parts store units. The probem with these is that they are for model years 97-01 and would not fit my CV's. Everything fit but the diameter of the large end of the boot was too small. I finally bought a factory CV boot for 94 and earlier Q45 models from OnlyFactyoryParts.com. These arrived quickly, looked to be of high quality and fit perfectly. So if you need CV boots it appears there are at least three different Q45 inner CV's, 94 and under, 95-96, and 97 and up. Make sure you buy factory boots unless you have 97 up CVs (Beck Arnley only makes boots for 97 and up) and it would help if you know the model year of your Q45 inner CV donor vehicles. I hope this helps someone.
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Sorry to hear about the damage, but glad you're alright. Hope you can get it all fixed fairly soon and get her back out on a course. From reading your other posts, you'll probably have power steering by the time it's ready to run again.
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Seems a little high doesn't it? http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/car/395556475.html
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I think it looks great! I can't wait to see and hear it. Did you sign up for the JCCS? Maybe that would be a good unveiling for your newly v8 powered ride.
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Looks cool, but that's pretty crazy.
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I have purchased and used wheel adapters from Modern Motorsports as well as Techno toy Tuning, so I thought I'd post up my experience and observations on the parts and customer service. Quality - I see no discernable difference between them as far as the quality of the adapters. They both appear well made with good fit and tight tolerances. Differences - The Techno Toy Tuning adapters come with 12x1.5 wheel studs whereas the Modern Motorsports adapters come with 12x1.25 Price - Techno Toy Tuning $180, Modern Motorsports $215 Extras - Techno Toy Tuning adapters come with lug nuts to connect adapters to hubs as well as tuner lugs to install new wheels to the adapters, Modern Motorsports doesn't include any lug nuts. My order from Techno Toy tuning included an extra lug nut for the adapter, an extra tuner lug for the wheel, and two keys for the tuner lugs. Adapter thickness - Techno Toy Tuning can get you 25mm to 32mm thick adapters, and may be able to do them thicker if you need it. You can call them for details. Modern Motorsports only sells one thickness that I know of, and he won't tell you what that is. He may do different thicknesses as well, but you need to email him to find out. Customer Service - Techno Toy Tuning has a phone number and they are happy to answer your questions. Modern Motosports does not have a phone number and in my experience email response isn't the best. Let the flaming begin!
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18x9.5 R 18x8.5 F installed...lotsa pic's
Bartman replied to Bartman's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
They look great, but I won't know how well they work until I can give them a good workout. I need to get some more things taken care of and then I can get her back on the Autocross course. -
18x9.5 R 18x8.5 F installed...lotsa pic's
Bartman replied to Bartman's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I did have the MMS spacers, but they are more like 1 - 1/8" thick. Pushing the front wheels in another 1/8" should give me the airdam clearance I'm looking for. -
I would use the stock plastic PCM bracket and fab up something to connect it to. I think the stock bracket works well to keep the PCM secure as well as allowing room for some air movement around it. I bolted the stock bracket to my firewall on my install.
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Yes, the 9.5's are in the pic. You can probably go wider, but you're really limited in tire selection on a 15" diameter wheel. Here's a link to a stock fendered ZX with 9.5's on the back.http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123634
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Are you going for the stretched tire look? 225 is awfully narrow for a 9.5" wide wheel. I'm running 275's on my 9.5's.
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18x9.5 R 18x8.5 F installed...lotsa pic's
Bartman replied to Bartman's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I'm switching to 25mm adapters from Techno Toy Tuning on the front to help give me a little more clearance. I'll post up once I get them installed. BTW - Gabe at Techno Toy Tuning is very helpful and easy to work with. -
Great new Clive! Hope to see and hear more soon.
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I used Ichiba studs and they work great. They use the 12x1.25 thread the same as the stock studs. http://www.ichibausa.com/ni12exstsh50.html
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Rear Sway Bar Clearance
Bartman replied to Bartman's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I guess this issue is nothing new! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99182 -
Hey, that's the first time I've ever seen the hood up. Looks like your making good progress! I hope to see and hear it soon.
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Rear Sway Bar Clearance
Bartman replied to Bartman's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I don't know yet if it will contact the CV boot during normal driving. I suspect not, but I'm worried about driving hard while Autocrossing or a track day. I do have a ripped boot, and the ripped boot is much thinner than the others, so it must be an aftermarket boot. Do you know where I can get a good one? Do you have pic's of the front mount bar installed? Trading may be a possible solution if you would rather have a rear mount bar. It is the smooth part of the bar, but it's not touching lightly, the CV boot is pretty deformed at full droop. Limiting straps may be a good solution, but I assume they would need to be custom made for my application. The bar would need to move back quite a bit to bring the LCA mounting point behind the CV, but I'll look at that as well. Thanks for all the info. -
I have a Q45 Rear with CV joints and I recently installed an ST rear sway bar. The clearance between the sway bar and the LCA is pretty close as well as clearance to the CV. If I jack up the rear by the diff the sway bar actually contacts the CV boots when the rear tires are off the ground. Will this be a problem, and if so what can I do about it? I've already removed the spacer completely, so the end links are as short as they can go. I took the above picture with jack stands under the LCA's so this is pretty much how the sway bar sits when it's on the ground. There's about 3/4" space between the sway bar and the LCA and about the same between the sway bar and the CV boot.