Bartman

I think you're going to be much better off with +20 than you would have been with +4. Using spacers isn't a problem, as it allows you to dial in the wheel placement to exactly where you want it to be. Someone else posted up pic's with the +4 offset and it appears that it doesn't fit without flares. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126343

BTW - My fender vents are not welded in, and I don't think Dragonfly's are either. The problem with using vents fron another car is that the curvature of the fender is probably going to be slightly different. You can correct this when you blend them in, but if you don't it could be fairly noticeable. The MR2 vents look a little too big to me, but if it works for you then go for it.

An LT1 motor with an LT4 cam is not an LT4, there are other differences as well. http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/LT4.htm As you're probably already aware there are problems using the Corvette accessories when installing the LT1 engines into our Z's. I'm not sure about you're overheating issues, but the hose routing does look overly cluttered. I would eliminate the breathers as well as all air the engine needs should be metered. You may wind up ahead getting the problems worked out and selling the truck with the engine in it. The truck looks pretty nice and you could probably get more for it than it would cost to buy another engine for your Z. Good luck.

Way to go Bryan, it's going to look awesome when your finished!

Camaro fender vents for me as well. I still need to add holes similar to what bjhines did and make them functional.

I don't know if they can get the thickness you need, but give Gabriel a call at Techno Toy Tuning. http://technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=356

I'm running the same size rims without ZG flares. You can easily run 275's on the back and 245's on the front...maybe even a little wider since you'll be running flares. You can see the specifics on my web pages and then just figure out how much further you want to go out for the flares. http://mysite.verizon.net/ress1lhb/barts570z/id19.html BTW - Running wide spacers isn't a problem as long as they're well made.

You could contact '240hoke'. He may be able to help you...or get you in contact with someone who can. He's doing the swap in his car now http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124985

HybridZ member 'Briguy280Z'

That's just plain sexy. What will you do for air filtration...just run without?

It depends on the bank, but I did it all in one day when I sold a car a while back. Just call the bank and see if both you and the seller can meet at the bank to complete the transaction. The buyer pays the payoff amount to the bank, the bank removes their lien, documents are signed, and your done. Of course if your buying the car for more than the payoff you pay the balance directly to the seller.

Sounds good David. I'm not real close, but I'll sign up to your mailing list and see how it goes.

So this system would be somewhat similar to the Delteq system which also uses the Northstar coilpacks. http://www.delteq.com/opti_direct.htm Although I think the Delteq is designed to work with the stock PCM and still uses the Opti to some extent. They claim that with high voltage removed from the Opti-Spark, the problems of cap & rotor wear, internal arc-over and cross-firing vanish. Speeder, what advantages does your system have over the Delteq system?

Ross, I'm happy to see you posting to this thread and glad to hear your trying to correct your communication issues. I have received all my orders, but I did not receive responses to all my emails. Things happen, so hey they could have gotten lost. I post and check threads on HybridZ and there has been many threads of people trying to get in contact with Modern Motorsports. Here's just a small sampling of some "Where's Ross" threads: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84793 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114098 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122296 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112754

To be fair I've never heard anyone report that they didn't receive what they purchased from Modern Motorsports...eventually. If you have the time to wait, he has good quality parts. On the bad side there have been quite a few threads over the years of people trying to get in contact with Ross without hearing anything back for weeks at a time. So caveat emptor "let the buyer beware". I wish this information was more readily available for people making purchases on his site, but it's not. There is no phone number and your dealing with someone that is doing this as a "side" business. Sd240z, this probably doesn't help you since you already made your purchase and want to know when your going to receive it. Personally I would only purchase from Modern Motorsports if they are the only available option. I enjoy being able to call and talk with someone regarding my order, or at least being able to send an email and receive a response within a reasonable amount of time.

I'd tell you what I think...but then this thread will go to the same place as the last one. Good luck, I hope you get your parts soon.

LT1-280z, that's almost exactly where I have mine mounted.

Here's a pic of my Kaminari front air dam with the SS hood. The Kaminari's cost a little more than other front air dams, but they are made well and have very good fit and finish.

The PCM is pretty stout and can generally handle some pretty brutal environments. I was just talking to my mechanic friend earlier today about the location of my PCM, and he thought the location I'm using is great. I was concerned about the proximity to the header, but he assured me that it has plenty of air flow and the header isn't too close. So, I think that a little exposure isn't a big problem. Of course orientation could become a factor and you want to ensure that the connectors are protected and oriented so water can't become a problem.

Most of the engine wires run to the upper back of the engine and get distributed from there. So if you want to hide them I think it would be best to attempt to get the wires as close as possible to that location. From there some run down to the transmission, some to the starter, and some run between the valve covers and intake on either side for the fuel injectors and various electronics on the front of the engine. These wires are all pretty easy to hide and I'm using Corvette fuel rail covers to hide a lot of it, and I think it works out fairly clean. Where are you mounting your PCM? Are you running windshield wipers, will you be installing AC, running a heater? Mounting the PCM where the stock heater was and running the wires up through the wiper motor location may be the cleanest option if you aren't using those items. Running the wires all the way to the front (radiator support) still leaves the problem of getting the wires to the engine and would require really long wires (meaning possibly cutting up your expensive wiring harness to lengthen it). Of course you could use the framerail trick to hide the wires that do go to the front (headlights, horn, turn signals, etc.)

Yes, the stock throttle body is designed such that the butterflies are closed during idle. There's a seperate passage in the throttle body controlled by an IAC solenoid that allows the proper amount of air necessary to maintain the predetermined idle speed. I think most modern stock EFI systems have similar systems.

If you need one go with something like what ezzzzzzz mentioned. I thought I would need one, but once I worked out all the kinks in my system I didn't need one afterall. Although the idle doesn't "bump up", it stays the same when the A/C is turned on. Is that something you can do on your system? Do you have an IAC circuit? My IAC automatically adjusts to keep the same idle even though I have an increased load when the compressor kicks in.

Looks like your making good progress. I like the look of the hood and I had one myself for a while...unfortunately my wife wasn't too fond of it and I eventually wound up selling it. It looks like the curvature of the hood doesn't quite match the curvature of the fender. Is this the case, and if so are you going to do anything about it? Maybe it's tough to have a fiberglass hood fit as well as a steel one, but I know mine didn't match well and it really bugged me. Bjhines opened up the front and back of his SS cowl induction hood: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125762&highlight=hood

Happy Birthday Ken! I hope you get your Z back on the road soon.

Terry, do you know why your car was faster without the sway bar? Did it reduced body roll, but made the car too stiff? Was the track uneven or a little on the rough side? My car is definitely a lot stiffer with the bar installed, but I haven't got it out on the autocross course since the upgrade, so I don't know if there is any difference in performance. I do know that I had a considerable amount of body roll before I installed it. I'm really interested in hearing about the 'seat of pants' difference between running the bar and not running the bar as well.