Bartman

17 x 7 +40, and probably 17 x 7.5 + 40 will fit using wheel adapters. You can get adapters from Modern Motorsports or other places as well: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6&PHPSESSID=0b28a52775df90487a594ce04609ed17 http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=356 I currently have 17 x7 +40 wheels with adapters, but I will be selling them as I picked up larger wheels today.

I'm backing out of my order. I already emailed Kim, and she was very nice about it. I'm going with a different route and I will post up when I get them.

I've got most of the spec's listed on my web site: http://mysite.verizon.net/ress1lhb/barts570z/id6.html My post #8 in this thread give more detailed spec's on the head and cam http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110004 I think the package is good, I just think there's some other problem(s) occurring. I found one of my own old threads where I was discussing the stumbling problem, and jbc3 posted up some good information in post #17. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112990 I'm going to investigate further based on his recommendations...specifically looking for vacuum leaks.

The HP numbers are good, and the torque numbers are excellent. I especially like how the torque curve is nice and broad. The only reason I was hoping for more is because the guy that sold me the head and cam package claimed it would be good for at least 400 to the wheels. The stumble problem is really bugging me. It's been a fairly consistent problem the whole time I've had the engine...and it sounds like it was a problem for Tim240z when he had the engine as well. There's been a lot of modifications (heads, cam, roller rockers, etc.) as well as replacement of wires, sensors, etc; but the problem remains. I'm just about ready to bring it somewhere to see what they can do with it, although I think it would just cost me lots of money with no results.

So here's the results of my dyno run this morning. Not exactly what I hoped for, but not too shabby. I have plenty of Torque, close to 400 ft/lbs, but I was hoping for 400 hp as well. I still have a stumble under load that's really causing me a lot of frustration. Every time I think I have it solved, it's not. Since I don't know what the problem is I don't know if it's affecting my numbers, but it sure does affect driving it on the street.

In short, yes. You can go with a fuel cell or possibly swap a gas tank from some other vehicle that will allow you to route the exhaust where you want. My gas tank is a nylon unit from a 2001 Trans Am and it allows my to run duals with the exhaust exiting on either side of the tank. HybridZ member Dan Juday used a small tank from a Suzuki and has his exhaust exiting out the center.

If I remember correctly the front bumper is from a Honda S2000.

If I'm understanding this correctly, if you only have a two wire system and supply power at all time on the sense wire, you can burn up the voltage regulator.http://www.alternatorparts.com/FAQ.htm#how%20to%20wire If you have a three wire system, then you can wire one to the light and one directly to the battery.

I think the 280Z and 260Z work the same as the 240Z. The lenses are held on with a type of adhesive. You need to carefully pry them apart and it works easier if you soak it first in hot water to help soften up the glue/sealant. Take your time so that you don't crack or break the lense.

LIke I stated in my post above, you hook it to an ignition hot from your existing wiring system. Whether you use a light or not is up to you, but either way that's how it detects load.

You remove the original coils and the lower spring perches and then install a new threaded lower perch for the more standard 2.5" springs. There are several sources including Modern Motorsports and MSA http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=12 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC01 Depending on how much you change your height you may need to purchase different length struts as well. Search and you will find a lot of information regarding changing your ride height, although most people are looking at lowering it.

No, and I'm not sure how long it will take to get them. The last I heard was late this month or early next month, but deadlines have a tendency to slip...

I have mine connected to the ground side of a charge light with the positive side of the light connected to ignition hot. This way the light gives you an indication if it's charging or not. When the ignition is on (but the engine isn't running) the alternator light is on because the alternator grounds the sense wire. When the car starts the sense wire switches to positive and senses load while the light goes out since it is detecting two positives.

You can buy adjustable coilovers from several sources and set the ride height where you want; but I think you need to raise your exhaust higher instead of the raising the whole car. Here's a link to pic's of my dual exhaust done by John Coffey at BetaMotorsports http://mysite.verizon.net/ress1lhb/barts570z/id14.html

Kim just replied and told me that my order for 17 x 8.5's will be made with 73mm hub bore. I'm thinking that when I get my order and install them this group buy will get more people to sign up.

BTW, what is the hub bore requirement for our cars? Kim from Rota thinks we only need 67.1 mm, but based on info I've found on this site I thought we needed 73 mm. Edit: well it seems like John gave a pretty definitive answer here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119851

I think my problem is mostly or completely resolved! I only drove it for a very short distance the other night when I thought I still had the problem, but I took it out for a longer drive last night after I changed the oil and filter and it seemed much better. The problem was almost nonexistent especially after I put together a couple of full throttle runs. Maybe the PCM had to go back in learning mode after all the problems were resolved. I think there were mutliple issues as the problem became less severe after the iginiton wires and then seemed to go away after installing a new MAP sensor and connector. I think the EGR is disabled because the 'EGR Enable, Min RPM' and the 'EGR Enable, Max RPM' are both set to 6375 RPM, but I haven't found a setting that would turn the CCP off. I'll put some more miles on her this weekend and see how it does.

Looking good! So what are the spec's on your wheels? I'm looking at getting 17 x 8.5's to replace the Konig Theory 17 x 7's and adapters that I'm running now.

Thanks for the info Guy. After doing some more searching it appears that MMS Honda wheel adapters for the ZX are approximately 1.5" thick and the Honda wheel adapters for the Z are approximately 1" thick. I guess that's why the ZX adapters are a little more expensive than the Z one's. It does look like you have more room to play with as well and that you could easily fit in a wider tire if you wanted too. Finding the right wheels and tires is quite a process for our cars, but it looks like you found a good combination for your car. I hope to have a new set for my car soon as well.

Yes this is an old thread, but it sounded just like the problem I'm experiencing; one side being rich the other being lean. Anyway I verified my O2 sensors are wired correctly, so unfortunately I'm still looking for a solution for my problem.

So I made another recording last night, and I don't have any codes whatsoever...but I still have the problem. It seems to not be as severe, but it's there nonetheless. The EGR and canister values are still jumping around, so I need to figure out how to turn that off if possible, but I don't know if this can have anything to do with my problem. When I have the problem I'm still seeing one bank going lean while the other goes rich. This seems to be the key, but I haven't figured out why and what I can do about it. Guy, Thanks for looking at the datafile for me, I think we're both seeing the same thing. The O2 sensors are mounted horizontally, one at 3:00 and one at 9:00.

Due to clearance problems I never wound up hooking mine up either. I haven't accidently hit reverse yet...knock on wood.