Bartman

A nice look to be sure, but it definitely puts a dent in your ground clearance.

I still need to fine tune and determine if there are rub spots in the wheel travel range. The spring is still off, but I maxed out my jack when I took the pictures last night. So I'm going to raise the wheel until it makes contact and see if that would be within the normal range of my wheel travel. I also need to determine my camber angle and toe in as this will also impact the wheel placement within the fender wells.

I would think you probably do have air locked in your system. The drivers side head is the correct location for the gauge sending unit, but I've read about people using the location that the PCM uses for both the gauge and the PCM. I believe the factory made this modification in later year LT1 engines.

I was able to cut away part of my brake caliper bracket and remove the stock studs. I installed the new 50mm studs and used flat washers to set the wheel where I wanted it. I also rolled my fenders the old fashioned way using a bat instead of an Eastwood fender roller and I'm very happy with the results. So here are the pic's:

The short answer is yes, they will fit. Of course it all depends on what size you're looking at, whether you have coil overs or not, whether you're willing to roll your fenders or not, willing to get special adapters/spacers, etc. 80LT1 has them on his ZX and a6t8vw has them on his Z.

Here's what I wound up purchasing.http://www.ichibausa.com/ni12exstsh50.html According to what I've been able to find there are two different wheel studs used on all Nissan's and they differ in the knurl. One's that fit: *300ZX 1990-1996 - front axle*, *240SX 1995-1998 - front axle* *Sentra 1991-1999* *Sentra 2000-2004* *Altima 2002-2004* *350Z* *Nissans with solid rear axle* One's that fit all others.

Thanks for the pic Dragonfly. My brake caliper bracket goes all the way around the hub, but as Jon mentioned I can grind the bracket enough to allow access for installing the longer studs. I cancelled the order for the 15 mm spacer with the studs attached and placed a new order for longer studs, and I already have open ended lug nuts. Once the new studs arrive I can remove old one's, install the new one's, and play around with spacer thicknesses. I'll keep the spring off and use washers to determine the optimal thickness of spacer that will allow clearance throughout the wheels travel range.

I don't know exactly how they do it, but it looks like the nuts are conical. Of course, even though they exist they are nowhere to be found in stock. It will take till at least the end of August...or later to get them. It would be pretty straightforward to use a spacer, but then I need to figure out how to source and install the longer studs. There's enough room to remove the stock length one's, but there isn't enough room to fit the longer one's. I've been looking through old posts about drilling the back plate on drum setups, but mine is a 280ZX disc conversion and I don't know if it will work the same. I'll have to look again when I get home, but I recall some substantial metal in the way. The caliper brackets are 4 lug, so the stub axles must have been removed to install them.

I found some spacers with new studs attached that come in 15mm thickness, so I ordered up a set from ProjectNissan.com http://www.mackinindustries.com/wm/kics/widethreadspacer.html Stay tuned...

I bought them from HybridZ member tim240Z. As far as I know he custom made them and they are the only set he ever made.

I'm currently running an adapter to 4x100, but the wheel is also drilled for the stock 4x114.3. So it looks like I could use a 5/8" to 3/4" thick spacer. I can't shim it with washers to check because the stock studs are too short. It would be easier to use an adapter, but I can't find them less than 1" thick. I'm just going to have to install longer studs and then confirm the width of spacer needed.

My ST bars arrived on Friday and I'm starting the installation. The rear is very close to the outer CVs. Maybe shortening the end link will give me the room I need. So I can shorten the spacer and just get a shorter bolt? How short can the spacer be and what grade hardware do I need for the replacement?

Well it looks like it's going to work after all. Here's pic's with the 275/35R18 Azenis tire installed and trial fit on the car. They're still pushed out a little too far, but I've got plenty of room on the inside. My adapters are a little over an inch wide, so I probably need to get them somewhere around 3/4" to 7/8" wide. I don't have any springs installed so that I can check clearance throughout the wheel travel, and I found out that I had an issue with the ZX caliper hitting the brake line! I'm making adjustments to ensure this will not be an issue in the future.

Thanks for the link, that looks like just what I was looking for. Thaks Jon, thats the kind of info that makes this site so valuable. I removed the 10" springs and they are 250, so maybe 275 or even 300 would be the way to go. I'm also installing the bad dog rails and the ST sway bar set while I'm at it.

I need to switch to 8" springs on the back of my car for additional wheel and tire clearance. I'm thinking of going with 250 lb/in. Where's a good source to purchase these springs? I've searched, but I haven't found a source with springs in this length.

Man, that really is sexxxy! I wish I wouldn't have opened this thread, now I have a severe case of intake envy. Do you have any pic's of a working system installed complete with fuel rail, air filters, etc?

I think the -15 offset may push it out a little too far for stock rears, but the subtle rear fenders will probably give you too much. You could then fill the subtle fenders with spacers if you wanted. The wheels aren't really that wide, but they are pushed out quite a bit. I would wait until you get them, try them on the rear and see where your at. You may be able to get by with just rolling the rear fenders.