Bartman

You must be joking.

Guy, Backspace is generally given in inches and offset in millimeters. Here's a chart that will help determine backspace from offset and vice versa: Of course there may be differences between my 240Z and your ZX, but based on what John Coffey posted on another thread an 8.5" wide wheel needs about 5" of backspace. Either there are problems with the chart or problems with your math. The 40 mm adapter and 42 mm offset give you a net offset of around 2 mm. According to the chart this would equate to a backspace of around 4". You came up this 90 mm which is closer to 3.5". BTW - I looked at my MM adapters this morning and they are closer to 25.4 mm (1") than 40 mm. Are your's custom, or are they different for a ZX?

I've been looking at going wider as well. Isn't the adaper width subtracted from the wheel width to give you the net offset? 40 mm thick adapter - 42 mm offset = -2 net offset.

Looks great! On a different note, I sent you a PM about your wheels.

Austin, those are all good powerplants, but very different. Be sure to get what you really want as opposed to what becomes available. If deep down you really want X, and get Y because you got a good deal on it you''ll regret it down the line. I think Clifton has a high horsepower 2JZ and is switching to LSx power, so you might want to ask him why he's switching. If possible it's good to talk with owners of each of these powerplants built up to the way you would run it and see what they have to say. Whatever you choose, I'm sure you'll do a great job on it and it will be kick-*ss!.

Thanks for this info, but it sounds like 8.5" will work better than 9". I've been trying to find the wieght of the Rota D2 17 x 8.5, and it looks like they weigh 19lbs each. Not too bad for the size. Based on this graph it looks like that would equate to somewhere around a 6 mm offset. It may vary, but that at least gives me a ballpark estimate. The Rota RB's should be out soon and they may have the proper offset, size and weight at a resonable price. http://www.rotawheel.com/rb1.htm

Thanks for posting those Kodiak's, but that's too rich for my blood. So, based on being able to buy just about any size you want, which is what Kodiak seems to offer, is 17 x 8.5 all the way around the best size to get? I'm talking about a setup with coilovers and fitting under stock fenders for street and autocross purposes. Would a staggered setup help, or for autocross do you want the same size all the way around? BTW - What is the offset on those Kodiak's and does it require 8" springs on the back?

In the constant search for bigger, wider, lighter, cheaper rims for our Z's I came upon this site: http://urbanimport.com/wheels_tires_rota_d2.htm They have several possiblities that seem like they could work on our 4 x 114.3 bolt pattern. Personally I'd like to fit the biggest rims that would work with coilovers under stock fenders...but I'm not opposed to rolling the lips a little. I'd also like a nice offset that would require narrow or even no spacer whatsoever. So for 17's they have a package that includes (2) 17 x7.5's for the front and (2) 17 x 8.5's for the back with 20mm offset for $670 shipped. Of course you could go with (4) 17 x 7.5's or (4) 17 x 8.5's as well. I think most people think that 18's are too large for our Z's, but If you want to step up to 18's they have (2) 18 x 8's and (2) 18 x 9's for $850 shipped with a 25mm offset. You could also get (4) 18 x 8's or (4) 18x9's. I don't know the weights of these wheels, but the price seems pretty decent.

I can't believe another year has passed, and it's still not painted! I keep getting sidetracked with other stuff, but hopefully it will happen soon.

Give them a call...they don't have everything listed on their web site.

Guy's it looks like it's made in one piece, but it's not wide enough to fit. If I understood correctly from what aziza z posted earlier, it installs using the stock center piece.

Thanks for the good wishes guys! I'm definitely another year older...but I'm not so sure about being wiser.

Thanks for posting up the pic's and info wheelman. Do your stock seat belts have retractors? If not, would the setup work with them as well?

Just to let you know, someone at ClassicZcar has been making them as well. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20862

Action shot of my car taken last Sunday during my first AutoX by HybridZ member David K

The long term counts are off when the problem occurs, but not as far off as the short term counts. I just replaced the O2 sensors, but they are quite a distance down stream. Since their heated it shouldn't be a problem, but I still wonder if I should move them closer to the header. If I unplug the O2s, how do I reset the fuel trim? Then I can make a test run with them disconnected?

Thanks for all the info. I was really curious about the best way to run the wiring. So I should make a straight shot to the battery from the alternator, then run another wire to the distribution block, and then connect the fuse blocks to the distribution block. The distribution block I posted is generally used for multiple amps for a car stereo, but does it make sense for my installation? I'm going to trace all my wiring and label it (like I should have done initially) to figure out why I have so many wires going to my distribution block. Is using a distribution block unusual? edit: Here's a link to the insulated terminal block I was using: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml In fact I wired it up just the way it is decribed on that web page. A couple of the wires were fried right at the connection to the terminal block so that's why I'm trying to figure out what the problem was and the best way to fix it.

I have multiple items on my installation that require power. Several items recommend connecting them directly to the battery, but I don't want a bunch of extra wires running all the way to my battery (relocated behind the passenger seat) so I installed an insulated terminal block where the stock batery used to sit. Well the one I installed diidn't work very well and I'm looking at getting something else. So what are you guys using? This unit would connect the alternator to the battery as well as provide power to several other items such as fuse blocks. Maybe something like this would work good http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-GOLD-POWER-DISTRIBUTION-BLOCK-FOR-CAR-STEREO-AMPS_W0QQitemZ180125807522QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180125807522 ?

My problem only occurs after the car is warmed up and in closed loop. It happens at low RPM's when you give it a small amount of gas. If you hit the gas hard enough, there isn't any problem. I just ran it at an Autocross event yesterday without any problems (since I'm constantly on the throttle fairly hard). The most confusing thing to me is the difference between the left bank and the right bank in my data recordings. I still need to check and resolve the MAP Sensor errors, 33 previously and now 34. The data in my signature is current.

I thought I would be ready for paint a long time ago; but it looks like it will be quite a while yet before I'm ready. I won't do it until I know I can get it done right. Sounds great VAN, I'm looking forward to seeing your "Orange Crate". I also really like LaValle style flames, and I was thinking of going that route for a while before we decided to go the shark route (me and my family). Anyway I'll check in with you before I start the paint job.