Bartman

I filed claims with PayPal, and they show all three as resolved in my favor. Let's see how long it takes to get my money back.

It works great! No more excuses for not searching.

Someone got access to my PayPal Account and made charges of $288, $77.90 and $60. I guess it happened yesterday and I found it this morning while checking my bank accounts. They show up as pending with my bank, so I called them to try and get them to not pay; but they told me that they pay electronic transfers right away even though they show as pending for a while. PayPal was down for a while, but when it came back up I had to answer additional questions and my account has limited access now. It looks like they paid the three questionable transactions, but then reversed them and are now holding the funds. Hopefully there's no connection, but the last legitimate payment i made through PayPal was a donation to HybridZ.

I like it. I just bought an 07 Altima last weekend and it's a really nice car. It comes with a couple of proximity detectors (looks similar to a regular keyless remote with buttons for locking, trunk, etc.) that allow you to just push a button on the door to enter the car, then you put your foot on the brake and hit the start/stop button to start the car. My wife just keeps the fob in her purse and never needs to take it out. When she lets me drive it, I just put the other fob in my pocket.

Sounds cool, but I'm a little ignorant about this stuff. How do they get into your pond and how would the eggs get to the ocean? Is your pond connected to the ocean?

So I was able to find all the information like guy posted in my FSM. I went through all the tests and couldn't find any problems, so I went ahead and put everything back together and made another DataMaster recording. The 16 error went away and the 33 error code changed to a 34! I tried it a couple of times to make sure and the 16 never came back, but I always got the 34. Maybe a bad connection where I neeed to disconnect to run the tests. I'm thinking of replacing the MAP Sensor to see if that takes care of the 34 error. The FSM talks about comparing values to those of another car and using a vacuum pump, so it just seems easier to replace it. Regardless, I still have the stumbling problem. I can pretty much make it happen at will by giving it a small amount of throttle when the engine is running at low RPMs, so maybe this is a load related issue. I just checked my plugs and gaps last week and everything seems to be fine (I gapped them at .045). Maybe I have a problem with my ignition wires. I'm running them underneath to make for a cleaner look, and maybe that's causing a problem somewhere. My O2 sensors are quite a way down my exhaust, maybe that could be a problem as well. I'm not sure what the problem is at this point, so any suggestions would be appreciated. When the problem is occuring it actually goes into open loop for very small intervals, the BPW mS jumps around and the short term counts for the left and right side are completely out of whack...the right side goes up while the left side goes down. The problem area is between 335 and 399 seconds in the DataMaster file and it goes into open loop at least four times during this interval.

Sounds like the driver's school is a good event to attend. A friend of mine had the flat spotted tire problem and it sounds exactly how you describe. Hope it something that simple and not a bigger problem. Guy, thanks for posting all the information. I have the FSM and should be able to find it all myself, but I guess I haven't figured out how to use it properly. According to the info you posted, my problem must be intermittent because the engine starts. I'll try and run some more tests tonight.

I will definitely check my wiring tonight. The Auto-X practice session I wanted to attend was full, but I'm signed up for a different one this Sunday. I'd like to figure out this problem first, but I'm going even if the problem isn't resolved.

So after some investigation I've discovered a couple of items of interest. First, the MAP KPa is captured in my datafile and it is a little high; but that may be because of my cam and therefore a non-issue (if this is true, then I can just ignore the 33 error). The 16 error code is still a potential problem that has to do with the Opti not providing the the PCM with the low resolution pulse it expects to be seeing (I just replaced the Opti not to long ago). I will double check my Opti wiring to see if that is the culprit for this issue. The most interesting thing I've found is that when the problem is occuring the left short term counts are low and the right short term counts are high. The O2 sensors are fairly new as well, so I don't know what could be causing this problem. I don't think they are reversed, but I will double check that as well.

I have heated O2 sensors and I believe they are narrowband, so the placement of my sensors doesn't sound like it should be causing me any problems. Thanks for the info Xander.

I'm trying to debug some engine problems I've been experiencing and I'm wondering about my O2 Sensor installation locations. How important is to have them installed as close to the engine as possible? I have short block hugger headers, so they could be installed just below them, but they are currently installed farther back on the exhaust around the transmission area. I recently replaced my O2 Sensors, but based on my latest recording the short tems counts are still varying quite a bit.

Your fender vents look great too. Are they functional? Mine aren't yet, but based on the windtunnel results I'm thinking of blocking off the extra space behind the front wheel openings and adding openings in the engine bay to make them functional.

Congrat's on getting her going and getting your first drive in such a short time. First drives are great, and it sounds like your problems are pretty minor. Good job!

So my car runs pretty good most of the time, but it stumbles sometimes at low RPM's. If you give it a little more gas it eventually get's beyond the probem, and takes off. I've been trying to find vacuum leaks, and I found one and fixed it (still have the problem). I checked all my plugs and regapped them and they all seem fine, so I finally made a recording with DataMaster to see if something shows up. I put the file on PutFile at http://putstuff.putfile.com/82934/6587804 I haven't researched it too much yet, but I have a couple of error codes even though my SES light is not on, MALF 16 - Lo-res fail and MALF 33 - MAP high. My fuel Trim cells are varying a lot and the EGR DC fluctuates sometimes and the CCP DC fluctuates a lot. I don't have an EGR and I don't have a charcoal canister on my install, so maybe these aren't turned off on my computer and they should be. Any help would be appreciated, I will be doing some research as well.

Yes, my indicators are installed by drilling holes in the dash...not for the timid. I really like David's solution, but finding one of the pods he used is next to impossible.

Here's my latest test results. This is just with spay cans, but it gives me a general idea of how it will look. I'm liking it, and this is petty close to how I want the fade to look. The surface is not perfect, remember this is just a simple test.

Here's a pic that has my turn signal and bright indicators

I've heard that Schroth makes 3-point harnesses that fit in our Z's in the past, but I can't find them listed on their web site. If you go with a 4-point, is there any way to install them without using a roll bar?

Let me make this very clear, run whatever batery you want. Do your own investigation and make your own determination of what works best for your specific requirements. Here's some info from the Optima site: Lasts up to 2 times longer than other batteries. More power in the initial 1, 3, 5, and 10 seconds of the starting process than comparably rated conventional lead acid batteries. Constant performance quality keeping your battery running at the same level even as it's being discharged. Ideal for seasonal use, fully charged, it can sit unused for up to 12 months at room temperature (or below) and still start a car. 15 times more resistant to vibration than other batteries. Nonspillable and can mount in almost any position. If it does indeed last 2 times longer, than that helps justify the price difference. I started with a regular battery followed by an Odyssey (the small one), and then the Optima. My experience is that the Optima makes my engine start quicker and easier then the other batteries I used. It also works well regardless of how long my car has been sitting. I don't sell Optima's and if you don't think you need it, by all means don't. No matter what comments are made regarding car shows are whatever else gets posted to this thread I will no longer respond. It's just a stupid battery, take the advice or don't; it really doesn't make any difference to me either way.

No, I'll have to try and get a picture of them for you.

The Autometer LED's are really expensive. I went with some that I got of eBay for about two bucks each and I think they are the same one's that Autometer sells for a lot more. I got a few small lights from Pep Boys that I installed in the dash between the Speedo and Tach for my brights and turn signals (you can't see them in the pic because it's dark and they're not lit). Hopefully I'm not over-posting the pic.

Pop, just get the battery you want. I'm not saying you or anyone else has to get an Optima, it is purely my recommendation. Your questions are obviously rhetorical and don't even deserve a response.

Did you check out the link I inserted in my previous post? It will answer all your questions regarding the benefits of an Optima battery. If you're happy with a cheap battery, be my guest and get one; you can use any 12 volt battery you want. If you want quality, then you have to pay for it. You could get by for many years with a cheap battery without any problems, but this is HybridZ and we generally discuss ways to improve our cars. I was at a Z car show the other day and one of the stock Z's was admiring my car. He called me over to show me something on his car...and you guessed it, it was his Optima battery. This guy was close to a purist, but he recognized that having an Optima was a good idea.