Slow78z

Those little Civics can be tricky. You'll pull up next to one and be like, "I got this no problem". Then after it whoops your a$$ your like, what the heck just happened. LOL It's not as painfull when you find out they are running 50 psi of boost, race gas, and nitrous to make it that fast.

Your car gets faster everytime you post a new thread. You'll be in the 9's in no time. Great video by the way.

Added a dyno and sound clip video to the first post.

A solid axle is the route I would like to end up going also. I believe it's the strongest most trouble free way to go for what I'll be doing with it. Cruising and drag racing.

It looks like Chequered Flag Racing has the adapters i need. Crisis overted.

Your right, they are little. The street is where I'm safest as far as hooking because it doesn't. It just blows the tires away. Brings a smile to my face every time. A plus though is that the U-joints are quite easy to change out. I just purchased a set of 300zxt axles from craigslist and was going to go that route but I just found out that Modern Motorsports is down. Ross passed back in June from cancer and a person named Joe seems to be trying to keep his business going. I've got an email into him so I'll know more on that later. Might have to have adapters made here in town. I like the cam and the lope. It's the Goldilocks cam, not to big and not to small. ha ha I have a few dyno vids that I'm going to upload to Youtube when I get home. I'll post the link then.

The Z and I had a pretty eventful day on Friday, 09-27-13. We did a little dyno tuning and was able to muster 328 rwhp and 312 rwtq. I was very short on time that day so we only got about 5 pulls in. It did gain about 10 rwhp from the baseline run with a little tweaking. It even surprisingly gained 3 whole hp with the cutout open! Next up was some more track time. My first run netted a 12.28 at 112 mph and it hooked realy good. Even with my skinny radials. They had ALOT of sticky sprayed down on the starting area. I didn't feel any wheel spin so I decided to give it all on the next run. Run 2 was not good. It pulled the best it's pulled yet for about 3 feet and then violently wheel hopped for another 10 feet and broke. ;( My drivers side inner u-joint kicked the bucket. Proof that the Phantom Grip works I guess. lol Here are a few pics even though most of you know what a broken U-joint looks like. Strapped down to the Dyno A little photo op with Heartland Park Topeka tower in the backgroud. Our rig with my broken junk on the trailer.

Thanks alainburon. Hopefully I'll be able to make it back to the track this season before they close for the winter. I work second shift so I have to burn a day of vacation to run. It is worth it though. I think I'll make it back one more time but I just need to source some stickies first. I think I might also see if I can get a little dyno tuning done also.

Finding Steel wheels is proving to be difficult. Quite a few FWD cars use the same bolt pattern but the back spacing is wrong. I'll have to check out Diamond racing and see what they have.

That's some very usefull info. Thanks. I might try and find some cheapie steel wheels that I can mount some slicks onto for now. More parts hunting! woo hoo

It's a tough decision. Alot of people seem to like the TH400 with trans brake. That could be another alternative. I think those setups use a reverse shift pattern and manual valve body so you have to do all the shifting. Your right about it being an addiction. I usually have to buy atleast a few parts a month or I go into withdraws. It's not pretty, just ask my wife. lol

I use HP Tuners for tuning. I'm a novice tuner at the moment but its getting easier. Here's a little list of what I've spent transmission wise: Used 4L60E $400 Used vigilante Stall $500 Used B&M Prostick $100 Shift kit $75 New A and B shift solenoids $40 A friend of mine put a trans brake on his 4L60E and it works great, with street tires anyways. He hasn't launched on stickies yet because of no trans blanket. It's recommended to use a trans blanket or shield to catch potential tranny carnage if using slicks. I cannot remember the company that sells the brake but I can find out if you'd like. If you get that Z I'd love to see pics of the rear setup. I'm contemplating a different stronger setup. IRS or Solid? Decisions decisions.

I bet it probably would but it would be wise to do some research. I purchased this unit from the parts for sale section on this site so I didn't deal directly with Phantom Grip. I will say there customer support is non existant. I left several messages and e-mails and didn't get one reply. But there is someone working at that business because I got put on the Phantom Grip junk email list. lol Racing with the tranny is a breeze. I just point and shoot. I have it set up to shift at 6800 RPM so I just run it in drive. As I roll thru the 1/4 mile it's in 3rd grear running about 6100 RPM. The tires are just the stock size of 195/70R 14s on steel wheels for now. They don't hook at all from a dig so I have to pedal it a little at launch. After that it's on the floor till the end. You can tell my launches need work with a 60' of 1.9 to 2.2 but better tires would help. My 12.32 run said the 1/8 was at 7.93. As far as the tranny goes it's from a 2001 f-body with 110K miles. It's got the mods you mentioned above and a transgo shift kit. I have turned off all torque management that the factory puts in the tune to soften the shifts. It shifts nice and firm.

Thanks, the Phantom Grip works great. It always locks when I get into it. It's surprising how well it works for being just two blocks of metal and 4 little springs.

I finally got the 5.3 and 4l60E swapped in after about 2 1/2 years of collecting parts. I have obtained alot of useful information and parts from this website so I thought I would share my experience with the forum. If you have any questions about the Z or ideas on how to do something better please post it. I hope you guys enjoy! This is how it started for me. About 4 years ago I was watching a video on Youtube of a LS swapped Z car and thought, that looks like fun. So here I am. I purchased the car from a gentleman in Colorado that had previously bought it from California. It was his "backup Z" incase his was wrecked or stolen. He decided to liquidate so that's when I swooped in and got it for a mere $2,000. It was a great deal. An all original Z car with very minimal rust and 85k miles. I trailered the car home and I immediately started in on the L28 engine and getting it running. I'm sure it sat for about 22 years from what I could tell because it still had a 1986 California liscense tag on it. The goo in the gas tank was not easy to clean. Within 2 weeks it was running and I was driving everywhere. Then the parts collecting started for the swap. I'm more of a picture and video kind of person so I'll keep the story time short and start in on the specs and pics. All custom components were made and installed by myself except the exhaust,fan shroud and JCI swap parts. Engine: 5.3 LM7 from a 2001 Avalanche Current Performance Fuse/Relay box Texas speed 224R camshaft .581 .581 lift, 224 224 duration, 112 lobe sep F-body oil pan and front accesories. LS6 intake and injectors Heat sink ignition coils Bosch 044 fuel pump with Corvette fpr/filter Sanderson shorty headers exhaust 2, 2 1/2" pipe from headers going into a single 3" with magnaflow muffler. Electric cutout after the Y JCI swap kit Trans: 4L60E Transgo shift kit 3200 Vigilante stall converter B&M Prostick shifter Diff: R200 with stock axles, 3.54 ratio Phantom Grip limited slip unit Weight: 2860lbs with 1/2 tank and all spare tire essentials 1/4 Best so far with stock 14" pizza cutter tires is: 12.32 at 112mph Sept 6, 2013 12.28 at 112mph Sept 27, 2013 11.90 at 115mph Oct 11, 2013 M/T slicks 11.74 at 115mph Oct 25, 2013 The ride when it made it to it's new home Engine bay cleaning and paint Engine ECM wiring and integrating the Current Performance fuse/relay box ECM brackets Maxi fuse setup I used to get rid of fusable links. mounted under ac/heater blower Transmission (4L60E) with 3200 stall 1997 Honda Odyssey brake light switch (left) needed for the automatic lockup solenoid. The factory switch (right) only has a NC contact and I need both NC and NO contacts B&M Prostick Fuel pump setup. Mounted on stock rubber isolated mount and then relocated behind diff 3/8 Aluminum Fuel line running in factory brackets all the way up to the drivers side of engine Installing Phantom Grip in diff Custom made coil brackets, 5.3 truck brackets set coils to high and interfered with fuel line Custom made battery bracket Aluminum sheet metal fan shroud and Zirgo cooling fan T I made to run the steam vent lines to External trans cooler in addition to radiator trans cooler and lines Air intake setup. Two 3.5" mandrel bent aluminum 90s and a few rubber couplers with 85mm MAF. K&N 4" filter Exhaust As she sets now. Sept. 16, 2013 Track time! My Z sitting between two heavy weights. It looks like a go cart in comparison. Link to some videos; Walk around http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYIVVa7ghPw Trans testing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRIn6NH2S5w Dyno run https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0E18f-T0MQ Sound clip http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDd6sj8DLdI

The fuses are easy to get to. I think i'll need to make a cover to go over them because they sit low enough to get kicked by a passenger with big feet. I don't think it matters what order you go for power distribution. Just as long as you have a good sized wire going from the batt to the starter to cover the amp draw while cranking.

I second that.

Sounds about right. I used a couple maxi fuse blocks I purchased from Walmart to feed power back to the original z fuse block. Since I like to keep the engine compartment looking clean, both fuse blocks are mounted to a bracket that was fabed to fit behind the heating and air fan housing lower mounts.

Most scammers don't leave phone numbers to call. I would definately check that out!

I used Current Performance's fuse/relay block and integrated it into the LS1 harness. They have a very easy to understand instruction manual and the wiring matches the colors of the LS1 harness. All necessary relays and fuses are included. While customizing the harness I used a piece of plywood on sawhorses for a table. It helped out quite a bit so as to not get wiring overload. Dos XX also helped. lol. The ECM is mounted behind the glove box and the length of the factory wiring is perfect.

Sweet engine. That water pump pulley is in a funny location though. I'm sure they have there reasons.

I like the middle one because the H looks like a circuit board if you look close.

Great job Sunny Z! She looks great. If you take a trip to Topeka hit me up. I'd like to see your Z in person.

It's amazing how a different metal can make headers so much more appealing. I almost wish I wasn't going turbo. (almost)

Those look very similar to Centerline wheels.