wal280z

Check into http://carfiche.com for the service manual for your car. Check the FAQ on that site for details.

FWIW - Well, i finally got to mine today. The brake light has been lit since I got the car over a year ago, finally got around to checking it out electrically why the darn thing was still lit. I changed out the brake relay (up under the passenger seat) with one that was good (when the other car was taken apart +4 years ago), and still, nothing. Wiggled the connector (it was slightly toasted on the female side, mental note to clean contacts), so i tapped the relay with a screwdriver and, like magic, the brake light extinguished. Took the relay apart that was in the car, and one of the leads to the winding was toast, never allowing the contacts to open. Now I can go ahead and look into updating the relay. if that's a go, I'll post some good news later. And please, nobody hold their breath.....

Please clarify: you are in need of the harness containing the fuse block, has the leads going to the rear of the car, installs on the cabin side of the firewall behind the heater box and NOT the one coming into the engine bay with the fusible links. Or, do you need BOTH?

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Open the pdf file for your year car- it should be a red wire feeding both R & L headlights. Are you saying it is hot on one and not the other? Are you sure you are on the supply side and not the fused side? (The inner column of the fuse box should be the supply)

Glad to see you got it fixed. My problem was that the "T" was clogged. I took a spare valve apart and found the valve full of debris (no wonder it was on a totalled Z in the JY)[edit: debris = caked crud]. If you are like me (and have S*** laying all over the place) don't attempt this w/o a spare or ready to dish out the extra $$. Don't know if this was the problem as I havent' gotten the goat out of the garage yet. But, at least it's clean, right (will I ever get this one on the track?) Wayne

I haven't studied it throughly, but I do know if you remove it from the mounting plate and hold on to it when you start the car you get 'tickled'. I posted the '78 FSM wiring diagram a while ago - http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96990 look for post #13. Wayne

Sure do... One source (online only) would be http://store.yahoo.com/eagleday/index.html At the top left, click on "Product Menu", next screen bottom right click on "Electrical Parts and Tools", next screen click on "Blade Connectors". Note: The 8mm is for the FI fusible link, the 6.3mm is for the rest of the car. Remember the regular crimp tool won't do the oem style crimp. Eagleday does sell the tool, but I found the same tool at PepBoys for $18.99. Also, look through the other areas of the website. New bullet connectors with the sleeves! On another note, if you have a major electronics distributor in your area, AMP p/n for one of them is 60701-1 (not sure if it is the male or female). I lost the bag for the other one. Wayne

Joe- I just uploaded a pic to my gallery. I apoligize in advance for the lighting, however, the flash kept whiting out the face of the guage. Is that what you are looking for? Wayne

Maybe I'm not understanding your post, but that's how they came from the factory. Temp/Oil and Volt/Fuel. Not sure on the ZX ones though. You could swap out the temp for a volt and vice-versa, as each guage is a separate movement, only sharing the backlight and common housing. FWIW, be aware that the 280's had the 'idiot light' built into the voltmeter. I'll try and find my camera to take a pic. Wayne

Yep, I was half asleep when I first read loy's response, I thought he stated "ZX" There are some differences both cosmetically and may have some differences in the actual wiring, although the '76 gauge and '77 gauge look identical to the wiring hookups, just different faces. It doesn't look that hard to change the faces, if necessary. Get a wiring diagram of what you are going to swap into, just to confirm. Wayne

Yeah, we have one of those here in Virginia... too bad the owner is crushing the cars like crazy! He would rather crush the car for the price of metal (what, 40 bucks) then to sell the shell as is for twice that.... his explanation - "I can get more money for that (fill in the blank)"... Ummm... you can't get ANY more money once it's crushed!!! As I understand it, the property where he is located has been rezoned to residential, so you know what that means.... hmm.. no option to add a pic guess I'll do the ol' fashioned way East Coast Z 543-6608 Wayne

Dragonfly- Did you scan the wiring diagram and use it as the background when tracing? an email is on the way. Do you mind if I converted it to a pdf format like I did with the '77 I posted? And, FWIW, Philip of the Atlantic Z club has the '75 through '78 posted on his website. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm **edit** the diagram posted on hybrid a while back is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95582 although I do recall seeing all from 70 to 73, each as it's own pic**end edit** Wayne

Get the real deal.... Post #13 of http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96990 Good luck, Wayne

only in a junkyard or from a donor that someone is parting out. Not sure where you are located but I did ask if our local one (East Coast Z in Chesapeake) had one, he said yes. His email address is zpartsman@-remove-for-spam-aol.com Not sure of his price, only the availability. FWIW - He is also clearing out a bunch of first and second generation shells. Wayne

Brian- Is your sending unit a 2 or 3 pole unit? Radio Shack, in the back of the stores they have thier brand of Mate-N-Lok connectors. Although I would prefer to use GrayZee's idea using the trailer connector (being weather resistant). Another possibility would be to adding a sheath to the wiring loom to cover the connector body, but that would kinda be stretching it. I can already hear the onlookers dismay ~::Hey dude, what's with the condom?:: I have used http://store.yahoo.com/eagleday/connectors.html to purchase the amp connector boots for the EFI connectors under the hood, they may have something that you could incorporate. They also have the japanese bullet connectors with sleeve. Good Luck! Wayne

Yes, super quick (and free) delivery! I plan on using them for the full rear quarter panel for my 1st gen. I'm pretty sure VB sells the TABCO panels. There's another place on the web that has very similar P/N to the TABCO parts, although I can't find it at the moment. Wayne

Do you have your old sending unit to compare it to? On my '77 sending unit, it kinda looks like a rivet. I'll post a pic if you want. A small screw (2-56 or maybe 4-40) might do the trick as long as you still have insulators available. So Nissan sold you a new sending unit that did not have the pigtail wiring on it? Please advise, as I was looking into ordering one, unless I figure out how to get the low fuel sending unit working again. Wayne

TABCO lists them as item numbers 174 58 L-R Wayne

Posted at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16332 Hope it helps. Wayne

wire, but I haven't used them for that. EagleDay also carries the AMP style connectors, boots and contacts used in the later FI cars. Click on "product menu', then 'electrical', and you'll find more than enough. Placed an order with them in January, got it within 2 weeks time. Picked up the connector bodies from the junkyard, and added their boots. Fits like a glove! Wayne

Does the wire have a rating on the insulation? i.e., temperature rating? Sometimes it is printed or even embossed on the insulation. I don't see any markings on the examples I have here. Personally, I wouldn't, but that's just me. I would go through the expense of having three different colors of insulation of those hook-ups to allow quicker troubleshooting later. Wayne

Seller's Description: You are looking at NISMO gas filler cap cover. Part No. 17251-RN010-US. Made in Japan. MSRP: $51.83 Brand new in box.!!! 100% Genuine NISMO parts. Made of aluminum and includes decals Snaps on to cover the plastic gas cap Will fit any NISSAN and INFINITI. CAUTION! - This cap does NOT fit well on the G35 / 350Z It is NOT a gas cap, only a cover for the PLASTIC gas caps used on late model NISSANS. So, go find a gas cap from a late model Nissan and compare it to your 240. Hope this helps. Wayne

East Coast Z Center, in Chesapeake VA should be able to help you out. Email at ZPartsMan@aol.com. Have you checked with you dealer? Not sure if those are NLA. Have you checked with anyone in the Maryland Z Club for excess parts? Good luck on your search. Wayne