Jason Jarvis

I THINK the round black object to the left of the filler is a sender in the ATL well cell pictured. In my experience (which is limited I'll admit), most fuel cells do not come with senders. Many of the "street" cells do though, like the one shown above, and the Summit one I have.... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D290215%2DSD If you don't mind cutting and drilling into your new cell, there are several kits out there for senders too. Jason

I'm very interested in this as well, maybe I should rephrase it, what injectors will fit in the manifold injector pocket on an L28 intake manifold ? I have seen the Diamond Star injectors in there, but if I remember correctly, you can clearly see the bottom o-ring, so they are not sealing -as intended- in the pocket. I'm not worried about the screw down injector clamps or the hose barb ends either, as I will be running a custom rail, but is there any injector I can use and not have to go the weld in / screw in pocket route ? On that topic, has anyone thought about producing a rail for the L28 manifold that has the more common Bosch / GM / Ford upper injector pockets ? I have been suprised by the rails that have been produced (not flaming here, just personal opinion) that still use the barb fittings (seriously limiting the injector choices) or the Diamond Star injector pockets, which are an uncommon size, limiting you again. You can get a set of Accell 35# injectors from Summit for like $200 for 6. I know these rails aren't hard to manufacture from the extruded stock, but if someone did all the measuring and machine work for one, I would probably buy it to avoid having to do it myself. Jason

There are 2 different yellows on current Mustangs, one has too much red in it and is too orange for me, but the other is a bright clean yellow that I really like. It's close to a VW/Audi color. It doesn't appear to have any green to me though. I painted a Fiero a nice bright yellow with a green tint once, if I remember correctly it was a 70's Porsche color, might want to check into that. Good luck ! Jason

That's what I was wondering, it has been hard for me to find any pictures of it, but here you are. My 78 is supposed to be (will be) 306 as well, I think my sticker calls it "Platinum Mist Metallic" Anybody know for sure if it's the same color, 75 and 78 ? Again, looks great, judging by the pictures, I'll be happy if mine turns out half as well. Jason

Looks great ! Is that the (an) original color, and if so, which code ? Jason

I originally thought Reaction was a little pricey too, but the 'glass and the service are top notch. If you like what John has, save some money and go for it, he is great to work with, and will let you make a deposit and do a "lay away" plan. Jason

It's a thin, light interior plywood, available at about any home improvement or contractor store. If you are concerned about building your car parts with wood, it also takes a coat of fiberglass cloth / mat and resin pretty well to waterproof and strengthen it. Jason

I think the manual says to pull the cold start valve, hold it in a jar and turn the car over with the fuel pump fuse / fuse link disconnected. I have just let it dump into the manifold many times, but I guess you shouldn't smoke around it ! Beyond that, how hard this job is is really a matter of how frozen the screws are, especially the ones holding the injectors to the manifold. Good luck ! Jason

The kit on e-bay is the Hollywood Motorsports kit, the one in the Z-Parts link above.... Jason

Welcome to my area of semi-expertise ! To my knowledge there is no one who is currently "does the conversion" that is, will do a turnkey car. John Washington at Reaction Research has his beautiful Velo Rossa conversion, and sells the kit (reinforcements and rear deck cap) that was originally marketed by Origin Design. Eric at Z Parts is selling the Hollywood Motorsports kit, that also includes frame reinforcements and a bond on cap. Hollywood used to do turn-key cars and sell the kits. There have been others in the past, Z Therapy (mostly known for SU carbs) did a convertible that used the rear hatch and surrounding areas to make the rear deck area. These were done as turn-keys and through how to videos. This was all under the previous owner, the current owners seem to only be interested in the carb side of the business, but they may still have videos. Courtesy Nissan also stocked them (the videos) at one time. Jason

I bought a set of YZ rear quarters from John a couple of months ago, excellent experience which I posted about here. Initially the price may seem high, but if you compare his parts to other automotive fiberglass out there, you get what you pay for. I also initially thought the crateing and shipping charges were going to be high, but shipping from AZ to NC for $100 isn't bad at all, and the crate was one of the nicest I have ever seen, we receive multiple thousand dollar parts in at work that aren't crated this well. Good luck, you can't go wrong dealing with Reaction.... Jason

Most everything I have seen in newer cars is bumper shocks / sheet metal bumper / Styrofoam / urethane bumper cover.... I bet the Styrofoam does a lot more than you think ! Jason

Hey Racer-X, we used to sell a LOT of this stuff when I worked in the parts/paint store. I know a lot of people had the same reaction as you did, tried on price, stayed on quality..... I found this web site, don't know what's up with the other.... http://www.indasausa.com Jason

I ordered one last week when I first saw it, just got an e-mail form NismoParts that they are obsolete and they could not find a stocking dealer..... Jason

First let me point out that I am a big fan of these, and I do think these are a great price, but with an "H4" conversion there are 2 parts. The housing that replaces the sealed beam type light, and the bulb itself. The quality of each makes a huge difference. H4 is just a bulb style, i.e. 9004, 9003, 9006. On that thread they are comparing these to "halogen" lights, most H4's you will find are halogen as far as I know. Also it looks in that picture that there may be some of the infamous dichroic blue bulbs in there, which in my opinion (and the opinion of medical science) actually reduce vision. Now with the replacement housing, you can go all the way and use H4 replacement style HID's too, but that is still several hundred dollars last time I looked. Anyway, I have seen both, a nice 7" round glass conversion housing and a good halogen bulb, and cheap plastic conversion housings and cheap (not price wise though) dichroic blue bulbs. The former is a dramatic improvement in lighting, the latter is not. One other thing, I am not saying all the plastic housings are cheap and poorly designed, there may be good plastic ones too.... MHO and experience, Jason

OK, thanks. One thing I learned the hard way, never apply SE primers to anything other than bare metal ! If you have fiberglass parts, don't waste the primer on them. In hindsite it's obvious, but if you are in a "primer the car" mentality with materials in the gun...... The reason I really like(d) the epoxy over SE is that you have the rustproof qualities of the SE, and the epoxy is moisture proof.

I knew someone more knowledgeable would speak up ! Thanks for the MAJOR correction. I do have a question on that though, I am obviously not familiar with this series of primer, but do you find that to be the rule, no epoxies over self etchings ? I have done it several times, with SW automotive and a second line brand. I think I remember at the time the recommended applications was SE, epoxy, sealer, base, clear, but my memory is pretty bad, and that was a few years back ! I do still have some parts that were SE'd then epoxied (not yet painted) and they have held up wonderfully, even stored outside under a tarp for a while... Jason

I am sure many on here are far more knowledgeable on this than I and will speak up, but I'll start.... On the primer, I see that the DP74LF is an epoxy primer, which I am a big fan of, on bare metal though, I like a self etching primer under it, better adhesion and built in zinc chromate corrosion protection. I like an epoxy over that because the self etchings usually are not moisture resistant on thier own, but epoxy usually is. As far as the color, there are different schools of thought, one is the tintable / same color primer / paint, so that the paint covers better. Others like different color primers, so you can see where you have sprayed better. I'm the latter, but I don't do much anymore. As far as application, yes, you need a gun. The primers you are talking about will not apply well at all any other way, and you will never get a smooth coat of paint over a brushed on primer job. Remember, house paint covers mistakes and blemishes, car paint doesn't.... As far as a gun, get a cheap gravity fed HVLP, they require less air, and make less overspray. I bought one at Lowes for like $50 on clearance, it sprays pretty well....... Good luck ! I'm sure if I am out of date or just flat wrong someone else will correct me, one other thing, you will probably want a sealer over that primer, so that's another coat to think about. Jason

I am trying to decide now what will be required to use the MSA Aerokit rear bumper with the YZ rears. Initially I think it will look pretty good. Just have to be sure, and decide how to modify to fit. I'm sure somebody has done it before, any pictures ? Jason

Any ideas on price ranges for some of the parts we are talking about ? I'm interested most in the taillight panel and splitter for the MSA aero kit. I know it is too early to set anything firm, but I think it needs to be discussed. I know for me it is a lot easier to say, "yeah, I'd buy that" than it is to actually write the check..... Jason

Jason, I hope you have, or will in the future, post some pictures of your 280YZ project. Are you going to use the 280YZ front end too? Is it going to be a street car or for the track? Matt I will, I'm afraid I don't have anything recent due to 1. a lack of actually doing anything, and 2. I lost my digital camera and have been spending money on car parts instead of electronics ! I am only using the YZ rear quarters at this point. The car will be primarily street, with shows and autocrosses thrown in for fun. There is no way it can be competitive in autocross due to some of the mods, but like I said, for fun.... I like what you did in your pic, with the Miata headlights and Viper driving lights, looks good. Have you looked into how well the contours would really fit for the Miata light mod ? Jason

Wow, if I skip a house payment..... Hmmm, how much do you get for plasma now ? That is nice, I still like the 280 style better, but I could probably get over it ! Jason

Exactly what I expected, and I would expect that it does fit..... I'm not doubting you, or saying the part is overpriced, just priced outside of my budget at the moment. I would love to see a pic of it though, if you have one. Jason