Jolane

I used a Beck Arnley timing kit in the L28 I rebuilt years ago. The quality was great. I don't remember how the chain marks were done, I am thinking though that there were dimples on te side of the chain. Anyways, I do not remember having to count links. I ordered the set from PepBoys. Joshua

Will the 96-Up Vortec's work with an earlier TBI intake? The 97 Vortec engine I have on my stand right now has Multi-Port inside the intake manifold. It is very different than a TBI setup. Also, will the exhaust manifolds be the same? I am just trying to bring up components that I would be worried about working, that's all. Joshua If you want to drive out here (NM) and pick it up, I have a 97 Vortec 5.7L I would sell cheap. It spun a rod bearing, so it does need to be rebuilt. I would guess it only needs the crank turned and new bearings, but I don't know for sure. Just a thought.

Sparks, Their may have been another problem with that Plymouth Grand Voyager. My brother was (decided to go back to school) a heavy line mechanic at a Chrysler dealership here and had a similar van come in with a broken flex plate. He replaced it, all was good, until about a month later, when it came back with another broken flex plate. Other mechanics also had similar problems with returning problems related to trannies. Ends up, Chrysler did NOT put the two alignment dowels in the block! Not an obvious problem, but once the dowels were put in, no returns. I guess a bunch of vans were like this. Whether it was a manufacturing mistake or design flaw, I don't know. I do know though that the dowels are very important! Maybe this is what happened to the van you are referring to? Joshua

Thanks 240Z2NV! That is a great idea about taping the mirror in place and testing! All I need now is a seat, seat brackets, mounts, etc... I guess mirror mounting is going to be put to the back of the line for now. Thanks Again, Joshua

240Z2NV, You mention moving the passenger mirror forward for better visibility. I will have to patch the holes in my doors anyways (they are 260 doors with different mirror mounting holes), so should I move both driver and passenger forward? I guess I don't quite understand why moving the passenger mirror forward will help, unless it is so the driver can see past the passenger. Thanks, Joshua

As for a right hand mirror to match the stock 240Z left hand, why not use a 240Z left hand on the right side? I was planning on doing this and did not see a reason why it would not work. I think the mirror part itself rotates completely around so the shape of the mirror is oriented correctly. Joshua I will be following this as well, and I would like to see mirror options also. I really like what Pete did with his Tercel (I think) mirrors.

Mine used to do that also...I would vote that it is most likely your ignition module, the black box on the side of the distributor. Mine was random, and very frustrating. Of course, check all your fuses, connections, etc first... Joshua

Nice truck. Do you know what belt drive system that is on the engine? Joshua

Do you have the stock type mounts in place? I know that some of the 4x4 guys break their tranny cases similar to yours when they build different tranny crossmembers and mounts. The reason is that the tranny mount needs to be able to rotate axially (roll axis). The engine mounts should stop that motion, and if the tranny is mounted more rigidly, the engine torque is working to twist the tranny case instead. Does this make sense? Are the engine mounts okay? Maybe one is bad and the engine tried to twist in yaw? Joshua

Thanks Savage. That does help a lot. I guess I was thinking more about a street car when referring to buckling. Out here in the desert, dirt seems to get into everything, that was why I mentioned it. Joshua

Does anyone use seals on their spherical rod ends? I saw some listed in a catalog once, but can't remember where now. Is dirt and wear a problem otherise without seals? Also, it seems that the TC rod end uses a bracket that mounts on the original TC mount? Does this bracket flex/come loose/etc? Would it be better to weld the brackets to the frame instead to avoid buckling under load? Is this ever a problem? Thanks, Joshua

Do you happen to know how their Chrome finished look? I was thinking about trying it for my bumpers. Do you know how any of it holds up to the elements, if used on a Daily Driver? Thanks, Joshua

I also have a Lincoln 110V mig. It works very well for what it is. When I buy a bigger machine though, it will most likely be a MM251. I just got a Dynasty 200DX (TIG) and a Spectrum 625 (Plasma Cutter), and like them very much. While I think Lincoln has good welders, I trust Miller's support much more. If you want another place to research (I don't know if you have looked yet at these two places), try http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard and http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard . There is a lot of good info at these two sites on all different kinds of welders. BTW, do you already have a gas bottle? You probably want to check on one of those also. They can be rather pricey. What about a good welding helmet? The Miller Big Window Elites get a good review. So do the Optrel Satellites. Personally, I use a Jackson Nexgen, which gets bad reviews. Finally, make sure to check the power requirement and make sure you have the power available to run these. Good Luck, Joshua EDIT: Oh, also ment to tell you that Cyberweld.com is a good place to get welders from. I know that the Miller's are usually free shipping. I have bought a bunch of stuff from them (my D200DX and Spect625 and NexGen) and had great service and speedy shipping. They do not carry Lincoln though. The price they list online is $1249.

Sorry, No the $160 was a complete bumper without the overriders. Joshua

I just saw a picture the other day of a Z with wink bumpers. It was someone on this site, but I can't remember who. As for rechroming, I just called last week and local place here wants $160 each. They will do any straightening that needs to be done also. Joshua

Thanks Zrossa! I have been looking for information on header design, it seems that most engine buildups though just choose a full length header and run with it. Obviously, this doesn't work for us. I will try to find the book you mentioned as well. Joshua EDIT: WOW, that is an expensive book!

My dad's 99 4x4 GMC Sierra Extended Cab with 5.3L gets 20-22 regularly, but the speed is a relatively constant 45-60 mph all the way (speed limits). This is with the 4L60 auto. Not too bad in my opinion, although I am sure if he stepped on it everywhere, it would go down. Does any think that the altitude would make a difference? We are 4500+ feet ASL, maybe the computer is compensating for the altitude (based on O2), so it just will use less gas, and have less power, at our altitude... Just a thought. Joshua

I like the overall idea. The only change I would make is the blue strip, I would look at red/orange instead, or a darker shade of the steel gray. Just a thought, otherwise I like the black hood look (read, not carbon fiber look). Joshua

Thanks Pete for the info on Ed's information pack. I think an order and some reading is called for. I really appreciate all your your feedback on this. Joshua

Pete, I posted elsewhere about my World Products Sportsman heads a few weeks back. I would rather not do business with them again. Dart would be an option though. I used the exact same crank for my 383, Scat 9000 with 6" rods, internally balanced... with H-Beam rods. The machine shop also mentioned how little they had to remove to get mine balanced also. They seemed to be rather suprised also. Joshua

Pete is very right about machining costs on a block. A new block does make a lot of sense. I wish I had gone this way instead with my buildup. As for World Products though, I do not want to do any business with them ever again. Maybe someone makes an equivalent block? I don't know what the GM Rocket block can be bored to. Also consider any additional parts you may want to use (and already own). The flywheel and harmonic balancer are different from the 350 to the 400 (internally versus externally balanced). If you have any of these items already, you may want to stick with that type of engine. Joshua

Well, actually at 60 MPH with a 26" tall tire, that is 775 RPM. I am not sure how important perfect balance is, but would assume that it could create a good vibration, in a place where you really don't want it. I would just make sure to check your runout after installation. BTW, the machining looks great! Nice Work on that! Joshua

Pete, I will admit that I am not up on exhaust manifold design theory. Thanks for taking the time to explain Ed H's theory (maybe it is proven?). I do though understand a bit about CFD, and from that perspective, the square arrangement does make sense. I am having a hard time though with how much of a difference it will make, even on an engine without mufflers. Maybe it is negligible. My gut says that it depends a lot on the port shapes as well. Maybe the D shaped ports help minimize backflow into the cylinder, so the "scavenging" effect is not so effective. This problem can also be looked at from a mass flow point of view. When the exhaust exits one of the adjacent tubes, the gas has some velocity. This should create a vacuum effect to the tubes around it. Maybe this has an effect also, but I wouldn't think that the tube length is so critical. Now scavenging, as I understand it, is based on wave theory. Basically, the sound waves travel up and down the pipes, creating pressure waves that help scavenge the exhaust. This supposedly does require more accurate tube lengths, matched lengths, etc. I think though that it also requires a completely matched system. On motorcycles, the length of the silencer and pipe are critical to HP, and can have a measurable effect (according to the pipe manufacturers anyways). This though is the system as a whole. Those pipes are fairly straight-through also without chambers. In the end, I am confused and would love to know just how much better a well designed header is over a block hugger. I am guessing the advantage is not worth the cost and effort on a street car with mufflers. Joshua

I also agree with Pete, especially if money is of any concern. I just wanted to add that you probably want a 2-bolt main if you are looking at a 400. Then convert that to 4 bolt using splayed caps. Otherwise, I believe the 4-bolt 400's are weaker and can crack where the outer bolts go in. I had a 400 4-bolt myself in a truck, never a problem, but it was also a truck motor, not a high performance beast. That should make finding a good 400 block easier also. With that said, I am using a 383. Easy to find a good block, great HP and torque, etc... Joshua

Pete, Did you happen to read that article about the LS7 engine, linked in another post? (I don't know how to link another post here, sorry) There is a picture of the hydro formed exhaust manifolds they are using. It is unique in that the collector is straight, not a square of four pipes. I think this might work well for a SBC hybrid. It would be narrower where it counts, between the engine and frame rails. What I am not sure of though is the mating part. The article says "From there, exhaust is routed by a smoothly-tapered extension into a "wide-mouth" catalytic converter. The design greatly reduces the engine's backpressure.". I am not sure exactly what this means. It almost seems like the four collect into the mating peice. If this is the case, I could see this working well to go around the oil filter and starter, just a single tapered piece maybe fabricated from two pieces of steel formed around a wooden buck. Just curious on your thought about this type of header? Joshua