Jolane

Ron, Is that a monoball assembly, like you can buy to replace rubber bushings in AFCO? If so, do you know what the difference is in thrust load from a regular spherical bearing insert? I would also like more details on your setup. Thanks, Joshua

I have also seen cases where insurance companies monitor forums for racing, including on a track, and use it against the person. I don't think it is a good idea either. On the other hand, you don't have to post in that section... Joshua

I think that is photoshopped. I have seen the picture of the dog before by itself, without cat. Joshua

I once got a ticket for accelerating too quickly. No, I did not spin my tires, nor was I speeding. There was a work truck loaded down with scaffeling next to me, so I wasn't racing either. Anyways, the cop was a jerk and gave me a ticket that made no sense. I ended up paying court fees and for driving school, for a ticket that was BS and not even a real finable offense. This was in a basically stock 280ZX N/A. They pretty much can do what they want to around here to. I get pissed about it, but was polite as can be. Some are A**holes, some are cool. Bummer you got the earlier. Just my experience, in case it helps with your decision. Joshua

AFCO does have the clevis' in their catalog. I looked last night. I am not sure though how good their online catalog is. Maybe give them a call, since they don't list dimensions for them either. Joshua

Yeah, I am not too sure about the Cobras. I went to lunch with a co-worker in his late 80's Porsche 944T, yeah, a 4 cylinder turbo. On the way back we ended up at a red light next to a Cobra. Both sides new the deal. He had only the driver, the 944 had two heavy weights (okay, not really heavy weights, but ~400# of D&P. Anyways, to my amazement, we had ~2 car lengths on him before everyone shut it down. We were at ~100 by that point. I know his 944T has had some work and is fast, but I was really expecting more from the Cobra. Glad it wasn't my car... Joshua

That is one of my future projects, after the Z and the Suburban. Yep, VW bug with turbo. They can be made to go VERY fast on the cheap (relative of course). Simple to work on, discounting fixing rust problems. Nice video! Joshua

I don't think that converting THAT LCA to adjustable is a good idea. It appears that it is bent where the ball joint attaches, so I think you are starting with something that is already problematic. Speaking of converting LCA's, I did mine last night. I came up with a different method from those I have seen here. It is not a turnbuckle style, I do have to unbolt the inner rod end to adjust. Anyways, everything was going great, I had both sides welded up and ground to look pretty, when I decided to screw the rod end into the threaded fitting. One would not go, okay, no problem, run a tap through. Probably shrunk after welding. Tried #2. It went in fine, until appearantly it cooled (it did not seem hot to the touch), and not the rod end is siezed in the fitting! There goes a rod end, gonna have to cut and drill it out, and run a tap through the hole. Just when it seems a little progress is being made... Joshua

That is awesome. Thank you! Joshua

Good Work! I understand the feeling completely, almost a relief sort of thing. I felt that way when I fired my 81 Chevy Truck using a custom built (my grad school project) DIS system running an 8051 microcontroller. Everything was custom built, and I wrote the softwarem machined the parts, etc. A bunch of work, but what a victorious feeling when it started, the first try no less! What are you asking for the 350 engine you now have left over? Did you rebuild the Vortec? If so, what non-stock things did you do to it? I am thinking of building the one I have for my 85 Suburban. Joshua

Quicker240 is right. Now that you said that, I remember that stupid thing. In case you don't know where the Air Bypass valve is, it is right behind the throttle body on the top of the intake manifold. It has a few different hoses going to it. Good Luck, Joshua

That should be enough power. 3 220V lines also sounds like a good thing. I have two right now in my garage and get annoyed when I have to unplug my TIG to run my Plasma Cutter (Air Compressor takes up the other one full time). Hopefully you are putting in 20A 110V circuits also, and not 15A. Definitely helps with a 110V MIG or chop saw. Again, very nice! Joshua

Jamie, I most likely will also being changing the stock T/C mount, thus the reason I asked. I have the same goal in mind, more room for exhaust (but for a V8). Thanks, Joshua

Cozy beat me to it. The Autozone site has a great selection of wiring diagrams on it. Otherwise, the Haynes manuals (covers 1970 -1978) seem to have wiring info for each year, just not very readable. My chilton's (70-88) appears to have the most info on wiring, and it is clear to read. Joshua

Yes, I think that there are a lot of connections around that area that could leak. Do you see the coolant shooting while the engine is running? All of those lines should be at the pressure of the radiator. I am not exactly sure what that is, but probably ~10psi. Joshua

Thanks Ed. The metal filler I am using is water proof. The other precaution I have read about is to heat the metal slightly, since moisture will condesate on cool metal. This will evaporate the moisture from the metal pores before applying filler. I have been using Lacquer thinner to wipe and clean the panels before filler. I also prep the metal with 80 grit by hand before applying filler. The test I am referring to (and can't find the link to) also tested other grits for each process (36, 80, 120,X) and noted that 80 grit held better than the 36, which I guess is commonly used. I looked into the metal wash and zinc wash treatments also, and it seems that if you are using epoxy, no need to use that stuff. There also seems to be complications with compatability. Some filler will not take the metal wash, while others say not to use it before using the filler. What a pain... epoxy it is for me! I will be using Kitty Hair for most of my work after sealing. I believe that stuff is waterproof anyways, and I expect to use it for other areas I want to smooth before sealer (like the rocker panels). Thanks for the advice. There seems to be as many ways to do this as there are people doing this type of work. Joshua

The clevis is a common part on Dirt Track cars. The only place I know of off hand is my local race chassis builder. I would think though that Stock Car products carries them. BuZy, The setup should have no binding through suspension travel, regardless of method used. The clevis should not be moving at all. These parts all come together to form a triangle (LCA, T/C Rod, Frame). When the suspension travels, the triangle rotates, the length of the sides of the triangle do not change though (Hopefully). Jamie T is correct, either will work fine. If you can't find a clevis, use or fab a hockey stick piece instead. The upper strut tower mount has nothing to do with the rotation of the LCA though. The strut and LCA are only connected through the outer ball joint, thus the LCA can rotate without the T/C (neglect any friction in the ball joint). This is why it is critical to have a setup where the T/C rod controls the rotation of the LCA (either through a clevis or hockey stick). Jamie T, How are you planning on mounting your T/C rod end to the chassis? I have seen racecars use a single shear joint. The bolt (or stud) is welded vertically through the frame rail. Makes for a nice tidy installation. The frame must be strong at that connection, but if you have a tube frame, you should have plenty of strength in the tube members. I like this method more than the U, but it does require so drastic changes. Joshua

That might work, I don't really know what heat capacity you need though. I would get a piece of aluminum from Home Depot and attach the HEI module to it. Get some thermal grease from Radio Shack, put it on the back of the HEI, and screw the two together. Shouldn't cost much, and should tell you if an overheating HEI is the problem. Joshua

I am unaware of any coolant passages in the intake itself, but there are some coolant lines that go to the throttle body. I would MUCH rather fix a leaking hose/plug/etc than swap the complete manifold! Much easier to just fix what you have (unless it is unrepairably broken). Joshua

Excellent work space! Are you insulating/sheetrocking the walls? The air compressor closet behind the shop is a great idea. It will keep the noise down, and could also isolate any compressor spark hazard if you plan to paint in the shop. I too spent a lot of time shopping around for my compressor, and also ended up with Ingersoll-Rand. I love it! The bigger the better. Did you put a sub-panel off a house for power, or a new power feed? How much power do you have available. I highly recommending checking power requires before buying a compressor. Nice Work! Joshua

If the parts are not moving, the RTV idea sound great! Excellent Idea! Joshua

The mount for the T/C rod that attaches to the body looks like a shock mount bracket. I have seen a number of different sizes available at the local shop. I wasn't sure if this was the same though. Joshua

240Z2NV, That is exactly what I was thinking of. I know that you can order that assembly in different lengths also. I like the end that they use. My local chassis builder shop calls that the Ford end. I have no idea why, whether it was used on Fords or not. I personally like it more than the clevis. Until seeing parts here, I had only seen clevis' used in tension on drag style links, not compression. I am not sure if that is coincidence or not. Seems to be working. TIG is a good way to weld your setup. Not that MIG won't work, it absolutely will, I was just concerned about cold welds. Looks like you have some options. Joshua

I see. Watch that heat around those seals! Joshua

Doug, I am not sure I follow your suggestion of boxing in the U bracket from the LCA. Do you mean to keep the rod end, but limit the travel with a bracket or metal flange? I definitely would not do anything like that if it is what you mean. Sorry if this is not what you meant. As for the clevis design, I know that is a common design, but I really don't see that it is necessary. I thought that the clevis was supposed to tighten up though also, not really allowing motion after any adjustments are made to the T/C rod. The threaded Ford hockey stick looking piece that is commonly available should work great. To keep the T/C rod as stress free as possible though with this method, I would loosen the two bolts that attach it to the LCA during adjustment. The clearances in the holes should allow for plenty of play to get the rod loose. This would mimic the clevis, but with less parts. I am not sure it is stronger, but it does seem that way to me. If you are intending to change the suspension setting significantly, and often, this may not be the best way. For a street car though, I will be going this route (if not a rigid lower A-arm altogether). I hope this helps. On a side note (and I am not trying to be rude), it looks like you are MIG welding the parts together. I cannot really tell, but do you have any gap to fill between the threaded insert and the tube? I would leave ~1/16" or so, depending on any bevel on the parts, to fill when welding. These parts will see A LOT of stress, and the welds should be very high quality. Please just make sure you get good enough burn in on the parts for good secure welds. You cannot afford cold welds here. Joshua