abes

Im looking for an HKS turbo muffler for a 280zx if anyone has one... Please PM or email me: aflaytes@hotmail.com Thanks.. Looks like this:

I was just wondering where you were getting your lips from. I've had a set for a while (17" 114.3x5- 324/329 ) and have been looking for lips for some time. I've found a few but have been pretty expensive. Thanks and show us some pictures as soon as they're done..

Any idea who makes the front end?? Any specs?

Would there be any changes needed to be made as far as the M/C?? What is included- rotors, pads, custom brackets & stainless lines for all four corners?? Please advise as i'm very interested..Also, you should list it in the S130 threads.

Updates??

I know it's a long shot but I have all the components for the stock twins: manifolds, turbos oil and water lines, inlet tubes, etc.. if your interested, i'll put up some cash along with all the components for the manifold. I'm in need of one. Abes

Finally!!!! Some good news. The chatter is gone. I poured 1-1/2 bottles of LSD additive (just because I bought 2) in the diff and drove around-vioala,no more chatter. JMORTENSON.. THANK YOU!!!

Well, I was able to finally assemble everything (after minor shimming) and put it all together. Slapped it in the car and drove it around. It has some minor whine but only at about 60mph (under load) bearable for now. It may also be the tranny but at this point, I'm not too concerned. What is driving me CRAZY is the MAJOR CLUNKING!!! I drove it around a bit to make sure the fluid (Swepco) gets into the clutches and gears, did about 10 circles in each direction, drove it some more, drained and re-filled it. I've driven about 150 miles on it and this think makes some harsh clunking. It only happens under load and while I'm turning at slow speeds. I've narrowed it down (so I think) to it being the clutches. It went from a worn 2-clutch LSD to a new 6-clutch with God knows how many miles through it. I didn't put any spacers in it cause I wanted it to be as streetable as possible but that is certainly not the case. What I think it may is that the spider gears are worn to the point that there is a significant amount of play between them and when the clutches are under a bit of torque, they want to lock and then release causing the MAJOR CLUNK. It sounds like the gears are jumping through broken teeth and the whole car moves with it. It can be heard pretty loud from the outside. I lifted the car and removed the back cover to see if there was anything visibly wrong. There was a small amount of metal shavings on the magnet but none that I was concerned with. There was alot of play between both wheels- shifting back and fourth. I know there should be some play but it seems a bit excessive to me. When I put in gear and let it spin, it doesn't make the noise but once I let it idle in gear while, i can hear it hitting. It's kind of hard to describe but it spins the wheel and when it reaches the speed or spins a little faster, there is enough play that it hits and makes noise. I feel that all that play plus the clutches locking the diff may cause the noise. Anyone have an experience like this???

Well, I was able to finally assemble everything (after minor shimming) and put it all together. Slapped it in the car and drove it around. It has some minor whine but only at about 60mph (under load) bearable for now. It may also be the tranny but at this point, I'm not too concerned. What is driving me CRAZY is the MAJOR CLUNKING!!! I drove it around a bit to make sure the fluid (Swepco) gets into the clutches and gears, did about 10 circles in each direction, drove it some more, drained and re-filled it. I've driven about 150 miles on it and this think makes some harsh clunking. It only happens under load and while I'm turning at slow speeds. I've narrowed it down (so I think) to it being the clutches. It went from a worn 2-clutch LSD to a new 6-clutch with God knows how many miles through it. I didn't put any spacers in it cause I wanted it to be as streetable as possible but that is certainly not the case. What I think it may is that the spider gears are worn to the point that there is a significant amount of play between them and when the clutches are under a bit of torque, they want to lock and then release causing the MAJOR CLUNK. It sounds like the gears are jumping through broken teeth and the whole car moves with it. It can be heard pretty loud from the outside. I lifted the car and removed the back cover to see if there was anything visibly wrong. There was a small amount of metal shavings on the magnet but none that I was concerned with. There was alot of play between both wheels- shifting back and fourth. I know there should be some play but it seems a bit excessive to me. When I put in gear and let it spin, it doesn't make the noise but once I let it idle in gear while, i can hear it hitting. It's kind of hard to describe but it spins the wheel and when it reaches the speed or spins a little faster, there is enough play that it hits and makes noise. I feel that all that play plus the clutches locking the diff may cause the noise. Anyone have an experience like this???

Check out this forum I just ran into.. It has lots of very cool pics of JDM cars. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2459524 Even a few of our own. Enjoy!!

As far as bedding them., I pretty much drove the car as normal. After some time I would come from a 50 mph to a sudden stop- a few times.

What has your experience been with the RS4 Street pads? Ever since I installed these pads on my car (83 zx which sees zero track time) I've had issues with my braking system. Do they need to heat up to work properly or do they work as standard pad; just able to resist more heat, less fade? I installed them with intentions of upgrading the stock system along with s.s lines, ATE Super Blue, Vented disks in the front and new disks on the rear- bled the entire system. The brakes have not been the same since the upgrades. They actually suck right now. I've gone as far as even replacing the master cylinder and bleeding the entire system numerous times. I try slamming the brakes and they come to a "faded" stop but no locking up. Its scary as I feel that if someone was to stop in front of me I would probably slam into them. Can it be the pads just aren't made to be a street, daily driven pad or do guys think otherwise?? Brake booster is the only thing left to replace through the system. Please let me know your experiences. Many Thanks.....

Thanks for all your help guys. I was able to locate and order a inch pound TW which my wife just brought home for me. I will disassemble everything, clean and reassemble according to your directions. Hopefully the next time I'm on i'll be sharing good news...

Thanks for all the help so far. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to figure it out yet and I haven't found anyone locally who can help so... I guess I'm gonna need all of your patience. This is what I'm doing: - I have (and read both) the factory SM for both the '83 280zx and '88 300zx which both show the r200. Funny enough, some of the torque numbers don't match. Somehow, I don’t think I’m getting it. Also, have you ever used any of the set up tools or adaptors? - All of the bearings are brand new. Mic'd to exact tolerances as the originals. Order of assembly: 1. Pressed the pinion height adjusting washer and bearing onto the pinion/ gear. There was only one washer which is what I used. 2. Pressed the outer races of the pinion rear bearing and the pinion front bearing onto the diff carrier. 3. I slide the adjusting spacer on- with the adjusting washer right after. 4. I slide the entire assembly into the carrier and hold it in place with a small piece of wood which slides in through one of the side openings. I then flip it over, slide the pinion front bearing, front pilot spacer, pilot bearing and the flange onto the pinion shaft. 5. I place it in the press and slowly press in the assembly from the pinion gear side. RIGHT AFTER THIS STEP, IT LOCKS UP. I’ve also tried assembling it the sme but instead of pressing it all the way into it seats, I torque slowly until I reach the 160lbs +/-. STILL LOCKS UP. IM ASSUMING THAT THIS IS PRELOADING?? I‘ve sourced some shims from a driveshaft shop, which actually helped. I put in the thinnest shim that would work (placed on top of the adjusting washer) which freed up the assembly. I placed the front seal and re-torqued the flange. All good so far.. I slid in the ring gear/lsd assembly with the new bearings and spacers as originally assembled, tapped the caps into place so far so good, torqued and then…. IT LOCKS UP. HARD TO SPIN THE FLANGE. IT TURNS A FEW TIMES FREELY AND THEN LOCKS UP. Zero backlash. Does this change the pinion depth? Since I added a shim to the adjusting washer, do I need to reduce the pinion height adjusting washer size? If so how? Am I missing any steps? I'm extremely tiered and don't know where to head. Any direction would be greatly appreciated……

Well, now I'm p'd off...I disassembled the entire thing, replaced the pinion bearing with a different new bearing (Koyo) and even purchased and replaced the front pilot ball bearing (Thanks to TidewaterZ and ezzzzzz). I scoped all the sizes with the original bearings and everything matched. Pressed the entire assembly and same s#!t.... Im stuck and don't know what else to do.

It was around $75 shipped. I don't think any dealer has it in stock but I could be wrong.

Bringing back an old thread but for good reason. I called TidewaterZ and they still had 3 bearings left (38335). If anyone is in need, you better jump on it ASAP. I just ordered one and they are great to deal with....

How do you think the pinion depth changed? I'm using the same set up except for the bearings. Thanks..

I've been working on my R200 for over a month now and I'm tired and just want to toss it...I bought new clutches for the LSD so that I could have what I thought would be a fresh rebuilt diff, not the case thus far...I purchased new all new bearings (except the NLA front pilot bearing) and seals and went to town. Took it all apart, cleaned it, reassembled the LSD and pressed those bearings on, no issues (I even decided to buy my own 12 ton press). Now comes the fun part. I pressed both front and rear pinion races into the housing and pressed the new bearing with the original washer/ spacer onto the pinion gear (per the manual). I slid it all into the housing with the (cone looking) adjusting spacer and washer then dropped the new pinion bearing, with the pilot bearing spacer and the pilot bearing with the flange at the end. I did not install the oil seal yet. Placed it into the press and slowly pressed down from the pinion side until the bearing inner race was sitting, it pretty much stopped. When i took it down and tried to turn the flange it was hard!!! I don"t have a inch/ lbs. torque wrench but it was not easy to turn by hand. This was the second time as i had just disassembled and reassembled the entire pinion set up (bearings and races) because I couldn't figure out why it was binding. The first time around I just torqued the pinion flange w/o the oil seal to 140lbs and the same thing happened. I took off the flange thinking it had something to do with it but it made no difference. Would the new bearings make that of a difference?? I don't what else to do. I'm using all of the original spacers and washers in the same order. HELP PLEASE....

Thanks guys. For now, I'll keep looking for just the set. An entire diff will cost to much to ship. I will keep it in mind though....

Yea, but now i have to find one.. No R200s around here.

Pat, Thanks for the great work and keeping your costs affordable!!! Well worth the $$$. Abe.

Forgot to mention it's an LSD unit..

It's an LSd unit

I guess I'll ask.. Do any of you have a 3.70 set for sale??