UofA_ZCar

Welcome! I like your project name.

I've been spending a lot of time reading old threads in preparation for the next phase of my build. While doing so I've stumbled across many build threads in various other forums besides the members project section. The moderators seem to be really on top of keeping the topics on track but why don't these get moved into the proper forum?? Those threads have a lot of good info in them and would be easier to find in the right section.

Too bad the paint is peeling up, it look like a pretty sweet color.

That is a really nice color!

Did you clip the front and the back? So by clipping a 1/2 coil what is your ride height (ground to frame rails)? In regards to you other post I got the polyurethane.

Nice move, That's what I should have done. I hate waiting for the parts to get back from sand blasting. While I continue to needle gun I did receive a few things in the mail! Both are in preparation for the engine phase of my build. Pallnet fuel rail from a guy on Zcar.com Polyurethane motor mounts from McKinney Motorsports (I must say this is an absolutely gorgeous product)

Crazy how that happens. I thought mine was going to be driving in 6 months and here I am 12 into it. Great work though...... car looks great.

From all the reading and people I've talked to locally it seems you are best off running as much hard line as you can. I'm planning to try and make an exact copy of the stock hard lines using stainless lines. I'll just buy the bending and flaring tool and do it myself.

I swapped out the other three springs with the Tokico 280Z springs. On all 4 corners the car stands 1/2 inch higher with the 280Z springs compared to the Tokico 240Z springs. I removed the transmission, driveshaft, and exhaust in preparation for cleaning the undercoating off the trans tunnel, frame rails, and floor boards. I started needle gunning again (good times... note the sarcasm) and found a few rust spots. It is more than I'd like to have to deal with but nothing to complain about give the level of rust I have seen in some of the other build threads. Once I finish the trans tunnel I plan to put new hard fuel/brake lines in and then start putting the back half of the car together (there is no gas tank or third member right now). I've read old threads on fuel delivery for hours and figure give my planned turbo set up I'll have to weld a sump into my fuel tank. I haven't welded in years so I plan to get a buddy of mine to give me a lesson or two and then I'm going to see if I can fab the gas tank up myself. Any tips on fabricating the gas tank sump or running new hard lines would be greatly appreciate as I haven't done either before....... but that's half the fun right.

Non-webbed as well? If so what do you want for it shipped to 89141?

I found a non-webbed EGR intake in the junk yard today that I'm going to try and make work. So I am no longer looking for one. As I finish up the suspension part of my build I'm starting to gather parts for the engine. As the title states I'd like to get a hold of a non-webbed non-EGR intake manifold for my L28 if someone has one they don't mind parting with.

You just hold the dry ice on the undercoating in one hand (using a glove) and needle gun with the other. Leave the dry ice on a spot for like a minuted then move it to the next spot as you needle gun the last spot..... Hope that is as clear as mud?

Looks good so far! Try using the needle gun with dry ice...it goes even faster. On a side note I'm jealous off all the work space you have.

Thanks for the nice comments guys. Passenger suspension is done! With the 280z Tokico springs it only sits 1/2 in higher than with the Tokico 240Z springs that were bunched up.... so at this point Im not going to clip them. Burning out the old rubber bushing 240Z spring (left) vs. 280Z spring (right) The 280z looks linear to me 280Z spring side 240Z spring side Finished product on passenger side Now I just need to swap out the other 3 240Z springs for the Tokico springs off my old 280Z

I have one as well, if none of the others work out PM me

+1 My personal opinion is that being 16 you are probably better off getting a late 90's early 2000's corolla or sentra as your daily driver. Relatively safe, low, maintenance costs, lower insurance rate, and pretty good MPG. Then just pick up an S30 as a project car/weekend driver.

Very true....I doubt any of us build our Zs with the intention to simply flip it for a profit. You almost never get back what you invest in aftermarket automotive parts anyway. I think it is simply like any commodity, if there is enough people interested and enough emotion the prices rise until it all calms down again. Knuckle's car is awesome but I think the final sale price is a result of the ebay effect. If you look at the bit history 3 people drove the price up 2K in the last day. He probably would have accepted the earlier guys offer of 12k had it not been an online auction.

Got the body painted with rustbullet and just recieved my suspension parts back from sand blasting. Once I paint them I'll assemble it with the tokico 280Z spring and then see how I like the ride height. Then I'll decide if I'm going to clip a coil off the spring or not.

Almost ready for paint!......I can't wait to be done stripping the underside of the body. Medial blasting would definitely be the way to go if i didn't have my space restraints. Good eye. I also plan to get a modernized fuse box.

Polyurethane bushings, Tokico illimuna struts, and Tokico 280z springs (I may clip a coil to lower it a bit). In the future I will probably do a coil over set up but that is once I have the engine done. Haven't decided on sway bars or strut tower bars yet.

Your HP goal and engine choice is along the same plan as my build. I'm still stuck in the suspension rebuilding stage though. I look forward to seeing how your build progresses.

looks good man! Keep chugging along

Tried a different technique today when I was removing the undercoating on the passenger front side....... Dry ice and the needle gun. It was great, took me about 40 minutes on the passenger side compared to probably 4 hours on the driver side (without using dry ice). The dry ice just makes the undercoating so brittle it falls off in big chunks! I took a break from doing undercoating and installed my brushed aluminum shift knob from 1 Tuff Z. It was a bit out of order considering the interior is last on my list but sometimes you need to change it up when you are in the trenches of a project......and I definitely consider stripping undercoating the trenches of a z project (that and the god forsaken spindle pins). I must say that this shift knob is a quality product.

looks great so far, but why not repaint the suspension components when you had them out to replace the bushings? Awesome pics with the 370 and camero!

They say Japan on the back. They actually feel pretty light..... I believe the outer lip is aluminum. But I am by no means a metal or wheel expert.