UofA_ZCar

They are horrible about that, and the packages are always all beat up. I think Fedex is much better

Thanks! The comments help keep me motivated. I drilled two holes in the gas tank strap and welded a bolt onto it (threads facing away from the tank). Then I just slipped the walbro bracket onto it and then a bolt. Drivers side is the return and passenger side is the feed. It is the 7/8 master cylinder. Feels darn near perfect with the car on jack stands ..... I'll let you know how it feel when she is on the wheels doing a burnout!

This is what I finally ended up doing: Sumped stock tank --> Russel filter --> Walbro fuel pump --> Corvette filter/regulator --> 3/8 hard line to engine bay --> stock Ls1 fuel rail. The return line comes off the corvette filter/regulator. I ditched the idea of mounting the filter/regulator in the engine bay due to spacing issues. So I removed the 3/8 hard return line that I had previously bent/mounted.

While I wait for John from John's Cars to get beck to me about the T56 transmission mount that doesn't fit I decide to finish up my braided fuel lines. The set up is: Sumped stock tank --> Russel filter --> Walbro fuel pump --> Corvette filter/regulator --> 3/8 hard line to engine bay --> stock Ls1 fuel rail. The return line comes off the corvette filter/regulator. I ditched the idea of mounting the filter/regulator in the engine bay due to spacing issues. So I removed the 3/8 hard return line that I had previously bent/mounted.

Awesome! I can't wait for the first burnout in mine. I love the look of your car with 9.5in tires on all four corners. How about some video from the outside?

Then engine is back in the Z! My John's Cars engine mounts worked great but sadly I'm having fitment issues with the transmission mount. It seems to have been bent incorrectly but I have an email into john and hopefully it will be resolved soon. I also installed the drivers side Sanderson header and to my surprise I had a clearance issue. One of the drivers side engine mount bolt holes that are in the block was contacting one of the header tubes well before the flange was flush agains the head. I had to grind down that part of the block about an 1/8 (or less) of an inch. Next time I'm in the garage I will tackle the passenger side and bending the dip stick tube to fit around the header.

Same here. He is a stand up guy and it is too bad there are not more guys like him making Z parts. I hope Sunny's car gets figured out.

This is very similar to what I want to do. Any chance you could post a sound clip?

Getting that lined up right was a pain. Mine also needed some persuasion from a BFH, but bolted on without modification to the mount. I didn't drill mine out but it did take three guy shifting the engine back/forth, about 20 minutes, and putting a screw driver through the opposite end you are feeding the bolt through to get it lined up. Also, do the passenger side engine mount bolt first and then do the drivers side (stock GM LSX mount).... so much easier in that order.

Spent today finishing a few things so I'll be ready to drop the engine in for the final time later this week! Ground a few unneeded mounting tabs off the engine bay, finalized the fuel feed line, and fixed the alternator clearance issue. I ground the alternator lower mounting bracket and the bolt head to allow more clearance between the bolt head at accessory belt. I also ground down the ground line bolt on the back of alternator so it will now clear the Cross member engine mount.

I recall reading somewhere on HybridZ that the stock gas cap does not seal air tight, so in theory I should be good to go correct?

That is really my main question. So I can hook the vent line in the engine comparmtent directly to the throtle body in the same spot that the EVAP control valved used to hook to? ....... and I can do this without any negative effect on gas tank pessures?

If I understand the replys than I could just vent the tank to a charcole canister and I shouldn't have issues with gas fumes..... no need to tie it into the engine. Correct? Do you get any of the typical gas smell inside the Z with this set-up? I am trying to make sure I don't have the gas smell that is common inside the early Zs. Thanks for the help!

I have read through the posts I could find, but didn't find the answer. Referring to the diagram below it seems like the stock LS1 gas tank vented to the throttle body. Can I just vent the stock 240z tank to the LS1 throttle body using the stock 240z vent line that runs to the engine bay? The only difference I see is that I would not have a evaporative canister or a control valve but the stock 240z didn't have one anyway. Could really use some advice from someone smarter than me on this one. FYi I am running the stock gas tank with a sump and stock expansion tank (small tank in passenger rear of car). Thanks

Engine and transmission are back out. No one answered my question regarding being able to pull the transmission without pulling the engine, but my guess is no. It doesn't seem like you can move the transmission far enough rearward for the output shaft to clear the clutch pressure plate. Today i changed the rear main seal and pilot bearing on the LS1. Also replaced the front and rear output shaft seals on the T56; as well as replacing the slave/throwout bearing combo. I couldn't find any good write ups on changing the front output shaft seal on the T56, so here are the steps: Remove the dozen or so 15mm bolts Split the case apart being careful not to pull the output shaft off. I put a jack stand against it to hold it on place: Pull the bearing races out: Tap the old seal out (front to back): Now go wash the bell housing. Then tap the new seal in using an equal sized socket (back to front) Clean the sealing surface and then put some RVT gasket maker on there. Then bolt it back together using the time protocol in the RVT directions. Bolt torque should be 37 ft/lbs. Make sure you line everything up and ease it together. I also couldn't find any pictures of how to install the russell fitting on the slave cylinder so here it is: This is the pin you have to tap out:

I have a stock mustache bar I will sell you for $50 + shipping

I also have a complete L28T set up if the others fall through

Test fit the engine over the weekend and had some celebratory Chimay! This is the part of the LS1 black you have to trim JCI passenger engine mount (driver side reuses the stock F-body mount): The only issue I have noticed so far: The back of my alternator didn't clear the motor mount. This kinda pisses me of as I found a F-body LS1 specifically because I thought all the accessories would clear. I have't had time to look further into it and see if I just need to trim the black cover on the back of the alternator. The big question: I still need to install a new clutch and the headers. It looks like there is enough room to drop the transmission without pulling the engine. If that is the case then I wont have to pull the engine back out. If anyone knows for sure and can spare some insight that would be great!

I have this clutch for sale: ACT Clutch and pressure plate NX2-HDSS 410ft/lb (Sprung, full faced clutch disc for street use less than 400 miles on the disc) $270 Shoot me a pm if you want it

Installed the Tilton clutch master cylinder last night (Summit part number TIL-75-975U). I swapped the push rod (I don't know the official name) from the z master cylinder into the Tilton so it would bolt up to the clutch pedal. I went with the 4oz resevoir since it was about the size of the stock camaro reservior.

I feel your pain. This is how most of the parts of my build go. The first time through is the figuring it out and the second time is for the finished product. I installed Jmortesons (sp?) CV adaptors, new wheelbearings, and 280z stub axles only to realized I should have installed the bracket for the rear disk swap first. So I had to take the CV's and Stub axles back off right after I installed them!

Thanks RebekahsZ..... I'm sure I'll need plenty of help along the way. Did I few "tinkering in the garage" style things today. Removed the EVAP and plugged the hole in the manifold with a 1.5 inch rubber stopper from Ace Hardware. I was told the engine came out of a 2001 camaro but everything I read says that after 2000 the manifolds should be EVAP free?? Changed the reverse light switch to one with a 90 degree bend, so I don't have to bang out the transmission tunnel. What I didn't read in the other build threads is that the new switch has a male electrical fitting and the original switch had female. So now I have a harness with a male electrical plug and a switch with a male electrical plug. I will have to roam the electrical isle at home depo and figure out a remedy. Finally I turned the Skip Shift solenoid into a plug by grinding it in half and filling it with silicone gasket maker.

Nice work. I wish I would have seam welded when I had my Z down to bare metal. On your front strut bar what did you tie the bars going down into?

I can't find these two comments in the Chilton's manual (I know I know... I'm waiting on my FSM to show up). I believe they are part of the "ditch-able" stuff but am not certain. Could someone tell me what they are? In the picture I would like to know what the plug on the back of the intake + the electrical plug going into is? (my guess is PCV) In the picture below I would like to know what the solenoid is in the middle of the screen to the left of the wire loom? (my guess is purge valve but if so why does it come off the fuel line and go into the throttle body? Thanks

Installed the John's Car's LS1 body mounts today. It is a nice kit with great instructions, but it did still take some persuasion with a rubber mallet and grinder to install it. Braket sandwiched between the cross member and unibody: Engine mounts installed: