briann510

we now have 400 miles on the engine and are ready for chassis dyno runs now. we are running Mikuni 44's with 180 main jets and 210 air jets with 50 accelerator. we have a slight stumble once warmed up in first gear off idle only, but its almost gone and is be attributed to heat off the header baking the carbs and intake runners. we now have a header blanket on, intake runners wrapped and fuel lines wrapped and it made a huge difference in drivability and the stumbles. i bet its gonna want 170's and 190 air jets for the final ones after chassis dyno runs. i think we might be a little high with 4 psi fuel pressure also as i really was hoping it would settle down around 3 max. we will hit the chassis dyno next week and get some a/f readings and see how close we are but it seems to run perfect a little on the rich side which is fine. the car rarely sees under 3000 rpm daily driving it around town. it idles nicely at 900 rpm's.

we have MSA lowering springs front and rear and sway bars with all poly bushings thru out. the R200 3.90 is an open rear end but we may put a lsd in soon but havnt decided for sure on that yet. the Tokicos are not the adjustable ones. the front brakes are stock and work just fine (was going to upgrade them but decided until they dont work in stopping the car ill leave them). the rears are 1990 240sx rotors/calipers. i can stand on the brakes hard at 120 mph and the car will stop quickly with no fading so to speak of but im sure constant braking like that would be hazardous. we are actually going to raise the rear up 3/4 inch soon with 280z strut isolators. the rear sits too low right now and we dont like it.

just got the 3 inch exhaust in today and Borla XR-1 round racing muffler. Man it woke this engine right up! sounds mean as hell as well now. it was definatly being choked back with the 2.5" pipe before with the non-manderal bends.

i only run mobil1 synthetic and hopefully wont ever have a sludge problem in this engine.

yea scrap the spray bar.. thats what all the datsun race engine builders do....NOT its all personal preference. since i have 10K in my engine ill oil it both ways thank you.

our header is ceramic coated and it still puts off intenese heat enough to fry the fuel in the carb bowls and lines, the intake runners and carbs themselves, especially after turned off and heat soak sets in. i use a header blanket sandwiched in between the header and intake/carbs. it isnt wrapped around the header, only laying between so it can still have air underneath to exit under the car and it keeps everything cool when running and when shut off. my fuel lines are also wrapped. im gonna use the left over heat blanket and wrap it around my intake runners also. if we restart the car after a heat soak we flip the fuel pump on a couple seconds before firing to purge any hot fuel through the lines and back into the tank.

well that is true, i can run 12:1 on pump gas if i run my timing at 26 degrees total, but the performance is gonna suck. sure you can run pump gas on any compression if you back the timing off accordingly, but if you want optimum power/performance then you need to leave the timing where it is.

id say no on pump gas. 10:1 is about the max for pump gas.

russ, you can see in our pictures we have nitrous nozzel holes tapped in the intake. that is our only future performance planned. the engine is pretty much exactly like we want it now. in the planing stages we were going to go with much higher compression and a much stouter cam and ending up in the 350 hp range, but we decided to keep it streetable and be able to run it on pump gas.

i think using both is a little overkill, but it depends how the car is going to be driven also. if i was going to do one or the other id probably use the spray bar.

Zcarnut: Rebello Racing and SunBelt both use the external cam oiler along with an internally oiled cam on ALL of their performance engines.

yea Dave and his guys are all very cool. all 4 of them spent 3 hours on our car last week adjusting the carbs and jetting. would spin it around the block a few times and more adjustments. its damn close now. yea there are more than a few people waiting for us to chassis dyno it. we figure around 270 rwhp, but it really doesnt matter to us what it does and we may never even run it on a chassis dyno. soon as the rain stop we will g-tech it and see what we get. we have already whipped a couple new 05 vettes and a few subaru wrx turbos. we hit 2nd gear and left them a car length behind and they never caught up. one of the vette guys wanted to see our V8 under the hood. it was funny as heck!

go with internal cam oiling and the spray bar both if you can. thats what we did on our stroker.

i think it was 7K for the long block and Mikuni triples. i didnt supply anything for the new motor and its guaranteed for as long as we own it. it breaks Rebello fixes it no charge. throw another couple grand into the flywheel,clutch, suspension, interior stuff, cowl hood and misc things so maybe 10 grand. cost of the car was $4500 5 months ago.

yea thats him, altho he doesnt go there anymore. you might see him around town though as hes breaking the clutch in now and trying to get 400 miles on it quickly. we will be going into bgr racing dyno in concord as soon as the clutch is broke in properly (centerforces weird break in thing). i didnt break my CF in on my race car and it wasted it and my flywheel, so i told him to be patient. i did ask him to get on it full throttle once off a light a couple days ago, and the damn thing was a rocket throwing me back in the seat through 3 gears to 7K.

compression is 10:1. the head was ported and polished by Rebello Racing. intake flows 210, exhaust flows 152 at max cam lift numbers for our cam used.

unbelievable quickness on this 240z. we did further carb tuning and timing adjustments and got 9 more hp than the posted dyno runs. after breaking the centerforce clutch in my son nailed it off a light a few days ago at my request and it was like a rocket. car weighs in at 2350 lbs. http://www.bbgraphics1.com/73z/index.html

thanks much

i am looking for a shop that knows that they are doing to install rear struts and do an alignment in N california east bay area for our 240z (walnut creek area). i went in to a couple places and they said we dont work on those old cars. i said why not..i got no answer... thanks

this is a showcars company hood and it went right on without any mods needing done. latch went right on also. closed nice and straight. wasnt too hard at all. very nice quality also. just bought it from the guy that ordered it from them and he did say it took months go finally get it and then ups billed him for duty fees the shipper didnt pay for. he wasnt pleased at all, but the quality is really good. i only have one picture of the hood on the site in upper right corner but if someone wants more pictures of it just shoot me an email. http://www.bbgraphics1.com/73z

i talked to Summit today and found the part numbers, and they will meet anyones lower price and i get a discount on top of it cause ive ordered so much from them in the past for another race car (didnt even know about my discount) thanks

summit and jegs only has of course the muscle v8 stuff on their site and catalogs. i called them both and both people new so little about Datsun applications i hung up on them.

MSA is always backordered on everything i have order from them, so who else sells a Centerforce clutch for Datsuns?

this would be for a 3.2 stroker, and so far MSA 13.5 lb one seems ok for the price. i am looking for a 225mm, not a 240mm.

i need to buy a lightweight flywheel for a stroker motor. any suggestions on brands, weights and pros and cons over one style or another? thanks