briann510

we have triple mikuni 44'S on our 3.2 stroker. they flat out scream. we have over 2K very hard driven miles on the engine now and they are still in adjustment and we havnt had to mess with them. dont even run the chokes and they fire right up whether its 30 degrees out or 90 and idle right away. we are well into the 12's with the setup. if we dont run the air cleaners and just the stacks you can hear the carbs 10 blocks away sucking in air.

our 3.2 stroker with triples we had the same problem. cured it by increasing the accel pump jets quite a bit and leaning the mains from a couple steps. pretty much cured the off/low idle stumbles. the only time it does it now if the engine bay is really hot as in sitting after shutoff and restarting after heat soak under hood temps go way up. using a cowl hood and wrapping fuel lines helped alot with that issue.

with our Mikunis we dont even have a choke. they fire right up on 35 degree mornings or 85 degree days and idle right away. you shouldnt need the choke and only give the pedal a tap before you crank it over.

all LD28 cranks will have a V07 stamped on one of the weights.

i agree with that, and thats exactly why the instructions say to run an additial #8 wire from the alternators bat terminal directly to the + battery terminal. do not run the 105 or higher alternator just with the stock bat wire hooked to it.

get a plug and play alternator from zcar specialties. you dont have to do anything with the external regulator except unplug it (no cutting or splicing wires in or together or any hassles of other electrical wiring mods with it, you just discard the whole thing). you dont even re-plug the stock 2 prong connector to the back of the alternator eitheras its just tapped off and left hanging or cut off. i just bought a 105 amp one for $180 and he also sells a 120 amp. he has already done the internal mods so it goes right in. no bracket or pulley mods either. plug and play alternator

i have been hitting the stores looking for a decent polisher. most of the ones i see are called sanders and not polishers. what do i need to look for? and it looks like the prices are around $200. once i found one i liked, i looked and couldnt find any pads for it in several stores. i just need to color sand a hood then rub it out/polish it afterwards. suggestions? hints? tips/tricks? thanks

silent, feel free to email me with any questions on the Mikuni setup. they are very prone to underhood heat and it really effects the way they are tuned. THEY DO NOT LIKE ANY HEAT ON OR NEAR THEM! even a cermaic coated header gives off too much heat for them and you will also need a heat shield or header blanket between the carbs/intake and header.

actually what you said makes perfect sense. i wasnt dissing dynojets at all above. all i was saying the majority of the street racer crowd and alot of track guys around here just run a dyno run to get a rwhp number and not to do any tuning from the runs, and with that in mind quite a few people asked why our rear wheel hp numbers were a bit low as they didnt even know there were different kinds of dynos out there. now if someone asks me i just tell them flywheel hp and be done with it. we specifically used the 4 hours of dyno runs to tune.

damn, id be plenty happy with that!

we are going with the stock color and now shooting black on part of the car, but not all the way over the top of fenders as your picture. the black hood we just shot with color a few days ago. maybe the headlight buckets might look good shot black also? we have the headlight tinted covers on a shelf somewhere and talked about shooting just those black also for daytime running.

well, the engine screams now. it looks like something we just have to live with as its running really good and the dyno runs look good. i dont think the engine will make anymore power, so we are fine with it with current jetting. it is definatly the acc nozzles, as when we started with 35's it had a horrible stumble and really cleaned up with the 50's. i dont know if trying 1 more change on the nozzles will help anymore or not.

there is currently no dynojet facility within 30 miles of my house, and the mustang dyno is 2 blocks away. i just found a place that is having a new dynojet delivered as they got rid of their old one that is 10 miles away, and they told me in a week they will be taking customers. i made the comment about bragging numbers vs tuning numbers because alot of people around here just go to the dyno to get rwhp numbers and thats it. they dont tune or make any adjustments.

spent a couple hours on the dyno this afternoon and ended up with a best run by going from 175 to 162.5 main jets and made 10 more RWHP from previous 215 to a 225. was gonna drop down the air jets from 210's to 190's and then couldnt find 6 of them to do the change we wanted to try. the test run info was with air cleaners on, the base run info was velocity stacks only. with air cleaners on we lost about 1.2 hp, but i can attribute that to the 50mm stacks too close to air cleaner tops. still have some figuring out whats causing the 2800-3800 rich a/f ratio drop to 10.40 (probably acc nozzles, but just not sure just yet, or if the mains cutting in at 3K arethe problem and too little timing). have another drop at around 4800-6000 but its still staying in the 12.50 range so its fine for now. so with a 20 percent corrected mustang dyno machine to a dynojet machine number comparison its now 270 RWHP for those of you that are into the numbers thing and not just tuning info. we havnt made any runs with racing gas and timing changes from its 31 degrees total. we are trying to see what it will do strictly on 91 octane pump gas. i would guess bumping timing up to 34-35 might gain a few extra horses, but not worth it for the extra cost of racing gas. so the current carb info is: 162.5 main jets 210 air correction jets 67.5 pilot jets 50 acc nozzles 44mm chokes

we just removed air cleaners just now and the stumble has pretty much dissapeared. we reserved all of next thursday afternoon for dyno time and have a whole assortment of jets until we get it right. gonna do step fuel curve testing and timing runs as well. it will get dialed in this next go round!

ok, here were the carb settings on the dyno runs as i wasnt positive on them before when people were asking: 41mm chokes 210 air jets 175 fuel jets 67.5 idle jets 50 acc nozzles 50mm velocity stacks 32 degrees total timing what we need to address is the off idle stumble at anything more than half throttle. we of course have a under hood heat issuse we need to address which is part of the problem even though we run the cowl hood. we need to get more air to the carb side of the engine compartment. the cowl hood at speed is a stand off i belive and no air is going out the opening, not is any going in at speed. Tnaks all for your suggestionsand comments.

yes we know we are off in several places and thats exactly what the runs with the AF results are for. Luckily we can run on the dyno as much as we need to.

These runs were done on a Mustang Dynamometer and NOT a Dynojet for those looking at the numbers only. Most people were expecting higher results achieved on a Dynojet machine but these numbers we got are usually a solid 15-20% less than a Dynojet dyno if you want to compare to other peoples results who used a dynojet. This facility is a couple blocks from our house and very convenient to go back often for testing after changes, so this will be it from here on out. when all is tuned and satisfied we will go find a Dynojet facility just to have both sets of numbers for the curious... these first runs were just to get a baseline and AFM numbers for jetting changes etc.. so for all you people that were looking for a Dynojet readout RWHP number just add approx 40 hp to get 258 RWHP on a Dynojet machine to compare. The jetting is went pig rich when the main jet comes in at 3K and we still have the bad stumble off idle we need to take care of. have another pig rich point at 4900 also and another rich at 6500. we did not try different timing changes this time out and just left it at 32 degrees total. we also want to make 2 runs back to back with air cleaners and with stacks only to see if that changes anything. we were going to do step testing for the a/f ratio monitoring but will hit that next go round after some carb tuning. this will be a good baseline to start with. current jetting is: 180 fuel jets 210 air jets 34mm chokes 55 idle jets 50 acc Our 73z with 3.2 stroker with pictures and videos Chassis dyno run video

we had a crane PS20 on our stroker when first fired up and it couldnt get the job done, and the tach was jumping around. put a MSD blaster 2 coil on and all was fine.

well i can see what we want to do next! glad to see someone doing great stuff with something other than a turbo or stroker.

Finally got out today and grabbed some video of going through the gears and a couple launches. the carbs are a little off until we get it on the dyno all afternoon next thursday to really shake it down and see where we stand on jetting etc.. it lays rubber through every gear for a good 30 feet unless we go easy on it and both tires up in smoke even though its an open 3.90 rear. first gear redlined spinning right away and 2nd gear grabbed and just spun again to redline right away. drag radials and 15x10 rear rims are in near furure. video isnt excellant quality as its an old hi 8 camera. here is the link: http://www.bbgraphics1.com/73z/strokervideo.mpeg

thanks Tony! i will inquire about those cooling bodies. a picture would be great when you have the time and if you can find them. i saw a diagram of one of those cooling bodies and it was $28 i think. we should dyno it soon and see exactly how we are a/f ratio and go from there with any jetting issues and then go for more heat options like the one you just pointed out. Brian

its never enough. i started in the early 70's running in the 13's, then in the 20 years from then all the way to the high 9's. that was fast enough for me in a street car on drag radials (still have the car after 31 years). the Z is a whole new venture for me and my son...how fast do we wanna go...?

the header blanket just kinda laid over the header and tucked over the end tubes. i didnt tie it down. it more or less molded to the way i wanted it to sit then once it heated up a couple times it held the position. it hasnt moved at all on me in 500 miles. i also cut some extra blanket and laid more between the intake runners and header and also a section in front that blocks the radiator heat on the front of the intake. it keeps a tonf of heat off everything, including the clutch/brake lines. it smelled kinda weird while it was baking but we got used to it. this way the herader isnt wrapped and the heat goes out under the car. the blanket cost $70 from summit racing.

Dan, my son is big at 295 lbs and 6 3, and any little bump and the back tires rub and scrape. if both of us are in the car its pretty bad on both sides. the car is gonna get flares and 15x10 rear rims, but just not sure when. we will just probably put up with the rubbing until then.