briann510

yea, actually its more like 20 counties. i think the dmv site may have meant 6 whole counties, when there are like 20 partial ones, but there are still alot of areas and zip codes you can register your cars in that are no smog check required for any vehicle.

There are still many zip codes within 6 certain counties that dont require ANY smog checks on ANY year vehicles (yes I said ANY YEAR). From DMV site "There are six counties that require smog certifications within certain Zip Codes only. These counties are: El Dorado, Placer, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, and Sonoma. Depending on the counties zip code is what the smog check ruling is". These counties only require a smog test when ownership is transferred into affected zip code out of state transfer in, but no bi annual check after that. go to the cal dmv sites below and navigate for the info on the county rules and affected zip codes for smog checks and registrations. the last link is a california map showing what areas require what. Unfortunatly Modesto im pretty sure doesnt have any zip codes where you can slide. What is gonna screw you and the car is the initial out of state mandatory inspection. If you can get it passed that stage then there are many ways to get around the bi annual inspection such as the zip code waivers, plus a few other tricks. engine swaps have weird rules here in California. they just changed again alst year with the laws. I am not sure what catagory your swap will fall into, but I bet its not in your favor. http://www.dmv.ca.gov/ http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/howto/nonresident.htm http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/ZIPAREA/ZIPLOOKUP.ASPX http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/ftp/pdfdocs/program_map.pdf

just for your info, octane boosters dont raise compression up enough to do much of anything. usually only .2-.3 of an octane point. not full points like the labels lead you to beleive.

ahhh its all good. everyone has different ideas and ways they like to do things. the only wrong way to do it is to put a v8 in it..LOL

jmortnesen said "So if your new engine puts out 85 hp per liter like mine did, then you're looking at 240 hp with a 2.8, or 265 hp with a 3.1. So your extra $1500 or $2500 or whatever it's going to cost buys you 25 hp" ummmm try more like 60 HP MORE.

i KNEW you would post those pictures to tease me!!!! yes that is a nice setup but "most" dont look anything like that, not meaning i couldnt do a nice looking setup like that. like i said before if i had to do it all over again it would be a different setup indeed. excellant post and info Tony. Yes a garage built engine with mail order parts can make some serious HP for sure. Like i said before i dodnt know squat about Datsun engines when we bought this car so i went the way we went just because...because of what you ask.. heck..JUST BECAUSE! lol i just like the fact when the engine needs rebuilding because of normal wear or blowing it up it wont cost me a dime to have it done. that for me is well worth the extra money. if i had to do it all over again would i do a stroker??? not really sure how i would do another one, but my son likes turbos so i would bet it would be some mega HP turbo engine running on race gas only pushing some outrageous boost numbers. if i had a limited budget and money was tight im sure i would have done something cheaper and not a stroker, but we said what the hell go for it.

you can build a stroker that doesnt cost near as much as ours did. ous did because of who we used to do it and that he offers a lifetime warranty on it. couldnt resist that warranty. we could have gone turbo for ALOT cheaper and made more HP as money want an issue on our z engine, but turbos dont get me off one little bit and i dont like fuel injection either for looks or performance even tho its easier to tune. i like making HP on the engine with carbs and run it on pump gas. we did just order a nitrous fogger setup to throw another 150-175 HP into it so that should be fun and get us into the 10's. you can bet Tonyd knows his stuff in pretty much anything z related, but he hates strokers and carbs! LOL

good numbers Tony, but id love to get a rundown on EXACTLY what was done to the engine to make that HP. race gas only? horrible idle with a .550+ lift cam? all it takes in money to make whatever HP one wants to make with any setup used. stock block, stroker, turbo etc...different "strokes" for different folks..LOL

or you can do a 3.2 stroker and make 320+ crank HP like we have. we did 278 RWHP and still doing some tuning. we just ordered our fogger nitrous kit and will be throwing another 150 HP at it. FUN!

what a stupid azz posting.. im guessing the original post person is maybe 14...

why not just buy a viper....

ive had sbc dsl for a couple years and never had a problem with it.

you can just use a header blanket if you like instead of wrapping the header. just lay it on top of the header which still allows it to breathe so to speak. when iwas running a header blanket i just laid it between the header and intake carbs and it worked just fine. now i just use the piece wrapped under the carbs and intake and not laying on the header.

Ken, no we havnt got it on a scale yet. everytime we are at the track the scales are closed. my son weighs 300 lbs and is 6'4", so thats no helping much in the light weight department..LOL Bryan, that "bog" sound is from not running air cleaners on our triples. it is not from too much of a drop in rpms ratio wise between gears. you should hear another video someone shot of those runs from the end of the track as car was coming towards the camera. all you can hear is carbs sucking in air with the "bog" sound all the way to 7K rpms and its very loud. the 2-3 shift drops the rpms right at 4500 rpms, so i suspect its not a bog sound from too low of a rpm drop rather the carbs. when my son is nailing it around town i can easily hear him 1/2 a mile away the carbs are so loud and if he is coming my direction even further away than that.

thanks John. i should have at least use adjustables on the rear. once i put the HP's on i realized it, but the old ones were shot and i got a good deal on 4 of the HP's and couldnt pass them up. it didnt take but 45 minutes to replace both rear struts so i may get the adjustables. i dont know about strictly rear drag shocks only as the car is driven on the street as a daily driver also. but if it will greatly help get the car launced maybe...

John, yea i remember your comment on the front bar and heeded that advice and left it on. i had a guy with a V8 z tell me when he took the rear bar off his rear and he got worse traction off the line at the track straight line accelerating. he said it caused one wheel to lift worse and im not sure if thats true or if something else was affecting the launch.

so what about strictly launching straight line? better to run a rear sway bar or not? also our car is not road raced and generally only used for sheer straight line accelerating and was thinking of also removing the front bar if nothing else to get rid of the weight.

exhaust is a 3/2/1 header, 3" pipe and a 3" Borla Raceline XR-1 Raceline muffler.

after 5 weeks of rain delays we finally got to the track last wednesday with a video camera. we had a few 12.80 runs a month or so ago but didnt have a camera with us to record them. pardon the low video quality as its only a hi 8 camera. on his winning run of 12.909 on a dial in of 12.90. the track screen time got missed at the last moment on camera when i got bumped by someone. the other run in the video was a 13.024 with a dial in of 12.90 and he let up on it in first when he was spinning badly or he probably would have nailed a 12.90 also on that run. he is still spinning in 1st (with a 2.0-2.1 0-60 foot times) and chirping 2nd and 3rd, even with drag radials. he doesnt do a pre-burnout which probably hurts, but we need a line loc to do some decent burnouts. Video of our ¼ mile runs

those are the "old" gtech's. they work ok, but save up and get the newer ones. we got one of those cheapies and sometimes it works, sometimes it dont.

we did happen to find a guy at a local car show last night that does custom body/paint a couple minutes from our house. we chatted for a long time and hes been doing it 31 years. we are going to go by his shop on Monday to check it out. He only does custom work and doesnt mind the customer keeping an eye on the progess each day in person.

Starting to look around for a body shop that might do custom body work such as installing flares (not sure if we are going to rivet them on or actually bond and blend them yet). looks like we are going to go with the rear IMSA type box flares. we have done our own prep and paint so far on the car and we might attempt the flares ourselves, but need a 2nd option. Would like to find someone in the Walnut Creek/Pleasant Hill/Martinez area.

our cowl hood is from Showcars Unlimited in Canada at this address: http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html we ditched the stock hood springs and the hood stays open just fine using the stock rod that flips up (the hood already had the boss for the rod). uses the stock hinges and latch also. they label ours as a 2" cowl, but its more like 4". cost was $400 plus another $100 for shipping i think. we got it used for $375 and then we did about a days worth of sanding on it and shot the color. keeps the underhood temps way cooler.

we might be interested in a set. we need a measurement though on how much wider out from the stock edge the flare actually is. we were gonna go with bolt on flares and came to fingdout it was only about an inch more in outside width gained which aint gonna cut it for a 10-12 inch rim.