briann510

3000 lbs total weight? wow...I was calling ours a overweight pig at 2410 weighed on Longacre 4 corner digital scales..

not willing to ship them if they are sold.

Our 15x8 with 4.5" BS fit just fine without coilovers but you will have to still roll the fender lip if car is lowered and the edge of tire might hit depending on how much lowered. If you go with 5.5" BS you will have to play with spacers without coilovers. My son was thinking about selling his 15x8 rear and 15x5 front rims/tires while the car is down for the v8 conversion. I'm not sure if he is still wanting to though.

Hey Darius..my son said you were at his work the other day looking to buy some race gas (im assuming maybe for the Z's first outing?) and they were out. He should have told you to stop by our house for some. You better stay out of Concord with that car, as after our one episode with Concord cops and our Z we dont go through there anymore! Man that video is awesome to say the least and gives me some inspiration to get going on my own stuff. We have the 240z, Z06 and SD-455 all waiting for engine and/or blower additions now and just dont have the time. Id rather be goofing off traveling rather than working on cars right now.

When we took our "numbers matching" engine out of our 73 I tossed it. I could care less if its a numbers matching car. Alot of people thought I was crazy and im like who the hell cares, I sure dont. Tear those 240z's apart and V8 em. Collector #'s matching car.. baaaa its only a car.

If in the future you are going to want to throw a supercharger on it, id go with the LSX engine altho you can S/C underhood a sbc pretty easily nowdays also otherwise 383 stroker as we are probably going to do eventually. Its tempting to do a Z06 LS6 or newer LS7 engine, but I can build more hp than a stock LS7 for half the price how I want it and have it sounding mean as hell. I think whatever happens to fall in our lap or someone selling something local I see is spur of the moment buy and thats whats going in it. My son wants to remove the engine out of my Z06 and throw it in...yea right! LOL

There are plenty of places that will pass it with a sniffer only test, you just gotta know where to go. I know quite a few guys every year in several of my different car clubs that pay off people a hundred or 2 bucks to just sniffer and no visual anything. If you dont wanna do that just register it i na zop code that requires no smog inspecvtion at all for any year car...and there are many still in California that require no smog testing within certain counties zip codes. I used to a know a guy that had like 30+ different cars registered at his address for people so they didnt have to smog em.

Yes we are running them... Here is our 240z with Weld Draglite 15x8's with 4.5" backspacing running 235-60 drag radials and 15x5's with 180-60's with stock suspension (altho lowered 1.5" front/back). Rear fender lips were rolled as the sharp edge could cut into top edge of tire if they hit very hard but suspension is pretty stiff and so far for a couple hundred street miles on the tires all is well. but if the car wasnt lowered it wouldnt be a problem at all. Last couple pics show the rear suspension in full squat position with 2 250 lbs people sitting on rear hatch opening. My son might be willing to sell the new rims/tires as the car will be down for a couple years for the V8 transformation. I think $1300 for all 4 wheels/tires was total cost. No spacers at all. I dont think it did, but maybe when the rear disc conversion was done it moved the rotor surface a tad further out than the drum setup thats why we have a little more clearance than some people with same stock spring perches?

Here is our 240z with Weld Draglite 15x8's with 4.5" backspacing running 235-60 drag radials and 15x5's with 180-60's with stock suspension (altho lowered 1.5" front/back). Rear fender lips were rolled as the sharp edge could cut into top edge of tire if they hit very hard but suspension is pretty stiff and so far for a couple hundred street miles on the tires all is well. but if the car wasnt lowered it wouldnt be a problem at all. Last couple pics show the rear suspension in full squat position with 2 250 lbs people sitting on rear hatch opening. My son might be willing to sell the new rims/tires as the car will be down for a couple years for the V8 transformation. I think $1300 for all 4 wheels/tires was total cost. No spacers at all. I dont think it did, but maybe when the rear disc conversion was done it moved the rotor surface a tad further out than the drum setup thats why we have a little more clearance than some people with same stock spring perches?

I ran into the exact same problem with those end caps (and was told by the maker of the adapters to just tighten the adapter nuts and crush the end cap aganst the stub nut which i thought no friggin way!), and between that problem and needing to do some work to the cv axle joints/boots I finally said fugg it and threw the halfshafts back in. It got to the point it was just a PITA and waste of time for me to mess with any further. I have a couple posts a couple months back in links below on the writeup on it all and pictures of me going through it all and trying to rebuild/take apart zxt cv shafts. In the future when it needs it a Vette rearend is going in the car. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116202 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116211

I was running low 10's in 2 of my street cars in the mid 70's. Im sure it its much easier now for everyone to get into the 10's for alot cheper than when I was doing it 30 years ago. And that was with cast crank, rods and pistons, no nitrous.

Ill take one of those. Pm sent

Sumps/fuel cells always have the fittings in the rear, cept maybe a rare case for safety if it were to be rear ended.

So they welded up the sending unit hole also or it on the other side of the finished picture? Im looking to mod existing tank and have the fill tube come out the rear behind the license plate instead of the side as the stock fill door and such will be covered by the YZ flares to be put on. Either mod the stock tank or run a fuel cell which I dont really wanna do for safety sake inside the car in case of being rearended.

I have a 30 gallon 5.5 hp compressor and I can tell you it cant keep up with a cutoff wheel at all. It gets max rpms for about 20 seconds and then its downhill from there. If you are gonna use a grinder or cutoff wheel id be looking at a much bigger compressor than 30 gallons/5.5 hp or an electric one. It works great fo an impact gun, ratchet and hvlp paint gun and thats about it.

If thats it im not worried as I dont care if I have reverse lights or not (never have anyway). Just wondered about any major pounding needed. Thanks

So with the old tranny mounts gone, will a t56 fit in there without having to hammer in the tunnel anywhere? We just pulled our 3.2 stroker out and will need to start gathering info and pics how and what needs grinding and hammering as we will be running a t56 tranny.

For whats its worth I run 3/8 hard line into 3/8 braided in engine compartment that feeds a 525 rwhp carbed Pontiac. Have had no issues for 25 years with that line and using a 14 psi Holley pump deadheaded with no return line (just never got around to putting one on). I know other guys who's engines with similiar or less hp needed a 1/2 line.

Darius is close by us in Walnut Creek. He stops by our house now and then to hang out but I havnt seen him in a while as hes always out riding or making videos and such. I think hes in Australia now promoting his new servinitup he has started there also. Im still trying to get over and see his Z car.

He was going to get a new one. Doesnt look like its gonna happen though. He already has his 2nd R1 Yamaha, his Datsun and can drive my Z06 or other cars anytime he wants, so he really doesnt need another car. Hell we have 8 cars already. Kids I tell ya....go figure!

T56 for sure. Hey, Jason was thinking about getting a WRX and selling just the rolling chassis Z. Is yours black? Give us a shout if it is and you might be selling it. I was over at the Sub dealer looking at them. You can buy your old Z back!

Probably why im gonna go with the ZZ383 stroker 425 hp GM crate engine from the dealer. I talked withthem today and they can pump it up to 500 hp (I thought it was a 45 hp boost with cam change, but apparantly they do a few more tricks to get to 500) and still retain the factory warranty. I know they do stand behind the warranty and since my buddy can warranty it no questions if it does blow up gives me some piece of mind. Not bad for 5K with my discount. Ebay always looks good, but your exactly right about feedback left right away after problems could occur.

You gonna have to go the regular company route then cause of your age. Just make sure you get agreed stated value on the car or they will rip you off if you get in an accident and its totalled.

Been looking at the Chevy crate engines and the top 383 with 425 hp looks pretty close to what we might want and it comes with a warranty. I talked to the parts mgr and he said they can change cams and rockers and get an additional 45 hp for me if I want them to do that and still retain the warranty. Ive been searching and reading up on as many engine combos as there are on here, and just cant pass up buying a crate engine with a warranty. But......has anyone ever bought a crate engine (not one of the Chevrolet dealer crate ones) off Ebay? I see several companies on there that sell them with alot of pos feedback on them. The ol 3.2 stroker is going in a 400lb lighter 70z.

On our 73Z I go through Americans Collectors Insurance (you can deal directly with them on their website for quotes and coverages at http://www.americancollectorsins.com/index.php with full coverage with agreed stated value of $13,500 for $88 per year (yes $88 per year). Of course it has to be driven under 2500 miles a year which is no problem and driver/insured has to be 25 years old but it works for me. Farmers wanted $700+/year full coverage with only a agreed value of what we paid for the car which was $4500. I have a few other collector cars under American and they are all under $100 year for them all. A regular insurance company wont give you squat for the car if its wrecked or stolen.