z_cars_rule

very nice i would love owning that.

If i was in the US i would be there no matter how far i have to drive. Just 2 months ago i drove for 3 days each way to a car show. I wish we had something like that over here for Zs.

can you tell i have never pulled down a L series yet? heheh last motor i rebuilt did run with it 180ed, but ran like a dog. the shaft on that thing was shaped (|) , or a Y shape from side on. oh well. i am more of an RB person anyway.

or the distributer is on 180* the wrong way.

Well i just used the filler hole on the g'box and ran a hose so that i could sit in the car and pour it from the shifter hole location.

My '81 280ZX was scary as hell last time i had it up to speed, It was the last time i drove it with the stock motor, so i thought i would see whats shes got. It had really crappy suspension and a heap of rear toe. I was really stupid and pushed it to 146 MPH. Damn that was fast. Since i have done the RB20 swap i have only had it up to 110mph. Gettiing new suspention very soon, then i will take it to a track and give her a run. And yeah, i get heaps of comments, I had and old guy, probly about 80, call out to me while I was at a park, he said he used to have an '80 model and asked if i could take him for a spin, which i did, he said it made his week . Now with the turbo i turn heads everywhere.

all i can help with is the valve in your vacum line. it is there to only allow a vacum in the brake booster (for the vac assist). I have only seen this on turbocharged cars, now i dont know what motor you are running. In a turbocharged car it stops pressurised air going into the brake boost, which makes it really hard to brake. Have you ever coasted with the engine off and braked a few times? soo how it gets harder, this is because it has lost vacum. sorry for the long asnwer and I hope that is the answer you were looking for.

i want that clip the miniute it is done

i am looking forward to seeing your swap done. looking great so far mate

Yeah i noticed my 280zx was just a lil light at the front when i hit 143 mph with the old motor. not doing that again until i get new suspension and maybe a front lip.

It might be a different story in the S130 though, I have not noticed any increase in understeer, even though i have no powersteering hooked up at the moment.

very nice EMWHYR0HEN, I was originally going to go with the 25DE, but for the same money i got a 20DET. Have you got any dyno numbers or 1/4 times? Also, does anyone have an approximate 1/4 time for me, i am currently using some very sticky 235/65/14s on the back.

The car runs!!! I ended up using an EMS 8860 for the ECU. Running stock boost i pulled 221 rwhp (in shootout mode, so no 'fake' numbers can be produced.) the thing has instant boost, i have not got a working tacho at the moment so i cannot go all out, just play it by ear. I beat a 2005 WRX STi from 80 - 160 kmh, pulled atleast 2 car lengths. when i get some gauges working i will post up a video of it.

i have just finished bolting up my RB20DET into a 1981 280ZX. if anyone has any questions about mounts or the like PM me or search for my thread

i would say for u to go with the 2J, reasons being location of the steering rack for ease of turbo mainfold, parts availibility and bottom end strength

i have a 1981 5 speed have done the following: -full repray -RB20DET conversion -3" stainless dump and 3" stainless straight through -FMIC -Haltech E11 ECU -Heavy Duty clutch expecting around 220rwhp unmodified chassis, skyline mounts. am in the process of: -bigger turbo (Garrett) -GTR or Tomei injectors -brake upgrade (any hints?) -full overhaul of suspension thats about it i think

this would help me too as i am in the middle of the wireing in my conversion

so we have now confirmed it for RB20/25/26 and RB30 blocks. they all have both holes. YAY, i love nissan

to swap mine over, i used a hammer and punch to knock out the brass plug in the rear, then used the pulg to knock out the dipstick from its original position. I did this by lineing it up flush with the bottom of the dipstick (the part in the sump) then used the hammer and punch to knock the dipstick out, i knocked it out most of hte way and then just twisted and pulled it out the remainder, leaving the brass plug in the original dipstick hole. Quite easy to do, oh and the dipstick taps into the rear hole too. Any questions just ask mate

soon i will have pics of the intercooler and exhaust set up

well it looks like I am going to have to wait until the end of January to finish her and get on the road. My tuner has said that he is now too busy to do my work and i dont trust anyone else with the work. This just gives me a chance to clean up then engine bay with new hoses etc.

At the moment i am having problems hooking up the power steering of all things, then it should be getting the exhaust done in 3 days time, then next week off to the workshop to get the ECU wired and tuned.