z_cars_rule

i just have to find a Z31 in the wreckers here somewhere. if i do the coilovers first, i will take plenty of pics for you.

i am looking forward to seeing what you do with the rears. I have already decided on my fronts, i will be going with the hopper stoppers kit. I will also be setting up coilovers in it form an S13, which is going to happen first.

cheers for the input. that is exactly the sort of response i was looking for. looks like it will be Z31 rears and hopperstoppers front with 300mm rotors.

BUMP common guys, some input here would be great, has anyone used any of this stuff before?

i used a steering wheel, you will notice 2 (i think) small holes in the pulley, they are threaded, so all i did was find to bolts that fit in there (had some spare from my Z bolts bin that were perfect). i screwed the bolts in about 1cm, then on the other end i put a steering wheel and some washers so that i could use it as a handle to pull it off. a little stiff but it will come off.

also, it has been found that one of the main reasons for a 7M to blow the head gasket is improper head bolt torque settings from the factory, but still to be safe i would get a metal HG. i would personally rather own a Z31, but that is totally because i am a Z guy. but i still do like the MkIII supras. a Z31 will out handle a MkIII and look better while doing it. perhaps the MkIII might be a bit faster stock for stock, but after every straight there is a corner.

I am considering a few options and need some more info before i make my decision. And yes i have searched, both here and on the net. What is the front rotor size of a Z32? the options i am considering are either a Z31 hub + brake conversion, then upgrade to Z32 brakes on the front, which i believe is easy once you have the Z31 hubs, am i right?. or a kit from hopperstoppers over here in OZ that will give me 300x28mm rotors and twin piston PBR calipers. this kit includes new slotted (DBA) rotors, calipers, pads, hubs, bearings, seals, grease caps, brackets, spacers and hoses all totally bolt on with no mods. either way i will be doing a Z31 rear brake swap and end up with 5 lug wheels all around. i will also be getting a 1" master cylinder that is bolt on and SS braided lines. which option do you think i would be better off going with? Cheers for any input you have.

hey, i completed my RB swap before my 18th birthday. age is not a factor, the biggest thing in a swap is how devoted to it you are. a really devoted person will always find away to get the money, or to make something work. but it will take a lot longer than expected to do something 'different'

i have a thread in the RB section on my convertion with a couple pics, i have a few more pics on my computer, but now that i have done it i realise that i really should have taken more.

yes it was really straight forward. to be completly honest, that hardest part was the throttle setup. I used the 280ZX drive shaft, skyline mounts, 280ZX crossmember, the part i 'slotted' was on the isolators from the skyline, the locating tabs on them are a tab about 1cm wide, where the 280 only had a locating pin as such, so i cut the locating tab so that it would fit in the hole of the 280zx crossmember. add me on msn if you want further info, z_cars_rule[at]hotmail.com i will be driving the car down to canberra in january if you would like to look at it, maybe even sooner if i take a holiday.

where are you located ?

fair enough, but if you are looking for strength, i would stay away from the RB20 box, 25 box sure, but the 20 is not too good at handling torque, which you will have a fair bit of with the L28.

why are you wanting to use a different box? why not use the L28 manual box?

on the other hand, i have an RB20DET in my 280ZX using the RB gearbox, and i still have the standard 280ZX 3.7:1 open wheeler diff. i have found it to be quite a good ratio, i can make 68mph in 2nd, and it does not take long. It is almost never off boost with the standard turbo, i am making around 235rwhp now, and i still pull out of a slow corner in 3rd quite easily. i rekon a 3.9 would be perfect for it, but i am going to keep my 3.7

i went with the 20 because it was $2000 cheaper to buy, and i was not after all out performance from it. now after having done the conversion i am glad i went with the 20 because everything just bolted in, but next time if i have alot more money i would go the 25. I would have to add the extra price for the engine, then money for engine and gearbox mounts. and also a new driveshaft. perhaps i could do the RB25DET conversion into my 260 project that i have sitting in the back yard.

i am running about 12 -13 psi through the stock turbo.

heheh, yes our cows are pretty cool. i will have to wait until i get someone else to be right on the road while i do it again. i think i should also invest in a proper video camera.

any coments are more than welcome.

i just did a 0 - 100km/h run (a bit ober 60mph) in my RB20DET powered 280ZX. I tried to get a video from the side of the road but all you see is me going past in 3rd gear, but you can hear 1st and 2nd. end of second is 68mph (110km/h) from what i see (hear) it seems to be at about 6 seconds or so. i need better vid conversion programs, instead mf my crappy free ones. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7244&cat=509

well i would suggest the RB20DET. i swapped one into my 280ZX and it all bolted up if you get the sump and oil pickup from a 200ZR. and just to top it off, even the stock speedo cable slides straight in and is accurate. on stock boost, just with an exhaust, FMIC and tune i made 220 rwhp. It has amazing response. I have now cranked it up to about 14psi on the stock turbo, which it is quite capable of, and i am loving it. Rolling on to the throttle in 2nd will get both tyres spinning. also, the money you save by going 20 instead of 25 can be spent on a bigger turbo and you can have an easy 300rwhp.

i would love one of those Le Mans engines if you didnt have to rebuild them all the time.

man i want the bentley motor. would be hella fun

have you ever had a R180 sitting next to or near a R200, it is easy to spot the difference. R200 is much squarer looking from behind, where as the R180 is narrower and much more like a rectange.