dr_hunt
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Posts posted by dr_hunt
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Thank you Dr Hunt for that info. I love Travelling, sightseeing, and high definition movies. I like too many things that require good vision to continue wearing glasses which provide glare on everything!
Dr Hunt, did you get Customvue Lasik, or just Lasik?
Customvue
The one thing that always worried me is that i'm very sensitive to light and don't know how I would act during the surgery.Not a big deal, you really see nothing, just smell burning flesh. The dope you up, no big deal.
The flap will heal over time, after a few years it will be normal for everyday life. I do not intend to go skydiving, fly airplanes, or become a boxer.Actually heals in weeks not years.
Really, you ought to go check it out.
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I had that about 2 years ago. I went from 20/25 to 20/10 in both eyes. I could pass a driving test but that doesn't put it into perspective. I had 20/15 in both eyes 20 minutes after the procedure which takes about 3 minutes per eye, about 15 total by the time you count set up and everything.
Well worth it for me, 99 percent of my time is spent outdoors and it is so much nicer to see. 20/10 is almost impossible to get, about 1% of the population has the roundness of the eye capable of seeing 20/10 and 1% of that 1% can actually see 20/10.
Put it into perspective from a seeing standpoint. 20/25 means that at 20 feet I can see what a normal person can see at 25 feet. So at 4000 feet I see what a normal person sees at 5000 feet! Quite a difference. Now look at the change. 20/25 to 20/10. Now I can see things at 10000 feet that I used to could only see at 4000 feet. Now that is one dramatic difference. Now I see animals at distances my friends can't even see them and with binoculars it is even better!!! Well worth the money if you old enough as your eyes change with age and it isn't for the better. I had no issues, night halo or anything and I opted for both eyes being set for distance, don't let them give you the monovision which is one eye for reading and one eye for seeing far. Get reading glasses if you need too. I don't I can read a paper clear across the table, who needs stinking glasses!!
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Code says you have to calculate ground fault currents and load currents to correctly size the wire. It also says that each piece of equipment needs to be properly protected. The air compressor is probably not going to use as much current as the welder so you really probably need two outlets not one, but you could get away with one. The outlet needs to be a 30 amp or larger IMO. I have a 50 amp outlet receptacle.
Ohm the ground buss to make sure it's grounded and every other bit of advice is correct with the exception of the chicago fire.
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Must be comedy night!
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Kids, gotta love 'em! Toughest decision? Hmmm. Well son, always finish what you start!
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Well I could not find any information on the subject and I got to see an engine back in the 90's but I can't remember ever seeing any provision for one. The life expectancy of that engine was 1,500 miles of 10,500 rpm operation at 600 to 780HP depending on displacement and are all NA engines. Some were 4L and some were 3.5L. The 3.5L version had a slightly higher rpm limit of 10,750 I think.
I guess my point is that the 2nd order harmonics are not really an issue even at 10,500 rpm, so at 8,500 rpm it is even more of a non issue for technical purposes. I read where the engine actually went from 2D design to a running prototype in just a couple of months with carillo rods and JE pistons being used. I am not sure about the crankshaft though but they outsourced almost everything.
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One of the more popular racing automatics is the powerglide. It is the easiest transmission to build and the one that is mostly not built right IMO. There are several key things to get right to make it work. Here is my outline for this build.
When you start out take the case and have it cleaned. This one is not all that clean yet, but it has been washed several times in a vat. Drill out the cooler line bosses to 1/4" Pipe. They come 1/8" pipe from the factory and are restrictive to oil flow. Keep in mind you want transmission oil temps to be 175 degrees at a maximum IMO. That requires a stand alone cooler of sufficient size and I recommend running a temp gauge to be sure. Transbrake usage builds a lot of heat because you are shearing the fluid in the converter on the line at stall speed.
If your going to drag race then you will probably use a transbrake. This particular trans is going to get a BTE Pro tree transbrake which is a double dump type brake and is very quick reacting. To install this brake you need to drill three holes, 2 of them here all the way through the case. These are 5/16" holes. They are indicated by the blue wire sticking in each hole.
Then drill out this hole also to 5/16 and intersect one of the others you previously drilled, debur as you can.
I have already installed a new bushing in the back of the case and cleaned all cuttings from the case and holes. Once these modifications are done the only thing left to do is to cut the case if your going to use a safety shield. I am not going to use one so we will have to do that another time.
This is going to be built for well in excess of 900HP so one thing you will need for that is 6 clutches in the reverse pack and 8 to 10 clutches in the high drum. I opted for 10 clutches in the high drum shown here.
This has a billet hub and drum especially made for a 10 clutch application. If you use a stock hub and drum not made for 10 clutchs the bottom clutch will fall off and create a binding problem preventing the high piston from engaging the clutches. When installing the retainer and springs in the high drum alternate the springs 2, 0, 2, 0 and you will end up not using 8 springs. This will allow for a faster high clutch application. A quicker shift if you will.
There are two factory supplied gear ratios for the powerglide, 1.76 and 1.82. The 1.76 gear set was used in the V8 applications, 1.82 was used in the 4cyl and 6cyl applications and is the least desirable of the two. Always use the 1.76 gearset which is identified by the machined unit below.
The 1.82 set looks like this.
Obviously lighter duty stamped steel housing, pretty thin too. If you are going to build 500hp or less then you can use the 1.82 gearset. But in my case this engine will make more than that N/A and it is turbo anyway so we opted for the better 1.76 gearset.
I am waiting for a machined reverse piston, so when that comes in we will detail the rest of the assembly for you DIY'ers.
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Does anyone know of anything in the legal system that this guy can use? This just seems very wrong.
I had a very similar scenario happen to me last fall during a supercharger install. Was quoted at $1800 and a week and a half of labor. It turned into 5 weeks, a failed install, and me bringing the car home for some DIY
You are hijacking the thread. His question was is there another shop as he wants to find one.
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Did the aurora indy engine ever incorporate a balance shaft? The early engines were 90 degree cranks and the later versions were 180 degree cranks in order to change the sound of the engine AFAIK. Also the displacement changed from 4L to 3.5L and I was unaware of any balance shafts used.
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So who has the final say on this.
Ron Tyler does!
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looking at this picture, with it's single balance shaft in the V, as opposed to the I4 twin shafts, got me thinking. I had thought a V8 would need a pair of shafts the same as a I4, but if a single one can work...
Are there any OHC or DOHC V8 heads compatible with pushrod blocks? cases where the manufacturer has gone to OHC but to keep manufacturing costs down use the same basic block design with the camshaft and lifters deleted, but kepping the crankshaft etc the same. In such a case, can a pair of OHC heads be placed on an older pushrod block, and the cam in the valley be replaced with a balance shaft?
It would take some machineing to allow both the OHC timing belt/chain and the balance shaft chain to both come off the crankshft, but it would be simpler than welding on a balance shaft housing onto a block thats not designed with one cast in.
Yes there was some made for the sbc. Check out Eagle dual overhead cam cylinder heads. They were made and sold back in the early '70's.
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As for feedback, let me kind of sum it up. IMO If you or someone else is jacking other members around here, you will be gone. Kind of like a self-eject button where each person is responsible for his or her conduct here. If you abuse that then you can go visit some other site. IMO we don't need a feedback rating cause if it's bad then your outta here.
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For him maybe but for her it probably seems like an eternity!
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+1, Bet it seems like yesterday.
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Cool! Bad news travels fast and furiously, good news rarely gets told. Bringing someone down a notch or two never raises you up a notch or two. I think by and large most of the transactions are on the up and up. I have never had a problem and have bought from several members, some newer some long time members.
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Pretty straight forward actually, if you have the bobweight information then take the crank with that bobweight sheet and get it balanced. If no sheet then take one set of bearings (rod), one rod, one piston, one set of rings and take that down and get it balanced. Some people take the harmonic and flywheel/flexplate also. Depends on how anal retentive you want to be. What that does is tie the flywheel/flexplate to that motor only, not a good idea especially if you have to change flywheels/flexplates later. The balancer only if your using a stock type can you do that.
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The wilwood brakes didn't seem to fit the housing ends right so I had to send the axles and brakes back to get a different setup. Spacers between the bearings and the axle flange to space the axles out 1/4" and different brake mounting brackets. LOL Another $100 in shipping.
Going to start assembling the engine and trans this week, that will take awile and I'll document it with photos.
Left to buy are wheels, 4 link bars, converter and misc little stuff like injectors and fuel rail, fuel pump, BOV, wastegate. I have most everything else.
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I will be following this thread and starting on my project shortly. So far this is good thread info.
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I think that is called Denial. which isn't a big-ass river in eygpt. yeah, that is funny.
As for the question as posed it seems that it is a highly personal question to be asking here so I doubt if you will get alot of responses.
Bottom line is that $$$ spent on beer doesn't end up in the car and IMO the two don't mix well. I know that my best work is not achieved WUI. If you figure a 6 pack a day which is what now $5, that equates to $150 a month or so and after a year is a substantial part of a z car in parts depending on what you buy. And in several years amounts to being able to buy one complete and running.
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I'd verify the block and head numbers then pull the heads and cc the chanbers if the numbers don't match up. IF it is in fact a 365/327, then buy it no matter what. You could play it safe and pull the heads and have them rebuilt with nice bronze guides and harder seats.
No need to pull the heads and cc the chambers as the casting numbers are inside the valve cover. At worst case that is all you need to do and be spot on as to what heads are on that engine.
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The first year model of a car is typically not the one to buy for the reason of potential problems. I don't think 1, 2, or 3 trans failures is a huge deal IMO. Hard launches on a manual trans is going to kill each and every one of them sooner or later I don't care what trans you have unless its a lenco. Most states have the lemon law, we do here, and that kind of stuff doesn't fly here and I doubt it will anywhere where there is the same or similar law.
Here the Ford dealer is having pure hell with their new ford powerstroke diesel engines. He was telling me that they had sold 20 or so 2008's and had 6 back with blown engines all with less than 5000 miles on them. Now I think that is a problem!
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Aw phil, you don't want that POS, ship it to me and I'll fix it, I have a tig in the shop. Chock the $300 bones down to an education and go have a beer.
:lmao:Use the thing one way or the other would you and quit whining.
Kids, gotta love 'em! 
My 2JZ 350Z by Tech 2 Motorsports
in Z33 Series - 350Z
Posted
Nice!!!!