dr_hunt
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Posts posted by dr_hunt
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IMO they both make good power, the SC probably has an edge for street use due to the lack of turbo lag.
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The reason that the counterbalance shafts don't eliminate the second order is because they are not directly connected to the crank, but attached by means of driven gears or chains and the net resultant force is in the block not the crank. It is about felt vibration rather than cancelling out the real vibration.
The point I was trying to make is that in the 4g63 that I built, was stroked also and with fully prepared head, was turning 8000rpm regularly without any problems like bearing failure, crank failure, rod, etc, etc. The aurora indy v8 would do it all day with reliability and I am assuming that in a street vehicle would last considerably longer. I know that nothing lasts forever and this is pretty exotic from any mainstream engine, so there is a price for what you get. IMO this engine is not going to stay at high enough rpm to have 2nd order harmonics come into play when compared to a race engine that lives at that rpm and WOT for hours on end.
Besides, we can bench race all we want but the proof is in the pudding and the real deal will be when it actually runs and we have something as a test bed.
I think this engine is a great idea BTW.
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Oldsmobile Aurora Indy V-8, partially counterbalanced crankshaft, (on the right is the 180 degree variant);
From an engineering standpoint I wonder if the crank like the Aurora configuration actually exhibits 2nd order harmonics in sufficient magnitute to cause any real problems. Just wondering if we are not splitting hairs here cause in the 4g63 that I built here awhile back I deleted the balance shaft, rebalanced the crank and could tell no difference as it was before.
Just a thought here guys.
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IMO that is why there is dirt track racing.
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Well, it's never been huge here, but now it's non-existent.
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Well, typically with a TR you don't get good carb signal in the lower rpm range. Today with the booster design, that is not as much of a problem as it was back in the days. LOL. Just watch the plugs and jet accordingly.
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My guess is that it's needing more fuel, you would be suprised how well tunnel rams fill the cylinders.
Back years ago in the 70's I actually removed the jets from my two 650 holley DP's on my tunnel ram and it ran faster!! Motor was a 355 12.5:1 comp, crower solid cam, extensively ported 292 angle plug heads in a ford pinto.
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I am a little suprised that you didn't pick up more mph and a little ET. Sounds to me like you need some tuning.
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Welcome to the oil patch. The works dirty but the moneys clean. My advice is to still get your EIT and PE. You might never need them but it will help in your advancement through your carrier. You might have a little trouble with the PE as far as having PE sign for your experience with Schlumberger. But once you get into the oil patch there will be a lot of opportunities down the road.
Good Luck
Wil
Good luck I hope that works out for you. I don't know how it is now but when I was there back in the 90's it was impossible to get your PE there because there were no PE' working at that time to be working under. To further complicate things the PE exam is so very different in technical issues from what your doing that I as a PE would not sign for you since I know what you will be doing and it is not related to normal disciplines.
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First, thanks for your answers!
I would go for the 9 but it is pretty expensive over here, almost dubble the 10bolt, in "ready to run spec".
What exactly is the weak point in the 10bolt?
My point is, when it is set up with new axles and diff, "Strange" for example, its practically same parts as in the 9? Unless I use big sticky tires on the strip I cant see any reason it will break so much easier?
In the vid where the tire and drive-axle falls of it is because of the c-clip. It's a easy problem to fix, when uppgrading the axle.
Thanks for the 9" length info!
The problem with the 10 bolt is the flex in the housing. The pinion gear tends to separate from the ring gear under high loads. The 9 inch is not that much bigger diameter, less than 1/2 inch, but is much stronger due to the extra bearing on the end of the pinion gear which keeps the two gears closer together.
C clips are a big no no for most forms of racing, the 10 bolt in a z would probably fair better than it does in most of the heavy cars it came in IMO. It is not just a function of HP, but weight of the car your trying to move.
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Pretty cool stuff!
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Damn you guys must be following me on vacation too!!
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The 10 bold will hold up for awhile, but if your going to run some sticky tires and do hard launches it won't be around for long.
There are other options, take a peek in the drivetrain sticky section on rear diffs. Several members have gone that route, self included. The 9 is so simple and works so well it is the obvious choice that is practical.
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I'd bid 100,000 but I know some of you have deeper pockets than I do.
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remove the passenger seat if possible. along with spare tire, jack, beer cans......
Beer Cans!!!!????
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Well, you can't beat cubic inches for a street motor that is going to last. Count on 1 to 1.25 hp per cubic inch IME. IMO you want to build a 406 or 421 with 9:1 compression and decent iron heads like the dart iron eagle heads and a decent hydraulic or hyd roller cam. Preferrably the hyd roller with about 230 or 240 on the seat at .050 and .550 lift or so. That will net you 500+ HP on pump gas. My 406 with 9:1 hypers, 350 rods, stock crank, dart 200 heads, performer dual plane intake, q-jet carb and an isky flat tapped hyd cam 236 duration at .050 and .510 lift made 442FWHP based on 1/4 mile trap, ET and weight at our cheezy 6000ft elevation. That is around 500hp at sea level.
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And speaking of being off the deep end, Where is the vw powered unicycle?
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I'll settle for beer!
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Jeff still owes me money, $200, that I sent to him paypal by mistake 1 year ago. Whats up with that?
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OMFG! That is too funny! How did you find out?!?!!
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Just FYI, catalytic converters have a design lifespan of 5 years.
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That is not chevy engine so I moved it to the appropriate forum. The 403 is an oldsmobile engine that has a questionable bottom end design in the main web area. Not suited to high rpm usage but more of a medium performance engine IMO up to about 500HP which is pretty stout in most books as long as you keep the rpms under 6k.
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But back to fireproofing, the Fort Knox is a fire brick like substance, same refractory they use in furnace linings. What it does it prevent the heat of a house fire from transferring to the interior.
It has a time rating, as I recall mine withstands 3000F for 45 minutes without the interior exceeding 180F. Which means plastic survives, most everything that wouldn't be damaged sitting on your dashboard would be safe in there. I doubt my house would take 45 minutes to burn, so I figure I'm safe.
What he said. Yes it is a refractory lining like a furnace has. No dehumidifier necessary in my climate but they make a plug in model (there is a hole in the floor of most gun safes) that you run the cord through to plug in. Good idea up where your at.
Centrifugal SC vs. Turbo?
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
I think what he is getting at is a broader tq range with the sc than with the turbo, which in most cases is true depending upon turbo selection. It is hard to have your cake and eat it too. IMO either would be fine and both have pro's and cons, the sc is probably easier to install although not cheap. It is going to cost money to go fast.