SUNNY Z

LOL yeah well The speed limit is only 50 on that road. And there are different gear sets available, but the 5/6 is the same (until you get to the new 'vette TR6060) i believe. The MN6 T56 from the gto has a numerically higher 1-4 gears. Here ya go http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1361842-gear-ratios-tr6060-vs-t-56-a.html and http://www.tremec.com/performance/t56.html

lookie what I found!

Here is a little photo shoot my buddy did with his DSLR last night. http://www.kcsr.org/showthread.php?t=121609

I'm moving to Des Moines, Iowa in July or August. When is Z fest? I see you have a monster in your car. Best clutch for the money IMO. Well the Z left me stranded yesterday. As it turns out, 200* coolant WILL distort schedule 40 PVC. I had a small piece in a hose so i could clamp a larger hose over it. It distorted on a 2nd gear pull, and let loose, spewing coolant everywhere. I was able to put a piece of steel pipe in it, and clamp it enough to get to a gas station. There I met a really cool older guy who gave me a ride to a Tractor Supply store for some more clamps. Turns out he was a hot rodder himself! He had a 71 el camino, but loved my car none the less. Of course i had to take him for a rip after he helped me out! Prior to the stranding, I weighed the car. It had about a half tank of gas, but tipped the scales at 2750# . And it feels like it! Holy cow these light cars can get with it. I had to re-wire my electric fan because it kept popping fuses (taurus fans draw massive current). Other than that, I've just been driving the hell out of it! LOVE IT. I have put about 50 miles on it since the speedo was calibrated, probably about 100 overall. Such a gas to drive. Speaking of gas, apparently I cross-threaded my vent tube hose, and boogered my aluminum AN fitting - Because it leaks when the tank is full and the car is to that side. I'll probably try to find a die to chase it with, or just put a piece of rubber hose there instead.

For sure. There's talk of going up to the test and tune on friday. I'd just be there for spectation though, not gonna leave an axle shaft on the track the day before our big cruise lol. I'll let you know.

I'll probably rock one when I go on drag week here in a couple years. Lets see em!

Thanks! I do my best! I live in Manhattan. So, northeast KS. Two hours west of KC. And I'll actually be headed your way! I'm moving east. The car is very docile at idle, but is pretty throaty when you're gettin it. I'll try to get some videos made either this week or this weekend, depending on what my schedule does.

So, as I assumed I would have to, I raised it up about 1.5". Its low, but quite drive-able. I took it to my good friend, and lsx swap king aknovaman. He had a tune flashed to it, and we were on the road in less than a couple hours. I can't thank him enough! This means that I'll make our annual cruise next weekend!! I've put about 30 miles on it so far, and gave it its first bath in nearly two years. Here are a couple pics I snapped before putting it to bed. . It still needs some small things, but the major stuff is taken care of! Here's a quick vid of it running that aknovaman took

Well it started and ran for about 20 minutes today, went to eat, and it won't start now. But its mechanically complete, so I put it on the ground. And this happened. This is as low as she goes. It trapped my 3.5" floor jack under the frame rail.

Well I had to order a new FPR from speedway. It will be here tomorrow. Well aside from wheels, and the new FPR, she's ready for the road!

Well it RUNS! ... Kinda. I had to bottle feed it for a while, thought i just had air in the line. Still wasn't getting enough fuel, so I borrowed a gauge. 5 PSI.... Obviously that wouldn't cut it. SO i proceeded to cover myself in gasoline taking off the pump and filter, only to diagnose and find that the regulator was the problem all along. Plumbed it straight, 80+ PSI. So I'll be looking for another corvette fuel pressure regulator tomorrow, and hopefully be on the street! Das it.

Worked on the car a bit yesterday. Got some fluid to the brakes (gravity bleed - still waiting on an assistant to bleed them). Installed my Wilwood Proportioning Valve Got the fuel tank back from being fixed, hooked it up, put gas in it, tried to fire the motor. It chugged for a few seconds - did this about 2-3 times. I suspected one bank was dead - I was right. I traced the wire for the passenger's coil / injectors and found that it was broken about 18" from the coil pack connector.... just another s h i t t y solder job from whoever did the harness before I got a hold of it. Sucks too because i checked continuity on EVERY wire before i wrapped it. Fired it again, but to no avail. I've been talking with my buddy who does a lot of swaps to try and get this thing going today.

I took the steering wheel off, and all the plastics surrounding. Its still a squeeze to get it out without beating it up though. Basically just the wheel, and all the supports and the defrost panel are all that's needed. If you have a haynes / chiltons manual its in there.

It was leaking on the rearmost tack weld that holds in the baffle. He's making good on it though. I'm having it fixed locally, and he said to send him the bill - the right thing to do. No real complaints other than that.

Its about like t i t s on a board. Great to look at it, but what can you really use them for? ( . Y . )

I'm sure it was done with a CNC plasma, waterjet, or laser. I vote waterjet.

Not a fan. Looks a bit gaudy to me. Opinions are like a s s holes though.

Excuse me, the 3.75" measurement was from the bottom of the fender (center front to back), and of course it tapered out from there.I actually cut 2.75-3"

That picture is deceiving. The tire actually tucks under the flare, and can turn full lock to lock without touching. It will need to come up some. I mounted the top of the flare 3.75" above the center of the spindle. The camber in those pictures is about stock. I just installed camber plates, so that's where the camber is from.

Thanks. I've always enjoyed metal work, and I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so I was happy as well. Thanks Dave The hole isn't really that discouraging to me, its just one more thing that I shouldn't have to deal with. It will literally take one touch of a TIG torch to fix, but in the meantime I had to drop the tank (which was covered in gas) so naturally so was I, and then drain said gas, and now I have to wash the tank out and have it re-welded. Hopefully the shop will do some kind of monetary refund for my added effort..... And yes, the speakers are one of the previous owner's "clean installs" I'm more worried about getting it on the street than the stereo, but that will get addressed eventually. On another note, I got the rear flare "nutserts" installed, more painting here and there, installed the passenger's side interior, started cutting welting for the flares, and most importantly CLEANED MY SHOP. I can now walk front to back without bobbing and weaving.

Well i got a good amount done today. Camber plates front and rear Got my fuel tank installed ONLY TO FIND IT HAD A FECKING HOLE IN IT so someone will be getting a phone call on monday. no excuse for that as much as i paid for it and as long as i waited. That's pretty much it. There's a monster thread in suspension and chassis about the camber plate install for those who are interested.

You have to do some serious trimming up front. Kiss your side markers goodbye, and prepare to cut whatever bumper or air dam you have. This is with 1-2* of camber I went ahead and put it out to 5*, so I need to cut some more of the bumper. This is about ride height, maybe a little low. Tires are Yokahama S-drives 275-40-17

Well I did a good amount of searching on the site before I posted this, so hopefully someone can find ths information useful. Here’s my install thread for Techno Toy Tuning (T3) weld-in camber plates. Tools required: - Ball peen hammer - ~4# sledge hammer - Chisel - Center Punch - 4†grinder with wire brush, cut-off wheel, and grinding wheel - Misc Metric sockets - Sharpie (or other marking method) - String (I used electrical wire) - Plasma cutter / torch - Welder (MIG) - Drill with ~3/8†drill bit - Fender cover (or a thick sheet you care nothing about) - Clips to hold up said cover ^ I’ll start with the rear, as that’s where I started. I started by removing the plastic on top of the strut towers. After that, I went to the seat belts. Remove the 17mm bolt first, which will allow you to get the mechanism out of the way, then the 12mm to move the plate. I peeled back the vinyl and used a razor blade scraper to scrape it off the strut tower to keep from tearing it. Once you get the interior pieces out of the way, (which required the removal of the hatch struts), Start by running wires from side to side, between the two bolts you just removed. This will allow you to properly line up the camber plates, so you can mark them as to where to cut. This is where you mark them with a sharpie or similar marking device. I might add that the little "nipple" in the center of the strut tower needs to be removed so the camber plates will sit level. About now is when I would suggest adding a sheet or fender cover between the hatch area and the rest of your interior (if you care- I DO) I soaked my fender cover in water, rang it out, and hung it up using some small little clips. This will HOPEFULLY keep it from catching fire – however, whenever I’m welding or cutting I like to have someone on fire patrol. Once this is done, you will need to drill out the spot welds on top of the thin layer of sheet metal (4). To make this simple, I like to use a center punch to mark them so my bit doesn’t walk. Then use the cutoff wheel on your grinder, or pneumatic cutoff tool, and cut ¼†to ½†past the line you marked toward the outboard of the car. This will be a straight cut, and it will allow you remove that thin piece of sheet metal so you can get the camber plate flush with the top of the tower. After this is done, Use a hammer and chisel to remove the piece. If you drilled out the spot welds correctly, this should be a simple task. There is also a small tab on the very inboard side of the strut tower that I removed (not sure if its visible in the pics). I then used the same wire / string method used above to line up the CP’s again, and re-trace the outline. Now is a good time to find a friend with a plasma cutter lol. After you have your sharpie outline, take a ruler and mark ½†in from the outer edge of your outline. This will be the line you will cut. I didn’t get a picture of this. I then cut out this section with the plasma cutter, and looked at the camber plate, cut a little more until I couldn’t see the strut tower through the camber plate. Since the strut tower isn’t exactly the size of the plate, I had to cut off a corner (front) to make it fit right. Don’t throw these corners away, as they can come in useful in a bit. After they were cut out, I put in the wires for reference, and measured, eyeballed, tacked measured, moved, etc. until they were perfect. It can be a bit tedious, and I had to get IN the hatch to do this, but they turned out well. Here is one of the rears after being burned in I then ground the top down, and smoothed it out. Now on to the fronts! These were a bit easier, as I didn’t have to contort myself. I took off the fenders to get at the strut towers better, and measured 8†from the rear of the little seam that has the fender mounting nut inserts in it. Then I strung a wire from side to side to use as a reference Here’s a better shot of the alignment. I only used the 8†measurement because that’s where I could get a good line. This might differ year to year or car to car. Then I massaged the tops of the towers with a 4# sledge until the plate fit well. This is where that corner from the rears comes into play. It just worked out perfect on mine that I could weld it under the front corner to take up the gap. If I had a torch, I would have just heated the plate corner and bent it to fit. However, I was using limited resources. Its not PERFECT, but its easily do-able, and this is where it wouldn’t rock at all. Here’s the front after it was welded, ground, and smoothed. I use a worn out flap disc on my grinder. It works well and gives a nice smooth finish. I ended up having a few little indentions that would have been hard to fill with a welder, so I threw on a thin layer of bondo. You can also see where I cut out the little fender lip so I could weld the backside of the plates Here’s the rears painted, and trimmed the interior a bit. Hope this helps some people, as I was just kinda flying by the seat of my pants on this one.

Front fenders / air dam are trimmed this is ride height-ish. maybe a bit low

I won't even have 10 in mine when its all said and done, and I have done A LOT more than I intended. Its easy to do an LS swap for under 5K if you play your cards right. SBC for a whole lot less