SUNNY Z

Thanks guys! Well I finally was able to steal away from the harvest field to work on my car... it rained! (first time since april - pretty big deal if you farm) So this is what I started working on: CFJ Stub axles and companion flanges, M2 Z31 Axles, 84 Z31 Turbo diff and axles. I got everything disassembled - pretty quick job thanks to the tutorials on here Then i popped the cover off the diff to check things out and add some clutches.

At least around here, it costs $50 to have one shortened, and 25-50 to have one balanced, depending on material. IMO you'd be better off going with the JCI unit from the git go.

WHY would you ever notch anything just to make clearance for exhaust? You completely killed the totally RIGID "frame" of your car. Best start over, try again next time. Looks excellent! What was used to cut the hole in the body? Are there going to be mufflers, or boom tubes, or anything of the sort? If I ever did this, I think I'd try to put a beauty ring around it in stainless. I really like that look. http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/180915_1768002634394_5033574_n.jpg

I guess this is where I post that I have over 1100 trouble-free miles on my swap!

Yep..... unless he randomly has someone helping him..... I agree, not the best business model.

LOL I bet he has tons. Kinda makes me wish I'd left my car stock height......

I know for a fact that Blake is going to Tennessee today with some speed boat exhaust parts that he's been fabricating. Had to hand deliver them because of the deadline. I would guess he's been busy on that (not an excuse as to why some ppl don't have their headers).

I haven't... yet. Hopefully this summer I'll have a weekend to get some time-only's in at the track. I'll remember you if I'm ever headed that way! Buying the last of the rear end pieces tomorrow, and then I have to wait for my custom axles to show up.... So that will likely be another week or two. Oh well, too busy working right now to touch the car. Here are my 4130 chrome moly 39 spline billet stub axles and companion flanges. And since my buddy needed his welder back, and I am without a truck at the moment....

Ktm is right. It might take you an extra month of straight reading, but it will save you 3 in the long run. Plus, then you will actually know the stuff instead of just getting an answer and moving on to the next problem.

That "plug" is your MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. Definitely NOT ditch-able. I can't think of the other thing off the top of my head, but i'm pretty sure it has to do with emissions. I know I don't run one on my swap. hope that helps.

WORD. I was getting to the point of not even wanting to do anything with my car, because i was sick or working on it. Now that its together, I don't want to put it under the knife - though that 560 horse H/C/I ls1 on the stand is calling my name lol. Gotta get the rear end stuff done first

I would look into doing a remote bleeder on the t56 slave - It will make your life easier in the future. Looking good! and on the stub axles, i'm at the mercy of chequered flag joe. As soon as they're here, it'll be shortly after that they're available

I have never heard of an engine management system that doesnt use knock sensors...... How will you know how much timing to give it?... I wouldn't sweat the pistons having kissed the valves. VERY common to float the valves with over-revs on these motors. Thats why I would NEVER put a motor together with the stock valve train. Its too cheap of insurance. Do yourself a favor and buy some upgraded valve springs, seats, seals, retainers, and some stock length (7.400") chrome moly pushrods. If my big boy stub axles would get here I'd sell you my 280 stubs.. till then I'll be driving on them. I am probably the largest non-fan of the JCI setup that there is. I feel that the mounts are garbage - all of them, especially the trans mount. Is it work-able? Yes. It is pretty? No. I've heard of lots of (240) guys ripping the floor pan with this mount though. A note on the pilot bearing - DONT USE IT. Use a bushing instead. If your pilot bearing goes bad, then it WILL take the input shaft of your tranny with it. I've used bushings forever, no problems. Just change it when you do a clutch change. ANY sbc pilot bushing will work (69 camaro is my go-to) /novel

Well some bad news. I got into a little fender-bender in my truck (literally right in front of my house). She was speeding, I had the sun in my eyes, and got distracted as i was turning = boom. The only thing i kept thinking was "thank god this wasn't my 280". I drove my truck home ( a whole half block) but the jeep cheroke didn't fare so well. It had to be towed, as it was balled up pretty good. No injuries to either party. As a result, I'll be DD'ing the 280 for a while. Looks like I WILL have to fix that U-joint in the rear end because all my upgrade parts won't be here for a while. Other than that, I'm about to roll over 500 miles on the conversion, and only some small rattles that I haven't tracked down yet are my only problems.

That seems unnecessary. I would just go to NAPA and buy two male-male brake fitting unions. Simplifies the system, and cleans up the engine bay. I used one when I installed my prop valve. See it chilling there below the valve?

Cool time lapse. However, the prices are largely inflated on a lot of it.

Just adding a proportioning valve to the rear won't solve your issue. Proportioning valves are used to keep the rear from locking up before the fronts, and sending you into a spin / crash. Sounds to me like you need to service your drums. (I'm told) that a properly serviced set of rear drums will do a good amount of braking. However, Simply upgrading the fronts and leaving the rears alone is not a good idea. I went with a BMW setup up front, and 240sx in the rear. I have a similar problem, but its not THAT noticeable. When I stand on the brakes, my fronts lock up, but the rears don't. This is with the prop valve all the way open. Truth be told, I need more rear brake, and then tone it back down with the prop valve. There's tons of info on this stuff in this section, but sometimes you have to do a little digging. Pull your rear brakes apart, and see whats going on in there - at least thats where i'd start. That may not be the end-all solution however.

I have a pump and holley regulator I'd sell you pretty cheap. Pump is a Bosch. LMK and I can get you a picture. It was working perfectly when I upgraded for my LS1 swap.

Yep, tried to email him. I have enough uncertainty and headaches in my life right now. I'd rather do something I KNOW I can get parts for, and in a reasonable time frame.

After a quick chat with Jon, I think I too am going to go with the Z31T differential. Although I've already sourced the Q45, I think that it would be more cost effective, and also just plain easier to do a z31. I didn't realize the z31 was a longnose diff. Thats great, because that saves me getting a new driveshaft, and front mount, and cuts time off the swap.

So is there a possibility of the Z31 T axles that Jmortensen sells fit in a Q45 CV shaft? Can anyone give the specs on the two axles? I've read somewhere that the Q45 axles are 12" per side, but I don't know the spline count or diameter or where the c clips are or any of that business. However, I think IF i could get the specs on the q45 axles, I could just call up Moser, and get a set made. I'm going to try them later today if I remember. I'd like to get this little project done so i can DRIVE my car instead of baby it everywhere....

WOOT. You'll love it. Looking forward to following this one. Also, I must pay respect to the cobra in the garage. I like dat one too. Paint scheme is great - I walk past a WW2 memorial on campus every day, and I've wanted to take a picture with my 280 next to it forever. haha keith good timing

Thats some good info, but still tells me nothing about how thick, diameter, placement? Obviously there are tons of ppl using this setup, someone please chime in!

THIS. Does anyone have a line on these? I'm having to baby my car around at the moment, and I would prefer to not have to wait on MM to reappear from nowhere..... Just dropped a line to Gabe at TTT, hopefully he can help.

I agree with the above statements. Again, this is just my experience with LS engines talking. Its a whole different game with you L series boys