SUNNY Z

Got to drive / rip the car for the first time yesterday..... Very impressive to say the least. I might try to get some video today later.... Its a blast.

So, This? This is what happened to mine. (ruined one on left) Keith, after I inspected the welded diff, It had no issues, so I put fresh oil back in it, and installed it. So, yes, I do have it back on the road. And WOW, it is a torque MONSTER. I was amazed how well it actually did hook up. It blows the 275's off pretty good from a 20, hooks, hit second and they're ablaze again. It spins through most of second, but REALLY goes in third

I just wanted to pop in here real quick and say that jon and i spoke earlier, and i gave him some measurements. We determined that my drivers side shaft was indeed too short. I had 1.5" between the companion flange and the outer edge of the cv. I then ( per jons recommendation) put the stock z31 drivers shaft. I then measured the gap again, and had just over 1/4" , which may not be ideal, but it does work, as i took it for a test drive after, with no ill effects.

Spoke with Jon just a moment ago, and we are diligently trying to determine the cause of this issue. Impeccable customer service.

Little back story: LS1 / T56 280z Chequered Flag racing 39 spline stub axles & companion flanges Z31 Turbo cv shafts M2 shorter shafts Welded R200 Car is pretty low approximately 450# of passengers and equip @ the time Got these all installed, took it to the tuner, and he took it out for some data logging. He rolled into it at about 30, and at about 6K the car took a hard left, nearly lost control, and then made horrendous sounds while turning. Took it apart today, and found that the outer CV on the driver's side had "failed". What happened was the inner star part of the cv (splined, fits on shaft) had been forced too far onto (inboard) the shaft, and stayed there. It was approximately 1/8" too far on. This then caused the cv assembly to pull out of the "cup" and ruin the boot. Here's the kicker - The car was only powering 1 wheel afterward (passenger). I took the rear apart, and the welds are intact, and both shafts turn when one turns. The cv was in otherwise great condition, and no other damage (including the passenger axle) was present. I am super confused, and have no other ideas on this. Maybe the shaft bottomed out, and caused this, maybe???? Idk Here's a pic of the shaft - you can see where the star piece worked its way onto the shaft.

I was looking at doing a box as well, but probably on the driver's side rear, behind the strut tower. I think I could make one that fit snugly to the fender, and not lose much cargo space... Looking good. I'll be interested to see the final product.

Thanks, but I went with Z31T shafts. Now if only i had an accompanying diff.....

The chequered flag pieces are brilliant. USE ANTI-SEIZE when installing the new nuts Don't ask me how I know.

Right on. Re-wired my stuff yet again, so that should work. Dropped the car off at the tuner's house today. He's going to work on it when he has time, and drive it back to me on sunday! Yi Yi! Very excited!

There was nothing wrong with the 5.3, I just wanted a little more power. Also, I'm going to be moving in about 10 days, and I wanted to make sure and get it done while I had a place to do it. I'll be living out of a hotel in IA for a couple weeks before I can move into my apartment. Still no luck on the CLSD.... though i have a full set of clutches for one.. That is crazy hot for CO. Its been 100+ here everyday, with 50-80% humidity. Sure makes for some good lake weather though! On the relays in parallel, did you use two relays per speed, or only use the high speed with two relays? Thanks

Well two of the four boots showed up today. I had a bit of an issue with one of my stub axles when I was installing it. I must have gotten a bad axle nut, and it destroyed the threads on my stub axle. (yes its crazy, and no i didn't cross thread it). I had to take it off with a torch because my friend's 1" impact wouldn't budge it. Other than that, Things are going ok. I got the new motor all in, and diagnosed the one small issue i had with the e-fan (cooked the high speed relay) - The moral of this story is, don't use a Taurus fan. It pulls around 50+ amps when the LOW speed kicks on, and it cooked my 60A relay on the high speed. Little picture of the new engine all nestled in. New specs: 346" LS1 11.4:1 CR AFR 205 heads Fast 90 Intake Nick williams 92mm TB Vengeance Racing VRX4 Cam - 228/230 .588/.592 on a 112 TEA dual gold valve springs ARP head bolts LS2 timing chain LS6 Oil pump This engine (minus the 90/92) went 11.5x in my 3500# camaro. It should be up 25-30 horse from there since it was choked pretty bad up top. It would be an absolute embarrassment if this engine didn't make 450++ rwhp, and nearly that much tq. Plus, it will be losing ~80 # from the aluminum block, which puts me under 2700# . Dis gon be fun. Thats all for now. I'll get my axle back from the machinist on thursday, and hopefully have everything else in order that I can push it onto a trailer and take it to the tuner's. I've only been waiting to do this for two weeks now....

+1 Flowmaster makes a nice true merge

I had to take a BFH to the top of that box that houses the T/C rod body side mount. Mine fits "OK" but its a far cry at quality from many of the kits out there....

Thanks Keith, but I just ordered a new set. Dave, I was in the middle of banding those boots when I called you. I came back to the house and on here, and found my answer. Everyone else, Its not that I don't like the ratio, I don't like the spooled effect.

MAN i could throw something right now. Seems like every time i fix one thing, i find 6 more wrong. I was banding my cv boots today, and noticed that one of them had split like an inch! ... So i guess i'll be ordering a whole set. On a better note, the engine and trans and DS are in, rear struts are ready to go back in, basically all I'm waiting for is my 92mm throttle body, and i guess now some CV boots. I cleaned the old ones up really nice and inspected them... no flaws whatsoever, so i thought i could use them. I was wrong. The whole rush is that my tuner has a VERY limited time frame, and the longer i push it back the more likely i'll have to go somewhere else, which is a no go in my book. Not to mention I'm going to Des Moines to look at places to live on monday, and still need to go back to my parents' place 3 hours away to sign loan papers for my truck!

Just curious to what point the r200 CLSD and other options can be pushed before you run into breakage issues. The car is a H/C/I LS1 with a 6 speed that will make 450-475 wheel N/A. I just don't want to spend all my time and resources with an R200 diff if i'm going to have issues. The car will be driven how I intended. Hard.

Well I got the 5.3 out, swapped all the accessories, oil pan, valve covers, etc, installed the engine and transmission in just under 8 hours. Theres probably a good hour or two to get everything buttoned up, but the hard stuff is done. I still am looking for a Z31 CLSD, if anyone knows where to find one.... I have run into dead ends, cant even locate one now. Also, where can I buy a GOOD tool for putting CV boot clamps on? The POS that the parts store sold me is a no-go.

Surprise! I decided I wanted to put the LS1 in while i had time/ space. took all of 90 minutes to get here, just need my cherry picker back... loaned it to a friend doing a turbo 5.3 lsx swap.

Don't rub it in! I'm gonna take another stab at getting the axles out today... hopefully be a little more fruitful.

Sounds like a good time! Get some video if you can!

This is more of the tool I was referring to: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Economy-CV-Joint-Clamp-Banding-or-stapping-Tool-with-stainless-cv-joint-bands-/130620347331?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item1e699453c3&vxp=mtr#ht_1605wt_1270 I'm going to get back to this project later this afternoon. Going to get my new truck tinted here in a few, and then on to the sound system! (priorities, right?) I tried the chisel method yesterday with no luck. My exhaust is all up in that area, so that might have to come off. I'm just hoping that when i had a friend weld my spider gears that the axles didn't get welded in as well? Time will tell.

Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to look for another z31t diff though. I can find one cheaper than any carrier i could buy. Plus, I already have the clutches for the upgrade... On the upside, I got my M2 axles together today... whew, what a mess. I still need to get the clamps secured, but i need a better tool to do it with. ? I then tried to get the axles out of the diff, but they weren't cooperating..... any suggestions? I tried to use pry bars, but i'll get a slide hammer tomorrow if i have to.

Sweet, I appreciate it. Well I should at least be able to get that done today then, until i find another z31t diff. ... To the shop!

No. But i'm super pissed that i payed $150 for it.... from a junk yard... so i cant return it. I realize its an open diff, but it has a 3.54 ratio? I checked it last night after i saw what it was. Question: Will the 300zx axle shafts work in my stock 78 r200 diff? Because i have that part of the conversion ready to assemble, along with the stub axles and companion flanges. At least that way i could get rid of the bad u-joint sounds... even if the diff will still be bitching at me. Any help please?

WELL it appears that there's been a mis-communication somewhere. This diff isn't a clutch LSD. ... ... ... SO idk what i'm gonna do. Anyone know what this is?