BluDestiny

I will fit on manual steering. I had one on before. I then switched to the 3-2 design to keep it closer to the block and higher up in the tranny tunnel. I do have manual steering also. I don't think it would fit with the early power steering box. At least not without bashing it up.

You can can hardwire the start with a relay also. Most people do that anyway to save the steering stalk wiring anyway. I think the issue might be something to do with your auto trans start feature. I don't know anything about what conditions need to be met to start an auto trans, but I'm sure it has a park feature. It could be from how it's wired.

Well my datsuns still outnumber my Subaru 2:1. They just aren't as comfy.

Rota's, I'm in for a cheap staggered rbr set.

I believe Pat1 on this site makes customs ones. For pretty cheap also.

Yeah the other will be coming out as soon as I get some heat treated replacements. Hopefully in two weeks or so. Just going to and from work on it now so I can't complain. My future option would be The cusco version. It has a much shorter shank on it. Only issue I have is that it has a pillowball/heim joint which knocks me up a class. These arms were the only ones I could find with that much adjustment with a urethane bushing to Keep me in street prepared.

If you don't have the AAR, I would just do away with all those lines. If it's just not connected, I would hook it back up.

if you have a 5spd Z then it's probably a 71b, as the 71c's started to show up in the z31 300zx. Generally with those two options, you also take out the guess work of possibly getting something that won't work. You can get even cheaper if you find out the ID and OD of all the bearings and order direct, but who wants to go through all that trouble. The transmission shop should also have some sort of lookup that you might be able to use or have him do the research for a little bit extra.

So this is going in this board because this component was actually on my subaru. This is a rear camber arm, specifically the drier side. I bought the arms in march/april, so it's only been about 6-7 months. I have done 4 track days on them and several autox sessions. Also about 8k road miles going to a from the track and around town. This break happened when I was going up a friends driveway where I lifted the inner passenger rear wheel (all the weight then going on my driver rear wheel). The owner called me about 30 min after I submitted an email to them about the snap. He said he's been seeing a lot of problems specifically with that batch and he is thinking it's from an improper heat treating cycle. I believe he said this is chromoly. What he has done is send me one that has not been heat treated yet (just so I can get to and from work since this is my warm car), and will be sending out another pair once he gets tham back from heat treating. So all in all I'm satisfied with the customer service. This picture shows how it snapped on the car and here are some closeups. I have sent the part back after I got a new part The break happened right at where the lock nut was set, and all the lock nuts were tight as I have just checked them 3 weeks ago after my last track day. Again, I'm just looking for input as to whether this part was improperly abused (which means I'll need to upgrade) or if the design is not optimal (it does have a longer adjustment bolt than most other kits which I think puts more stress on that specific area)

Should be firing it up within the next two weeks.

He does very clean work. He's also a member on this site. 240zhoke I believe.

That still doesn't make sense. you had to have gotten a 240z or early 260z valance since it has the cutouts for the turn signals. the 280's didn't have that cutout so that could explain the difference. Where did you get the valance at?

It's always fun to do things like that. Did you take it down to bare metal?

There really isn't a way for the ZX without putting in baffles or some type of foam stuff to keep the gas in one area one the tank is low. A surge tank will help, but you can still potentially starve it and still run low. Is accidentally bashing your tank so the low point is near the pickup allowed?

Yeah I would assume the gauge is just finally starting to go. You can pretty easy hook up a T split and throw an oil pressure gauge on there and check it while at idle.

Cutting a lowering spring would be just as detrimental if done wrong. Cutting a stock spring can also be done the right way. I'd start by swapping out the springs with shorter 240z springs. That would be the most painless.

You'd use the flywheel and clutch designed for the bellhousing if you can. As for the oil pan, Pat1 is on this site and does custom oil pans for members here. You send him a stock oil pan and he mills it off and build a custom rear sump. I'd personally go with Mckinney, because I've had to modify enough CX racing products that I know they are probably going to be problematic from the get go. I just got a wiring specialties harness for my 280zx getting an SR20 swap, and all I have to say is that everything plugged in. Haven't started it yet so not sure if it works, but it looks great.

What is the stamp on the cylinder head? I can do local pickup on the head and carbs this weekend. I'll even paypal you now to hold them. Just need to know the stamp near the spark plugs.

That orange plastic you describe sounds like the brake light plastic switch stop. Are you're brake lights stuck on now?

well I have 1000cc's on my subaru right now and I'm at like 85% duty cycle for full throttle. and I'm at 340whp. I'd tell you to size up to at least 850. The stock WRX has 545's and you can't use E85 with them (to make power). You'd need to check lines to see if they have teflon (PTFE), the walboro should be good for e85 unless it's a really old one, the aeromotive fpr should also be good. As for the actual problem of the stuck valve though, I'm assuming you're already going to do a tear down and just want insight as what to use, which I woulnd't know. The only thing I can think of for lowering your exhaust temps would maybe be timing related or going to e85 since it burns cooler.

Lowering a Z can also be detrimental to handling if you go beyond what the suspension geometry is meant for. So going with Stiff coilovers will help you from not bottoming out, but will be a more jarring ride.

They should have the same width gears on the inside, therefor the same stregth. The 71B's have been known to hold up 300whp without too much abuse. What power are you shooting for?

Where are you getting a steady supply of leaded fuel? Any chance you can go to E85?

Wait are you in an s30 or s130? The suspension is vastly different between the two

I feel like most people dedicated to drag swap in a solid rear axle.