BluDestiny

The first names that come to mind are Benchmark Composites as linked above, Then retro spec at like $800ish and also Seibon at like $850 if I remember right. I have seen issues with seibon with it not lining up correctly or there being enough flex that it's noticeable. I've never heard or anything bad about Benchmark.

I just want to see pics of your rear subframe now.

Almost sounds like you're just boiling the fuel out. After you drive for 10 or so minutes, have you tried just flooring it? and does it sputter and bog out?

Nice. We need more SR Z's. Also it may be worth your time to host pictures on a photo dedicated website, like photobucket, flickr, or imagehut. You can then link them directly into the thread and talk to them. What are you using for engine management and what are your goals?

What were the numbers?

Yeah it's been slow going because winter sucks and I haven't actually been doing the work on this car, the shop has. But most of the stuff from now on will be me. I just want to make sure it works and doesn't blow up.

1) What are you goals? If they're sub 300 then you should stick with the L since you already have megasquirt setup. 2) McKinney mounts should work. If you're making your own it would depend on how you want to mount it, but I think the Mckinney mounts bolt straight to the stock crossmember. 3) Trans mount is different so you will have to either make or buy one (McKinney sells one also). Trans mount is different than the Rb25/26. Drive shaft you will probbaly shorten, although I don't know enough about that trans to give you a definite yes. Shorting is easy if you find a good driveline shop that can shorten and balance one.

The rears will fit fore sure with a 255/40/17 regardless of the suspension. The front is a little different. I have s13 coilvoers and my limiting factor is how close the wheel/tire comes to hitting the spring perches due to width of the tire. On a spring/strut suspension, you will run into hitting the spring perch due to diameter of the tire (I think you can only go up to a 25" tire based off the center of the hub). The only 235 I know of that is readily available is a 235/45/17 which will have a 25.3" diameter. This is a 255/40/17 on a 17x10 -20 wheel: This is a 235/45/17 on a 17x9 -28 Those pictures are with s13 coilovers. Unfortunately there is no real drop in wheel for the fronts. This is why I am eventually getting custom sized CCW's. Do you have stock springs and struts or coil overs?

I would start with a smaller combustion chamber. I had an F54 with +1mm pistons, e88 head with larger valves and an MSA "Stage 2 cam" kit. It was about a 9.8:1 CR. I also had a 40mm triple weber setup that I had rebuilt. It would idle at about 1k and streetability sucked at taking off (partially the clutch/partially the webers), but after 3k it was glorious. I had a spec 6 puck (overkill) and a fidanza flywheel I used an MSD 6AL to help the 260z ignition. I also never broke 200whp. I had no head work done. I would highly recommend you get head work done and either choose megasquirt or webers and build AROUND the EFI system first. If I had to do it again, first thing I would do is go megasquirt if the car came with EFI.

First shakedown event of the year. I think my new fuel pump is dying due to be under utilized since I'm not on E85 yet. Other than that the car ran flawlessly, needs an alignment and larger wheels.

Turbo?

Custom

It's funny you say that because I'm swapping my 71b for a 71c this number since my 2nd/3rd gear synchros are going out. I got a pair of 71c trannies for $140 and a free 4spd bellhousing to mod. I was quoted $80 for the machine work. I'm doing it for future replace ability. Teh cost of 71b's seem to be getting to that tipping point of "I can find a 71c for cheaper and get a short shifter".

Yeah there is a company called like Gecko or something that does exactly that for the rear. I had a set custom made by a machine shop so I could adapt s13 coilovers. Also old thread is old.

First thought would actually be crud in the tank. The next thing I'd look at is the baffling if it broke off or something

1980 base model 280zx with an SR20, lightweight flywheel, stock SR trans, full size lead battery, subaru r180 with stock axles, real urethane whale tail. Interior only has dash (all AC stuff ripped out), center console, door cards, roof liner, and 2 6x9 speakers in plywood boxes. seats are Sparco Ultras with wedge seat brackets and sparco sliders. Car was weighted with some 16x7 steelies (not pictured) and some hefty spacers to accommodate. Suspension is s13 coilovers welded on front and adapter made out back, T3 T/C rods. Car had 5 gallons of gas in. Came in at 2470lbs without me. I hope to get it below 2400lbs with proper wheels, a fg hood, and lightweight race battery. Car was also weighed with both bumpers on, I hope to eventually remove and replace them with something else.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2010/02/car_spotlight_gt_gt_woodvillage_s30/ This guy did the rad support with what looks like a cusco bar.

I was under the impression that the front 2 mounts line up exactly with where the old subframe mounts.

I would love to see you put those mounts in. I'm at the limit where I can either put an s13/14 subframe in or just do the late model swap like you did.

Its done. Drove it back last Friday. This thing is a beast. Still needs an exhaust though, so that will be one of my first steps.

I'd also like to know if you used a drill to prime it before you fired it up.

It will be getting another dyno, but not until spring. That actually is a good point that I didn't even realize.

So I just got my car dynoed yesterday (it's still going to the shop it's being built at, and the tq number for me seems pretty low. I've seen most setups with this turbo put out around the same # hp/tq numbers Mods: sr20det with wiseco pistons/eagle rods Tomei solid lifter kit with 256 cams Gt28/71r at 12psi CR racing top mount T25 manifold (modified by TF Works) Freddy intake (came with the motor) id1000 injectors AEM 320 pump AEM infinity ecu Custom intercooler Stock SR20 tranny with a 3.9 clsd diff If you need more added to the list let me know. I'm thinking it could be a product of the cam profile, but maybe not. I will be going with flex fuel down the line hence teh large injectors and pump. I just want to be able to test out the car and "break it in" without breaking the tranny or anything first, so this is a conservative tune. If this is normal for the amount of boost, then I'm just an idiot. Maybe I should have had it turned up some more.

ITM is a pretty well known brand on this forum. If this is a stock rebuild, those pistons will be fine. If you're pushing more than 300whp then you might be in trouble. If you rev it higher than 7k you're also going to have a bad time.

I will fit on manual steering. I had one on before. I then switched to the 3-2 design to keep it closer to the block and higher up in the tranny tunnel. I do have manual steering also. I don't think it would fit with the early power steering box. At least not without bashing it up.