BluDestiny

What your describing is just a bottom end. I've seen 3.1L strokers make less than an 2.8 with head work. You might very well get good and bad responses. As for the compression ratio, that can alwasy be modified with head work and chamber welding.

Are you actually in Switzerland?

Surge tank size matters depending on how much fuel you're sending to the engine and how much of it is being used.

I second Carol Smith books. I've only read engineer to win. I would also suggest Maximum boost by Corky Bell if you have not had any experience with turbo charges systems. http://www.thriftbooks.com/w/maximum-boost-designing-testing-and-installing-turbocharger-systems-engineering-and-performance_corky-bell/293038/?gclid=CNHlq8GH784CFQOTaQod59IH3w#isbn=0837601606&pcrid=70112903232&pkw=&pmt=&plc=

I swapped a subie r180 with the stubs in my 240z. Ended up cositng about $900, $400 for stubs and $500 for the lsd diff. If you got with a front diff from a 720, it'll be open, but will probably cost like $200. I've found 4 in junkyards and have never paid more than $80 for one.

It's also there to help cool the turbo. I don't see how you will be able to run the turbo inlet, along with the AFM and the compressor piping all in the same area, while fighting the intake directly above the turbo. Most people run a silicone fitting into the turbo and rig it up to sit right behind the radiator (get rid of the clutch fan and go with some electric fans on the radiator) What is the front of the power bulge?

It has to be an exhaust leak. Having that last bolt on the end broken leads me to believe you need to desk the headers and head mating surface. Sounds warped.

There is a seal (usually rotted away) that prevents you from filling up through the shifter. You could fill it through the rear tail if you really jack up the rear end and remove the driveshaft. But I think getting the plug out would be your best bet. Use a giant lever arm.

Picture? You can't install it upside down can you? I'm thinking the indent needs to be flipped. But I can't seem to picture my own sway bar (using an MSA 1" though).

I saw that, I don't think it's a bad deal nowadays, but it will take some work. It's not a ready to run car. Plus you don't have everything for a manual conversion so that'll add up.

What Tony was saying is true, on top of that the stock EFI is probably limiting you. Here is my dyno of an stock L28 (f54/p79 combo) with SU's and a 6-2-1 msa header You can see it falls off. One other thing I can think of is the weight difference. I know the CRX's weigh like 2300lbs tops fully loaded. Your Z is a little heavier than that. My engine is in a 2100 lbs 240z.

Have you looked into trying to get a regrind from Isky cams?

There is no load on that, so it's drooping. I'd like to see what it looks like sitting on the ground with a wheel on it. Or just jack up the strut with a piece of wood to keep it safe.

Ross 87mm overbored. I got them from MSA actually, so off the shelf. It was this kit when it was on sale for like $550-600 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d08/10-4080

NA build with carbs. Super cheap, super reliable. Large radiator and good, new hoses. I put this down with a stock engine L28 from a ZX with SU's and a 6-1 header. Car weighs in at 2100 lbs, and that does make a difference

And another one, this time with no cones. https://youtu.be/R_rnRk3vYXE

And another one, this time with no cones.

I've used ross in the past. My last L I built was in my zx in NA form except the last 5k miles before I sold it. I had it turned up to 10psi on a stock efi turbo setup. But, the general consensus is that forged are only need in extreme cases or when RPM are going to exceed "elevated" levels. If you're staying below 6500 you shouldn't have a problem. Also it sounds like the rings got toasted, not the pistons, from uneven detonation. Have you torn the engine apart to inspect?

Was this while you were home (here in the states) or working overseas?

I ran a 10:1 compression F54 with an E88 (same chamber design as the N42) and It was great. I had the Schneider stage 3 cam and triple Weber 40's. I never tore the motor apart, but 10k miles were trouble free before I sold the car.

Damn he's in canada lol

Makes sense that It would show that. That's where John was working last. John Benton is a great guy as well. "In the Z community he had god powers" lol

Yeah you need an EFI pump. 2 psi would not let it run much if at all. And as New zed said you should check the fuel injectors are opening. Pop the fuel rail off and see if they fire after you put in a new pump.

Shift light is set to go off at 5700 rpm. This engine has the EFI 280zx cam where it really doesn't make more power after that. But my tach was falling out so I really don't know, you can see it fall out at the start of the second run. The last run I captured I had it ziptied in place kinda. I generally will shift at 5500-6000. The last two runs I actually stayed in 2nd except for one area where I went into third. The first few runs I shifted into 3rd too much and lost time.

Went to an Autox yesterday with my 240z for the first time. It's been a long time coming with this car, as I recently also drove it back from CA to IA. The fast cars were running 51-52 seconds, My fastest was a 56.2 but I hit a cone. Not bad at all. I am not new to Autox, I have been racing my Subaru pretty intensively the last few years. I'm open to all criticisms. Mods: 1970 240z, L28 from a 280zx w/ SU carbs and MSA 6-2-1 header to 2.5" all the way back, 5 spd, sectioned struts and coilover springs (250lbs front, 275lb rear), STI rear diff, rear disc brake conversion, 15x7 wheels with 205/50/15 toyo r888's. Car is completely gutted with a dash, center console and 2 bucket seats with a harness.