BluDestiny

or if you plan on keeping the car for another 50 yrs you can just coat every not visible piece with Por-15. most people like to replace the old undercoating with that stuff anyway.

It's been done, I'm pretty sure tony d knows something about it.

With more input/proof (dyno charts etc) this could be a good sticky. A lot of people do these kind of builds and I think it would be very helpfull. from my other post a while back I'm planning on doing this, but I do plan to get some headwork done and a bigger cam to compensate for the compression.

that's like would be one hell of a stroke, lol but we all know you meant .04 over.

Most heads are interchangeable between the blocks although some say you might need some slight modifications. I personally have only delt with putting head on the F54 (L28) block, and they all work. depending on what head you already have on(it should be a E88, but could be another if the engine was replaced at one time) and you put on the N42, the biggest difference will be the larger valves. If you're going to replace the head, why don't you just drop in the whole L28?

Also a good valve clearence check would probably help. Besides its just good practice check. Here's a link... http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1803105

I would, but the 40's only cost me $500. I can't find a set of 44's within reasonable price, and to upgrade would cost more than I paid for the webers anyway. Unless anyone wants to trade Mikuni 44's for my weber 40's with some cash on top I'm pretty much stuck with the webers

If you plan on forging the bottom end (pistons and rods) you will already have to pay for all the machine work and assembly (unless you plan to do that all yourself). If you do get the new pistons and rods, you should try to do a stroker build since all your missing is a V0 crank (about $300 to $400) or at least bore out to 88mm. Another thing, the rods and crank on these engines are already forged from the factory. Unless the engine went through some major abuse you can probably reuse the rods.

I think I did forget something, although I'm not sure it will be so much of a problem. Will i be able to run the stock 50am alternator? and the same goes for the distrubuter. If i can't run the alternater I can do the 60amp upgrade, and if I can't run the distributor I'll probably try the GM HEI upgrade. Any nay-sayers? I would like to run the stock stuff though since it will save me some money.

nope. its a N42 block. It should be ok with a p90 head since it has dished pistons. It had a no quench head on it (N42 or N47 depending on produciton month) so the dished pistons were to make up for the lack of quench the head had. My .02 is that you should hold out for an F54 turbo block and if you can't find one with dished pistons, jsut get a flat-top block and buy a new set of dished pistons and do a ground up rebuild.

Thanks for the input guys. I've been assembling these parts for about 4 months and I'm finally going to have some free time and spare money to drop all the parts off. I'll let you guys know the results. I'm trying to find a place to dyno my car for before and after results.

27mm I believe. a 1" socket would be 25.4mm so if that almost fits than its gauranteed that its a 27mm

Hey everyone, My winter project is to put a L28 flat-top with a E88 head into my 260. I'm going to be getting a lot of machine work done to the head and the block needs some love too since their is rust(it still feels smooth though) in the cylinders. Anyway the plan for the block is: New rod bearings New journal bearings New piston rings New timing kit ARP head studs ARP rod bolts Turbo oil pump(since the short block didnt come with an oil pump) new water pump ( didn't come with that either) New gaskets(oil pan, timing cover, waterpump possibly a hone and a jet-tank to clean it off. plus assembly at the shop For the head: port/polish port matching larger valves hardened seats Isky stage III cam Isky springs +lashpads, rockers...whatever else i need I'm going to be running Triple webber DCOE 40's and a 6-1 ex headers. Is their anything I'm missing that should be replaced? and should I have the block pressure tested and the crank balanced? Also should I upgrade the clutch/flywheel while it's out? I was thinking a lightened turbo flywheel and a stage 2 Zoom clutch Should be getting a little more kick outta this engine compared to the stock L26.