PandaZ

Would it be possible to make a pull-type clutch, such as the late r33 uses or would that cause a similar problem on the other side of the crank journal?

Tony, was that head still connected to the block, when you weighed it?

If you intend to leave the metal surface exposed, then i can think of three options. 1) Cheap one: Cover the area in veg oil, then use hot soapy water to clean later! 2) Expensive, anal-retentive option: Get a carcoon, which hermetically seals the car from atmosphere & throw in a box of those silica gel packs for good measure! 3) Permanent solution: Use a Zinc block as a sacrificial anode, connected to the cars chassis & body work! (replace the zinc block every several years)

Definately Suede, i have both a leather momo and a suede omp. I much prefer the feel of the suede (both with & without gloves); looks better too. my 2 cents

Hey, just wondering if anyone has any ideas, suggestions, examples on the best & most effective places to gusset & seam/stich an early S30 (late '71)? I was thinking about adding gussets to the chassis rail to firewall area and stitching or spoting the F&R strut towers and chassis rails. (i already have a full cage) Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Well i found an interesting tech article on aerodynamics! May be of some assistance?! Part 1: (intro) http://www.modified.com/tech/0607_sccp_automotive_aerodynamics_part_1/index.html Part 2: (indepth) http://www.modified.com/tech/0610sccp_automotive_aerodynamics_part_2/index.html

Yeah the notch and groove should line up central. When you say spring removed, do you mean the mouse trap? For a standard to mild cam, 0.008" IN & 0.010" EX is the factory settings, (mouse trap on), but for big cams 0.010" IN & 0.012" EX is used. You can cheat if your stuck using a std cam for short distance stuff only (hillclimbs, motorkana...) by using .006" IN & .008" EX. But as Zmanco suggested, use for bearing blue and check the wipe pattern on your rocker pads! Also ive always thought that removing your cam towers is an absolute no no! (I had 80thou off one of my heads once and managed to adjust for it without removing the towers to shim them)

Ok, thanks John, guess i will have to wait a while & seen then.....better start saving now i guess, based on the RB stroker prices. source of information : http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4235.0.html

wow! Sorry, John i should have been more specific, i was wondering about the new L6 3.1L stroker kit. (i already have an RB30, but an OSG stroked 26 would be sweet)

oh dear lord! Heavy drool forming, screen fogging....... lol I am willing to sell my soul for a mere 7.2million yen! Any takers? Well, its not the power or the price, its how amazingly cool & uber rare that item is!!! If i was ever to own one engine, i think that would be it. Most unfortunately, i cant use that head in tarmac rally , but if i ever win the lottery, i will build a car just for that motor. John, so how much is the OS Giken 3.1 stroker kit? (wondering if its comparable to the kameari kit ive been looking at?)

Hey Tony, that 16.2mm (.640") lift cam, whats the duration on that? Is it ground ready to go or is it a blank profile? Im interested in it, as its about the lift i am looking for (maybe a touch more than i wanted being .620" - .630", but very close)! What was the price on that cam & would you be willing to help me out, if its the cam im looking for? As for the handling square lugs, my L4 cams all have those, even my factory billet race cam. Cant remember if my L6 cams do, they are in another shed (dads) so i cant check them easily either.

Yes, needle valves, thats some good work there Matt, missed that post when i was reading through. It was entirely possible there were other problems at play, back then i was tuning by the seat of my pants. I was using bp100 fuel, which may have complicated things for me. The idle and low rpm suffered alittle with the change, with a noticable float rock, loping increase at idle, which tended to cause fouling issues if left idling for too long, but at high rpm in 5th seemed to make a very good improvement. I assumed it was float bowl related due to the engine leaning up (kill plug checks) at max speed and not pulling, then backing off throttle slightly and pushing again increased rpm then fell off shortly after (possible throttle jet assist)?! Well it made an improvement for me, so i took the small victory over the Weber demons! lol Also it was interesting to see the AFR readout of your needle valve experiment, showing what effect it actually had. Thanks.

lol its ok, i have a sense of humor and am fine at laughing at myself, so dig away... yep, i am rather anal retentive at times, it has good & bad points, but im ok with, even if your not.

Wow, very impressive! Thats moving alright! 14.75:1 CR YIKES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (and a few more just for Tony)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *Just to note: i was in no way attempting to devalue the work that was done in balancing, its very good work. I admire his patience and fortitude in doing so! There is definately something to be gained for all of us from his work. But i was just highlighting some details that needed clarification, by bringing abit of science to the table. Sorry, i am doing analytical chemistry at the moment, affectionatly dubed "anal" chem! lol

So can i put a clutch type lsd into a q45 r200v (6bolt)? I cant use a vlsd in tarmac rally, it must be a clsd. If not i will scrap that idea and just use a GTR r200!

It doesnt look like anyone has mentioned needle & seats yet! This should'nt be overlooked, in setting up your carbs. In my L18 i was using a 296º dur., 78º overlap, .5" lift cam, 46mm/38mm valves with 11.5:1 comp and 42mm dcoe's modded to fit big chokes, essentially 45's, (setup was originally on a L16 bottom end) and i was running the bowls dry on high speed runs! I eventually had custom sized n&s's made (cant remember the actual size though, sorry) to releave this problem (next step would be to extend the bowls), this simple change netted me an extra ~30kmh (based on tacho, as was well off speedo)!

ahaha Tony, yeah i love my exclamtions! (i dont know, why but its something i only do in forums.) Tim, i think you may have missed what i was getting at? Yes, weigh the collets, retainers, lash pads, valves etc. But the spring itself, is not nessesary (do you weigh the spring washers?), but the tension & return rate, are the factors involved in the balance. The weight of the springs is of no consiquence, if the prior factors are taken into account. The levered rocker arm weights should be balanced at their correct lash settings (ie: respective angle in relation to the lash pad {height of pivot}), so as to get a true indication of what weigh percentage is actually placed on the lash pad. I understand the dynamics very well and yes i intend to run my stroker to well over 8k! I intend to use some very exotic parts to assist that, when i eventually build it. My L18 pulled over 8k regularly, using mostly factory parts in the valve train (springs excluded). oh, the $4g suspension & 50lbs wheels: well a 50lb wheel, is a 50lb wheel! lol Maybe fine suspension modulation was important, but you wanted to maintain a high rotational inertia, then that would be good..... possibly dakar? Anyway, so yes, i mostly agree with you, but i was just being really anal about it. lol (as someone said earlier, "if your going to be anal, might as well be really anal!".)

wow cool calculators beezed! Bookmarked!

Well to be really anal about it, that scale has an error uncertainty of +/- 0.1g, so every time you used it, there is that uncertainty to take into consideration with you calculations! I dont have the time nor inclination (or data) to do a proper uncertainty calculation, its most likely that your balanced to 0.25g would also have a +/-0.5g of uncertainty to it! *Also you cant be using a decimal measurement lower than you highest uncertainty, as you scale is only a 0.1g, then you cant be using a value less than one decimal place in any calculations! Sorry to be so anal about it, but i felt it needed to be made aware of! I have access to 0.0001g scales in the lab, which are in pressure constant rooms, even my breathing with the lid open will move the reading by +-0.0005g! I quite often have to be accurate to 0.001g or better, which is really quite fiddly sometimes (and the uncertainty calcs are quite annoying)! Im glad you took the levered mass of the rocker arms into account (was that done at the correct lash setting though?)! As for the springs, i cant see any real reason to weigh them, it would be far more important to measure the tension & rate of return! Balance that instead! I cant see a purpose for balancing the cam either! Its a not a Dohc so nothing to match it to! Its a rotating mass working as one unit, so i wouldnt matter if one end is slightly heavier than the other in this case (its not the same as a crank), but it cant hurt if your keen enough; unless you mean dynamic balance, then yes! Also the tension of the mouse traps should be measured & balanced too!

Im sure you guys could post much much better times than that! Like that modifed L28 with the mikunis only doing a 6.6sec 0-60mph, gees who was driving.... miss daisy? My daily r31 wagon, which has a lightly moded RB30 N/A with 120rwkw (~160hp) & weighs 300kg (~666lbs) more than a zed pulls 0-100kmh (~62mph) in 6.7sec! So im pretty sure you could do alot better with a zed! (my zed runs 0-60 in ....well i cant push it that fast! lol) Yeah about the new car thing, they arent as fun to drive, a very sterile generic feeling! Even my mums new maxima is faster then my r31, but not as fun or as communicative! But the r31 is not even a spot on the feeling i get from driving my Datsuns (as long as im not stuck in heavy city traffic)! New cars are even begining to look the same too!

Well, here is a link to my intro page, that does show my cage fairly clearly! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=156550 Its an FIA Cams approved cage, for Category 4 (classic) 3c (modified) tarmac rally! Its main hoop is OD 44.45mm, the rest of the bars are OD 38.1mm & all 2.6mm thick! Its CDW tube type & fully welded! The front bars are tied to the A-pillars! Theres also a bar behind the dash! 15 bars total! This is the guy that built my cage! http://www.walkerchassis.com.au/index.html note: Im 6'1" and with my race seat as far back as i can put it, i still dont have quite enough room from the steering wheel, just enough leg room though. So i am going to have to shorten the steering column by atleast an inch. (already shortened the steering boss kit to fit the slim quick release so i can get in and out easily) *Just something you might want to consider before you build your cage!

Dont mess around with ....s plugs (foul easier), at the very least use ....y (v-groove) eg: bp7ey or what ever heat range you need! (in NGK the higher the number the cooler the plug -> easier to foul) Personally i originally used bp7e** for street to prevent fouling & bp8e** for club track events! (but my engine tune was alot more agressive than yours is) Then found that Bosch WR56 work very well for both road & light track, as they are roughly an >8 ngk heat range, but use four electrodes and never fouled at idle, ever! (prior to Iridium plugs this is what i used once they became available! *cheaper than iridium too!) Bp8eix or bp8edfi are excellent plugs from NGK! (i wont even go into ngk race only plugs) *But for you setup BP6E would be fine! You could use 7 but only if you are using high rpm & not having fouling issues, i would also recommend iridium if you do choose to go colder! **The fact your using carbs, mean you dont have to worry about the R in the code bp"r"6es, that just means resistor for efi stuff (not going into specific details)! {i was a parts interpreter}

shinjigatai Mate thats an awesome effort, amazingly impressive!

L20a uses ~128.016mm rods! L18 are ~130.3528mm L16/24 are ~133.9436mm L13 are ~139.9032mm L20b are ~~145.9mm

well Kameari have a custom 85mm stroke crank for their 3.2L engines with 88.5 to 89.5mm custom pistons & rods! http://www.kameariusa.com/ For those who want to play with bore & stroke ratios for capacity theorising, try this simple math: 0.7854xborexborexstrokexno#cyl = displacement (/1000 for cc) Or alternatively.... bore in mm divide by 2, now square it (times by itself), times Pi (~3.14), times stroke in mm, times number of cylinders, divide by 1000 = capacity in cc ((╥r^2 * L) * no# cyl) /1000 note: you can divide again by 16.4 to get cubic inches! eg: 89mm x 85mm = 3172cc approx. >>>keep in mind that if a stroke is say 6mm longer than you were previously using, the piston is going to travel 3mm higher & 3mm lower than previous, in the cylinder! So theoretically you would want a rod that is 3mm shorter, to keep the same deck height as before! (the piston will now sweep 6mm lower in the bore) Other than custom machined rods, you will have to play with compromises to get it to work :ie rod lengths, piston pin heights, decking/milling, gaskets etc...! note: this will effect your compression ratio too! (~increase it)