steve260z

When my car was stock, yes it had those.

The stamped steel washer that has the tab for the idle adjustment. Had some "high edges". Think the carb body had a casting mark as well.

Also, I used a file to make sure a mating surfaces are flat. just fyi

I had the same issue. I loosened up the nuts on each side. You can run those pretty loose with the locking fold over ring. I would make sure you have plenty of grease inside..They look new...

Well, here we go. Yes, the car dies. But, the symptom is dying but not the problem. The problem is the idle slowly reduces and the car eventually dies. So, what is causing the slow reduction of idle? Still don't know but I've at least made progress. I increased the idle speed to 1K and it still worked its way back down to 600 and died. For the hell of it I just changed the dead head to a return line system. Maybe the gas in the line is getting too hot. I'll see shortly

Well, thanks!!! I've had a grand time working on the project and positing the various pics. Ya, I'm running 36 chokes. Now, I think I have some 34s round here and reading your post (think it was yours) regarding the small increase in power verses 34s, I'll probably put those back. I do have the 36s dialed in pretty well. I currently have the other problem hanging around regarding the strange dying issue. Need to solve that problem first. You know these cars, something new always pops up regardless of how small it is. Thanks for the smiles......

Thanks, that's one solution I'm looking at. Others being the fuel is getting too hot and causing vapor lock and or something is up with the pump its self.

Messing with it now...The Crane XR700 which is mounted on the inside fender below the coil is real hot. Say touch for 2 seconds thats all. Now, it has heat sinks built onto it, so suppose to be hot to some degree. Basically the entire header/intake side is real hot..Just fishing around.. And....my Amp meter usually has a "tick" in it...ticks to the positive side. As the RPMs dropped lower than usual and car acted like it was going to die the fuel pump was not as noisy and the amp meter did not have the "tick". I reved up back up, tick came back and pump was louder. Need to get the car up on ramps to watch the fuel going into the filter but maybe I have an issue with the relay??? The 260 came with both electric and mechanical pump. Relay maybe?

Yes, it does. Bogs down...runs like crap if I floor it when its acting up.

I do have unwrapped headers, the fuel line is rubber unwrapped. Yes, the return line is still in the body. Another note: I checked the connections on the Crane Ignition unit. 2 or 3 going to the distributor, all good.

I was thinking that too but everything I've read on Vapor Lock seems to show the car will not start back up. Mine will start back up...on the 4-5 second crank...Is that true about Vapor Lock? Also, thinking about a heat shield under the carbs. Before I do that I'd like to ID the problem first.

Ok..Have a stroker with triple Weber 40s, Datsun distributor, 34 degrees all in, carter low pressure fuel pump, plugs look good, brand new fuel filter, dead headed carbs, old return line vented to atmosphere, Crane ignition module...Think thats most of important parts, just ask for whatever I've neglected to mention. After 10 minutes of driving, when I come to a stop the car will act like its going to die or will die. This occurs about 50% of the time. If this does not occur I can let the car idle in the driveway and it will start acting like its going to die and will eventually within the next 30 minutes. I can then restart in the car with about a 4 or 5 second crank. Now, if its not in this state of just dying I can turn the car off and restart with a 1 or 2 second start...I think the clues lie here in this 4-5 second crank to start. Now, I've but a voltmeter on the battery as the car dies and the meter reads a consistent 14-14.3 volts while running and dying. When the car dies I can still hear the carter fuel pump running. When it dies the O2 meter will drop down to about 10 AFR from the usually 12 at idle. Now, not sure if this richness is caused by the actual problem or just the result of low bouncing idle at the point of dying which would mess with the vacuum signal the carb sees. Obviously I'm freaking stumped. As mentioned above the 4-5 second crank time on restart is interesting. I've been thinking maybe the fuel is getting too hot, pump is crapping out (only 5K miles on it), all kind of esoteric different Weber ideas and many other ideas... How about your ideas? Thanks, Steve

I run the low pressure Carter. Need to double check but think its the P4070..4 to 6 psi. No regulator. What do you mean by patch?

Had an interesting problem come up. Car would idle just fine. Once driving it would tend to want to stall at stop lights or when slowing down. Kinda hit or miss...Never really consistent but progressively got worse these last couple of months. Just like the car was running our of gas or the coil would be crapping out. Checked all connections with the crane ignition unit, plugs, wires, battery, messed with he idle jets, replaced fuel filter and many other things but could not get rid of the problem. Even ran the car without the gas cap..No progress. Think I found the issue. The carbs are dead headed and my old fuel return line is open. But, I unplugged the line at the gas tank end and it appears the problem is gone. I don't know if something got in the return line and prevented the tank from breathing or what but I've run the car for an hour and no dying.... Ran around in circles trying to find the actual issue and hopefully its solved. Just wanted to post for anyone having issues with dead headed triples.

Awesome...Can't wait for the chassis Dyno results. Thanks for posting.

Oh yes. I remember that was your goal. I was certainly looking forward to those numbers.

Humm..Well written. What were your specific goals to accomplish while there? Besides tune?

Remember, your "budget" will get beat up. You'll probably end up changing E-tubes, jets and chokes to tune it properly. 6 chokes...that's $150 bucks right there. If you get the right ones. Jets, you need to buy 6 each and may not be the ones that work best. But, its worth it. Nothing better than triples. FWIW, I've got my 40s with 36mm chokes on my stroker and pulls hard to redline but wish I would have bought 45s

Before you do anything regarding the head find out what is pin height is on the piston. Or ask the seller what the deck clearance was on his unshaven block.

My outside passenger door handle is broken. Taking off the door panel and wow.....Now, the previous owner (married couple) were pretty cheap. Like owning a daily driver for 32 years, using spare carpet for floor mats and respraying the car, twice.....Hell, if you can't spend the cash for new floor mats on a car you paid off 27 years ago, that saying something. Here's what I found behind the door panel. Freaking duct tape...My god, that would not be much to fix right.

Is the throttle body open when testing?

Great stuff. Thanks for all the effort and sharing it. I agree, very surprising info regarding the small difference between the 40s and 45s. 10% difference at 7k and around 7% or less at 6200 and under. Not to mention and air flow does not start falling off the 40s until near 7K. Better than I thought was going to happen. I have 40s with 36mm chokes and been kicking around the idea of 45s like most folks. From this Dyno run its certainly minimal from a cost persepcitive not to mention street driving action. I went back through posts and I don't see the head is ported correct? Just flow matched to the intake, JE pistons and coating. When you get a chance can you post the jets used for the test?

In the words of Mortensen, "It sounds pretty ******* good". I ******* agree.

Thanks! In a spot where if I I lean it out for better idle I get popping on over run. So, it's a balance act currently. Still looking at different options on idle jets but great improvement since replacing the leather seals. Steady AFRs

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