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steve260z

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Everything posted by steve260z

  1. Interesting. Is this crank HP? Ported Head or not? Strong up to 6,500.
  2. I'll keep them around untill I'm done tuning....Then I'll send them to ya. 10.1 CR. Schneider stage 2, P90 stock, Headers,
  3. Certainly happy with the torque number. Concerned about the HP fall off past 4,500. Running Weber side drafts. 40s with 36mm chokes. Thanks Steve Dyno clean graph.pdf
  4. Isn't the general idea about that mod is that .080" is also the difference in valve stem length? Steve
  5. Regarding linkage, I'm not a big fan of the tiny screw down pressure screw that digs into the rod bridging the factory firewall set up. I got another arm and welded the two pieces together. Pic attached.
  6. HA!!! Took apart my hazard switch. Brushed the circuit board and contacts with warm water and baking soda. Turn signals are now working. Thanks!!! ss
  7. I have the same problem......Power to the green wire. Did you ever find the problem?
  8. Freaking great. New name for my favorite snack.
  9. Great page. Check out the "touring pics". Just like our local Z Club... And a Japanese style hamburger.....: http://www.starroad.co.jp/home/2009.6.7%20%E3%83%84%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AA%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0%E3%80%80%E7%B7%A8%E9%9B%86%20%2813%29.JPG (I'm sure someone who's lived in Japan will chime in, call me a dumb ass, inform me that its not a hamburger but a...-----------..
  10. That looks great. Yes, I've always used quality gas but never been convinced the good gas will clean up old deposits. Maybe it does.... I just use Shell or Chevron to hopefully prevent the deposits to begin with.
  11. This method is actually used successfully on assembled direct injection motors, BMWs for example. With regard to L series motors, I think taking off the head would be the easier route.
  12. Dirty fuel filter, maybe. The filter issue tends to come about after driving the car for a while then starts acting up.
  13. Just take the the water pump pulley and front cover off. You may need to loosen the front 1/3 of the oil pan bolts or not. On my motor the front cover will come off without touching the oil pan bolts. Don't forget about those small head bolts that attach to the front cover. 8mm IIRC
  14. Stroker is getting over 500 miles since the build. Running a lot smoother. The rings and bearings must be settling in. The plugs still look good. After looking up my distributor, which was a 260 unit, I've swapped it out for a ZX unit with more appropriate total timing. I've set the timing at 35 degrees and no pinging. I was running around 40 degrees and got pinging at WOT around 3K. Just need to do more tuning and get the reverse lights working so I can pass inspection.
  15. I was running near 40 degrees all in with pinging... I re-marked the damper and set a 35 degrees. All good. steve
  16. Really, night and day??? I'll check that out.. But, in reference to my original post: Is the "static" timing built into the distributor? If my distributor has 17 degrees centrifugal and I'm running 17 at idle is that 34 degrees all in OR should the calculation also include 10 degree "initial" from the spreadsheet column 1? If so I'd be running 44 degrees..... Does that help?
  17. Question, I'm currently running a 280zx distributor on my stroker. I've got the timing set at around 34 all in. (no vacuum) The below link has an excel spread sheet at the bottom of the 1st post. Most of the distributors would appear to work fine. 17 degree centrifugal and set the initial timing at 17 degrees and there you go. 34 degrees. Am I missing anything here by assuming any of the 17 degree units would work fine? The column titled "static" simply referrers to the factory spec'd timing for that particular car, correct? Does not have anything to do with that particular distributor??? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html
  18. Ah, yes I forgot about that. No back pressure!!! ss
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