steve260z

See above.

Get this pump. I use it https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/carbs-and-injection/weber/electric-fuel-pumps.html

What model do you have for sale? Thanks Steve

Just pay shipping. All good

Here you go. Good site https://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/index.htm

Replacing the fuel float. Didn't have to drop the tank. Just removed the straps and pulled it down. Not to bad

Look forward to the jet comparisons!

U need to give us the jets...all of them you are using

How does it run now? Also, buy an O2 meter. That is key

For the record, here is my deal which I'm chasing down: Ok..Have a stroker with triple Weber 40s, Datsun distributor, 34 degrees all in, carter low pressure fuel pump, plugs look good, brand new fuel filter, dead headed carbs, old return line vented to atmosphere, Crane ignition module...Think thats most of important parts, just ask for whatever I've neglected to mention. After 10 minutes of driving, when I come to a stop the car will act like its going to die or will die. This occurs about 50% of the time. If this does not occur I can let the car idle in the driveway and it will start acting like its going to die and will eventually within the next 30 minutes. I can then restart in the car with about a 4 or 5 second crank. Now, if its not in this state of just dying I can turn the car off and restart with a 1 or 2 second start...I think the clues lie here in this 4-5 second crank to start. Now, I've but a voltmeter on the battery as the car dies and the meter reads a consistent 14-14.3 volts while running and dying. When the car dies I can still hear the carter fuel pump running. When it dies the O2 meter will drop down to about 10 AFR from the usually 12 at idle. Now, not sure if this richness is caused by the actual problem or just the result of low bouncing idle at the point of dying which would mess with the vacuum signal the carb sees. Obviously I'm freaking stumped. As mentioned above the 4-5 second crank time on restart is interesting. I've been thinking maybe the fuel is getting too hot, pump is crapping out (only 5K miles on it), all kind of esoteric different Weber ideas and many other ideas... And the thread...http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127405-strange-dying-issuetake-a-shot/

In short I have the same problem. Try replacing your coil. Only $35 bucks. Autozone has them. Also, check all connections for corrosion, as mentioned fuel filter, battery voltage when the car starts acting up.

Basically no. The chain and tensioner need the sprocket on the head to remain tight

Feel ya.

I put the 34mm chokes back in to compare to the 36s I've been running. On a different thread some flow measurements showed very little difference between the two when fitted in DCOE 40s. Not on my car....34s didn't rev as quickly and produced slower acceleration.

Well, it appears it was my coil going bad. Hopefully chapter closed on that pita

Thanks Tony...For 30 bucks and 10 minutes of work thought I'd try this...Read that coils can start going bad once they heat up but work fine when cold. So far so good..No reduction on idle so far.

Thanks, I'll have to download that paper. Percolation is what I'm currently leaning toward as the problem. In addition to fuel pump, fuel pump relay, the crane ignition unit. I just pulled the plugs again and look good. Light brown color. Now, when the car dies the O2 meter goes rich right before it dies. Drops to high 9s or low 10s.

Well, that didn't solve the problem.

Ok. I've laid down a basic return line to see the results. So far so good. The rubber fuel line certainly feels cooler. Was pretty hot. I had the line running in front of the motor, the fan blowing on it with hot air. Its just a quick fix. If this works I"ll do a more professional job. Here's a quick video.

After 10 minutes of driving, when I come to a stop the car will act like its going to die or will die. This occurs about 50% of the time. If this does not occur I can let the car idle in the driveway and it will start acting like its going to die and will eventually within the next 30 minutes. I can then restart in the car with about a 4 or 5 second crank. Now, if its not in this state of just dying I can turn the car off and restart with a 1 or 2 second start...I think the clues lie here in this 4-5 second crank to start. Now, I've but a voltmeter on the battery as the car dies and the meter reads a consistent 14-14.3 volts while running and dying. When the car dies I can still hear the carter fuel pump running. When it dies the O2 meter will drop down to about 10 AFR from the usually 12 at idle. Now, not sure if this richness is caused by the actual problem or just the result of low bouncing idle at the point of dying which would mess with the vacuum signal the carb sees. Obviously I'm freaking stumped. As mentioned above the 4-5 second crank time on restart is interesting. I've been thinking maybe the fuel is getting too hot, pump is crapping out (only 5K miles on it), all kind of esoteric different Weber ideas and many other ideas...

Ok. I've laid down a basic return line to see the results. So far so good. The rubber fuel line certainly feels cooler. Was pretty hot. I had the line running in front of the motor, the fan blowing on it with hot air. Its just a quick fix. If this works I"ll do a more professional job. Here's a quick video.

When my car was stock, yes it had those.

The stamped steel washer that has the tab for the idle adjustment. Had some "high edges". Think the carb body had a casting mark as well.