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steve260z

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Everything posted by steve260z

  1. steve260z
    i'll check.
  2. steve260z
    http://bringatrailer.com/2015/03/13/japanese-for-mongrel-nissan-powered-mercedes-benz-500sl/
  3. steve260z
    I checked the timing and I don't know how you guys do it but it seems like the motor is reving too fast to tell what exactly the timing is at 3krpms. If you are saying the timing mark is bouncing all over the place and you can't get a reading? That means two things. The dizzy is not holding a consistent timing or the timing light is not working correctly. The 2nd not being likely. Make sure the plug is gapped correctly, swap the ignition wire out with another from 2 through 6 and try again. And I just realized you have a 240..Are you still running points?
  4. steve260z
    I've enjoyed this stage 2 Cam from Schneider for years. But moving up since I built the stroker. http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx
  5. steve260z
    Running the car with jet stack out gives ya an excellent "view" of how often you're on the idles/progression holes. One misconception is that people think the main jets come on at some certain rpm..Not So. The main jets come on at a certain butterfly position. You can be at 5,000 rpm and very partial throttle and be running nothing but idle jets. Hell, I got my car up to 60mph with the main jet stack sitting in the garage. Now, I wouldn't adjust the float levels for the idle jets. Yes, I assume it would have some impact but you need to focus the float level for the main jet. As you mentioned in an earlier post.
  6. steve260z
    Really. Confirm your timing. Make sure the old dizzy holds a stable advance via a timing light. I've been down this road. You have to check off the basic boxes first.
  7. steve260z
    Chances are you're at 35 degrees all in. That's if, if that 30 year old distributor is still operating to spec. How are the AFRs once you're on the main circuit?
  8. steve260z
    1st off, set the timing at 32 degrees "all in".. That means rev the motor till the timing stops advancing. Somewhere around 2,800 or so depending on what distributor you are running. Until you do that you are accomplishing nothing. Webers or work-a-likes require correct timing. Once you set the timing then test. Don't worry about what initial timing the 32 degree gives you. It is what it is. Chances are you'll need to mark your balancer for the 32 degrees using a fabric tape measure since your factory marker doesn't go past 20. Easiest way to do this is mark the balancer in the opposite direction so 32 degrees hits at your zero mark on the factory marker.
  9. steve260z
    I'm happy with this set: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12f01b/10-2050
  10. steve260z
    Still tuning (like what's new...) but I've totally rid the car of the dead spot. Under acceleration the motor would bog down around 2,500 rpms. Using Keith Franck's advice has been awesome. I set the float levels at 25mm from the top of the carb and didn't worry about where the brass floats were in relation to the gasket. On mine the spec level was 8.5mm. Ended up more like 6.5mm. The transition is absolutely smooth.
  11. steve260z
    Wow.. What a learning curve on DCOE carbs. Huge thanks to Frank at Side Draft Central and the guys at http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/28318-weber-jetsall-who-live-for-their-triples-please-read-this/ Can't thank everyone enough. So, setting the floats at 25mm and syncing the carbs with the SK tool. Installed a very nice O2 meter and making progress every weekend.
  12. steve260z
    imo yes. i'd keep trying.
  13. steve260z
    Here's an interesting short video on AFR on a stroker w/webers:
  14. steve260z
    Good point. I'll check
  15. steve260z
    Yes, I agree. So, I got the Carb synco gauge. I'm getting readings between 5 and 7 between the carbs and unfortunately within 1 carb... How close is acceptable? Obviously identical is the goal. Thanks
  16. steve260z
    I'm still tuning the webers...Have you guys ever noticed the AFR changes with ignition timing? Getting my timing up to 32 and now its running leaner.
  17. steve260z
    Here u go 08/22/2013DICKSON, TN Motor Vehicle Dept.REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL
  18. steve260z
    Good deal. Post the results
  19. steve260z
    Az, you remember what your jet set is? Or is it in the thread somewhere? My AFRs are very similar to yours.
  20. steve260z
    Ok, after much tuning and more to come I have a strange issue. In stalled the 50f8 idle jets. I've advanced the timing more and that got rid of the backfiring under off throttle. My AFR is pretty good across all driving situations. A bit rich but ok. Cruising at around 2,500 I'm at around 13-14. But, at stand still idle I'm at 11.2. Very rich. I still have a flat spot at 2,500 under acceleration and I'm thinking a smaller idle jet will increase that problem. Just seems strange my stand still idle would be so rich. Any suggestions.?
  21. steve260z
  22. steve260z
    I installed 50F8 idle jets. AFR is a bit lean at cruising. In the high 13s but have large tip in stumble. (Hello Leon). Starting from a stop light the car will hesitate, buck then start flying but the hesitation is large. Now, since I'm running 36mm chokes maybe that's the cause. I still have the F7s in there. Currently working on the idle jets. Help on the tip in?
  23. steve260z
    After tuning the Webers and getting an O2 sensor installed everything is getting better. I've found a or the main problem with the power output. My high tension wire was not seated in the distributor. Sometime in the past I pushed it down and shoved the metal connector into the boot. The ignition system was having to make a jump of nearly an inch. Installed a new wire and the car really came alive. Regarding the AFR, been running a bit rich. I've got some new E-Tubes and idle jets. Installing them this weekend. My weber updates are in the "lives for triples" thread.
  24. steve260z
    On the chart where is the 55 or 60 number derived from. It's the size of the fuel hole in mm correct? 55 is .55 of a mm.....?
  25. steve260z
    Leon, going to swap out the ETubes next but I've tried two different idle jets. 55F11 and 60F8. The 60s run great but too rich. AFR is in the 10s when cruising but the car is very responsive. Now the 55s run like crap. AFR tends to be too lean but jumps all around and runs generally crappy. What would be a suggestion on the idle jet? One thats slightly leaner than the 60... Thanks
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