steve260z

That's a decent price for a known good one. I paid $750 4 years ago of assumed good quality.

Well, tell us, whats the market getting for a V07....

The 40s are great. Still tweaking and messing with jets. I bought these used and after the cleaning and drilling out a couple of jets I should have bought new ones.. Also bought the Innovate Wideband 02 meter. I can't image trying to figure the jetting procedure with this tool.

Here's one for 2 large: Jeez http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Datsun-LD28-Maxima-Diesel-Crankshaft-240z-260z-280z-280zx-2-2-V07-/301731011455?hash=item464091db7f:g:LksAAOSwDNdV6KEY&vxp=mtr

Great..Details on the build or are they already posted in the back pages?

Oh, and I woundn't run that new motor very hard or under load not knowing the timing and AFR.

You've just taught me something more vague than reading spark plugs.....

I bought used carbs as well. I see you're experiencing the downside of used ones.

Most if not all folks here don't use the choke circuit. Since it's the cam piece I would make sure the parts that follow are in the off position and won't move on there own. I haven't recently looked at a diagram but I would think you are fine assuming it's in the off position. Pierce manifolds stocks all kind of parts. I would guess $15 bucks each for the broken parts.

I would remove the rocker arms and see if the cam turns freely. If so the towers are good which would indicate it's not an oil issue delivery issue.

Great news. I don't know of any back to back test like that. Very curious about the result.

Anybody got updates? We've gone a full year not touching the best thread here. I'm out of content since I've had the front suspension apart redoing the springs, struts, ball joints....In addition to oil leaks, misfires, dual mass flywheel, clutch, radiator, expansion tank, coolant routing hose, window tint crap, door lock actuator, HVAC blower motor, valve cover gasket, and thermostats issue with the 2 BMWs in the driveway. Anybody want to buy a E90 335i?

Thats a very good site but you don't need to modify the distributor unless it has too much timing built in. What you want to achieve is around 34 degrees total once the dizzy stops advancing and not be concerned about idle assuming its reasonable,,,somewhere above 5 degrees. So, you need to find out how much advance your dizzy has currently. 1. Disconnect the vacuum from the dizzy 2. Get a fabric type tape measure, like the ones tailors use. Wrap it around the balancer to get the circumference. Say its 37cm. Divide 37 by 360(degrees). Gives you .102 cm. That tells you every .102cm is 1 degree of timing. We want to mark where 34 degrees is on the balancer. So, multiple .102 x 34 (degrees) which equals 3.49 cm. 3. Now measure 3.49 cm to the right (clockwise) of your zero mark on the balancer. Mark it with white or some bright paint so you can see it with the timing light. 4. Rev the car while using the timing light up to around 2,500 or when the mark stops advancing then adjust the distributor so your new mark stops at the zero number on the factory timing scale/gauge/marker.

Have you addressed the fuel level? At high rpm the signal is at the highest and could be pulling additional fuel. I read back a few pages. Do you have an O2 sensor or getting the AFRs just off the dyno? Just wondering if you can check the AFR easily...Another thought is ignition consistency at high rpms. (A lot of thoughts round here)

Well, if the carbs are too small for the motor wouldn't you just see less than max power and possibly a "choking off" of the motor.? Not wanting to rev past a certain level? What you are saying regarding the AFR ratio assumes once the carbs are at the limit regarding air flow they somehow continue to provide more fuel as the air volume remains the same. How is that possible?

I don't know what you're saying half way through post but disconnect the vacuum. Regarding the timing, you need to use a timing light to see how much advance your dizzy has since a lot of Zs have had the units changed out over the years.Rev the car until the timing stops advancing and see how much total advance you have. This will be around 2,500 rpms or so. You'll need to mark the balancer since the markings on the metal scale stop at 20. Doing this will solve your issue of wondering if your dizzy has been modified. Webers are about total, all in timing not static timing.

Then no drain bolt or crack in oil pan

Have to ask...Are you 100% sure the oil pan was full? No smoke at all when running? So, less than 100 miles total?

love those arms! Now, is this the "race motor RIP" or a different one?

using the engine calculator I show just 8.7 compression ratio with the E31...unless I plugged something in wrong. Sorry..Had the head gasket in mm not inches. Are your headers/manifold square or round? That would impact your budget

Well, any restoration parts unique to a 2+2 will be harder to find. At least on the used market. IMO don't know why you would choose it over a coupe

12.5 is not bad. Cruise AFR is determined by your idle jet. BTW if you adjust the timing once u figure out what your timing is all these AFRs will likely change up.

i'll check.

http://bringatrailer.com/2015/03/13/japanese-for-mongrel-nissan-powered-mercedes-benz-500sl/