pparaska

I agree with your concerns. The loads on that area could move those front A-arm mount points laterally (which the crossmember would help hold in check). Especially with added high torque and braking loads a hi-po Z has, as well as the cornering loads. But another alternative is to cut the center out, and weld in a stiffer design that's not as low between the too. Something wide (front to back) but not as deep would do the trick, and of course, keep the total cross sectional area of the center part you put in substantial. I'm thinking maybe some rectangular thick wall tubing here.

John, thanks for letting me know that - if I go to camber plates, I'll look you up!

I'm not going to comment here on MSA - talk to me off line. Anyway, I'd NEVER buy OE parts from MSA. You can always beat their prices (not to mention service) by going to one of the MANY wholesale price Nissan dealers for parts. 1-800 number, good in-stock selection, and friendly service. Courtesy Nissan, Brown and Brown, others. Pic up a Road and Track and look in the back, or one of the ones that advertises in Sport Z Mag. Have you tried removing the latch mechanism from the door, cleaning it with solvent and lubricating it? That helped mine alot. I looked FOREVER years ago for those solex coke-machine locks for the doors. Glad Len found them.

Sorry, I've been kind of out of touch (work is beating me up lately). I've been emailing denny back and forth. My home machine is clean, and the work one should be fine too (I update my virus definitions automatically every boot and run norton protect full up.) Probably Klez. I get alot of those emails. For like the last 6 months!

katman, the resistors in the pills look like metal film precision resistors to me. But I agree, buy some carbon resistors, measure them, and you'll know within a hundred rpm or so what the limit will be. Oh yeah, plug in one with infinite resistance (like leave the pill out) and you get an infinite rpm rev limiter .

Back when I was a poor college student, and had a bit of an interior fire that toasted the roof, interior, windshield, quarters, etc., I did the "rattle can" thing too. I found an "automotive finish" rattle can that had a very close match to the 110 red/orange that was on the car. I rattle canned it and it was an orange! I mean orange in color and orange in peel! A few hours with some 400, 600, 800 sand paper and it looked smoother than the slightly oxidized true automotive paint on the car. BTW, 320 rwhp for that type of a setup is damned impressive - 6 months to a year to get the carb dialed in though!

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rontyler/diffmount.html

I did the overlap - on my first side. Then I decided to bite the bullet and do a but weld for the second side of the car. REAL pain in the but cutting it to JUST the right size, then welding it because I was blowing through the 22 gage OE sheetmetal every 4 or 6 inches! I actually went back and cut off the overlap on the first side. I didn't want that trapped area.

Yeah, I just saw that (great mag! I've subscribed for 4-5 years now). How about 320 rwhp and 280 ftlbs!

Congrats on the new baby Man that sounds like a ton of work for "a couple of weeks"! Impressive! Have fun!

Terry, a steel structure can be designed for infinite fatigue life, but AL cannot, although it can have a very long fatigue life if the correct materials and design is used. I agree that both ends should be either solid or cushioned. Personally, I think even a drag car can have soft mounted diffs, if they are done correctly (FORGET the stock Nissan front mount!). I've been in a few Z's with a solid front mount and the noise in them was incredibly annoying. I'm sure if you had a pristine Diff it would be quieter, but those are rare. For a drage only car, MO is that solid is fine, but for a street car, I'd only want cushioned mounting of everything. An above the diff rubber front mount like Ron Tyler (and I) have is one solution for the front, while Simon DeGroot and others have done it differently (ScottieGNZ, etc.) As for the rear, you could easily design an M-bar replacement that is very strong, and still used rubber or Urethane cushions between the unibody subframe and the new part. Just sandwich it between a "foot" on the new M-bar and that member, with a cushion between the "foot" and the bolt head/washer.

Ron Tyler made an Aluminum replacement for the mustache bar and rear hangers for the control arms. It bolts to the 4 bolts holes in the subframe for the down-hanger plates and also to the studs that hold the mustache bar on the ends. I don't know the details of the design though. I'd think a 1.5" or 2" piece of black sched 40 pipe would be plenty, but I'd probably just use flat plate (1/4" thick) and some welded on brackets to go to the studs that bolt into the body that hold the M-bar. You could just remove the studs (they unscrew) and put bolts in instead. AL would be cool, though, for weight savings. I just don't have a TIG setup. I guess I could AL braze it together (Got some neat AL brazing rods from a guy off ebay - they work with MAP gas) and then have someone do the TIGing for me.

Jon (Jumbo), thanks for looking into PG's response for your method. Too bad they don''t give that as an option in their instructions.

That's a pretty good deal, IMO. The seller seems to be quite honest in telling you all the stuff wrong with the car and what it needs! Speed, power, acceleration, and our perception of it is all relative. To the guy with an econobox, an hopped up L6 Z is very fast. To the guy with the hopped up L6 Z, a warmed over V8 in a Z seems really fast! It's all relative! BTW, I'd put a dual 2.5 exhaust or 2.5 duals into 3" on that thing so it can breathe. Dual 2" exhaust is strangling that thing on the top end.

Interesting how the flat tappet XE274H is so darned close in performance to the XE276HR. Sure, the flat tappet gives up a bit of mid-range torque, but I can't see spending the extra bucks on a roller at that "small" a cam size. I'd buy the 274H or 4x4 version of that flat tappet cam and just put 1.6:1 rockers on with the extra cash.

Look for a plastics supply place. There's a place near me that you can get bulk polyurethane, in different durometer ratings. Try McMaster-Carr. Maybe start here: http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/selectfamily.asp?FAM=foam,rubber&VAL=101=11560,&desc=Polyurethane

Check this out: http://www.headerdesign.com/

Terry, if the pumps being compared had similar flow rates and efficiencies, I'd agree. But an electric pump usually moves less water per minute than a good mechanical pump. Now, if the pumping action of the pump part of each were the same efficiency, then the electric one would use less power, ignoring the efficiency of the electric motor. The electric motor probably has an efficiency in the 80-95% range though, so no great loss there. I think running an electric pump would be nice, but I worry about them not having enough flow rate and the electric motor's longevity.

Welcome! I'd love love to see some pics of the install and see how you like it when it's done!

No, but you might want to either lift the rear of the car higher than the front, or drain a pint or so of fluid before you remove the driveshaft. After you pull the driveshaft, the seal is staring at you from the back of the tranny.

Lone, well said! I'd say this Administrator is in lock-step with your thinking! Who can blame the guy for coming here looking for good turbo info anyway - this forum has some great turbo experts on it. But unfortunately, probably not alot of Honda turbo hybrid experts.

Other than the seal and the hole vent in the yoke, check to see that there's not too much play side-to-side in the tail shaft. There's generally a bushing in the tail housing that keeps the yoke from moving side to side too much. If that's worn (from previous use behind an imbalanced driveshaft for instance), you'd have to replace that.

Len, you're the poster boy for high strength driveline parts So I think you might want to consider NAS aircraft bolts (not AN). NAS bolts are expensive, but very strong in shear, which is what you want. They come in different "grip" lengths, with short threaded portions, and you can pick a bolt that has just enough grip for the driveshaft yoke and diff flange. You can get them at Aircraft Spruce, etc. Here's their online catalog : http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catmain.php?dest=cathome.php Follow it to Hardware, then Bolts, then NAS. They can be ordered with the threaded end drilled for cotter pins (see below). Definitely not cheap (I can't remember the price, but not for the light hearted), but they're very strong and you'll probably not need to worry about shearing them! They also have MS (milspec) nuts that are locking and use cotter pins. With the locking nut and cotter pins you should have no problems.

Just support the engine crossmember, and the body in front and behind where the rail is being cut out.

660, yes, just take a small bolt/screw and bolt the wires to the amp gage together. Shrink tubing of several sizes on the connection should give plenty of insulation. As for the volt meter, you want to find a wire that only has power with the key in the on position (maybe start too) and wire the gage to that wire and ground.