pparaska

I'd yank all the suspension stuff if you can, but of course, that makes transporting a bitch. The parts are getting hard to find and expensive. I'd strip it of interior and door hardware, glass, etc. If you have the time and space for it.

I moved it to the appropriate forum. I do this occasionally to keep things compartmentalized (Freud has a phrase for this neuroses ) and to help with searches in forums. Sorry for the confusion. I usually just move it and don't say anything to keep the forums clean.

Oops. Sorry. www.hotrodder.com There is a bit of the usual Ford vs Chevy, and my rides the baddest nonesense, but there are some knowledgeable hot rodders there as well.

Randy, that's what I did on my low pressure system (14psi from the Holley blue pump to the regulator). I used brass compression fittings on the hard Al line. I worried a bit about the Al compressing, but it didn't leak. Any opinions on using compression fittings (brass) on AL hard line?

Terry, that's one nice looking Z! I love the rear spoiler! [ May 15, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Ray, this is really more like the streetrodder.com forum (which is pretty good BTW) than a Z car forum. Lot's more ideas and info than on just Z's here - I love it! What about those aftermarket IRS units that use 9" pumpkins? Lot's o' money, but it'd be trick and pretty strong. But if I were doing drag racing in the 10s like Scottie, I'd probably just go to a solid axle too.

The non-LSD R200 has a shaft that holds the spider gears. Don't know what would be in there on a clutch LSD diff - mine was clear from side to side.

Could you have been looking at the boots on the U-joint shafts? Anyway, I've heard from one source somewhere that some 2+2s had CV shafts. Nothing confirmed though.

I looked into the torque arm/torque tube around the driveshaft thing years ago and gave up. Like Lonehdrider said, there's not much room. If you decide to hack the side of the tunnel out, it could be fit in on the side though, I guess.

Jim, thanks again. I'm forgoing the sub belt. The seats WON'T let me sub anyway as their pretty deep and have a good knee riser. John, I have a rollbar with "frame supports" that go from under the belt bar on the main hoop down at an angle inward to the driveshaft tunnel. Also have bars that run from the top of the hoop to the strut towers. Thanks again,

What I keep coming back to on the "we don't need low end torque" and Single plane issue are these two things: 1) I have a mild performance V8. 327, mild 224@.050 solid flat tappet cam, camelhump heads, dual plane, 750 vac. sec. carb. (Remember, for a solid cam, you have to subtract 8-12 degrees of 0.050 duration to get to a comparison of a hydraulic cam). Desktop dyno estimates about 360 hp., ~90% of the peak 400 ft lbs of torque over the 2500-4500 range. This is probably pretty optimistic. The car will cruise in 5th at about 2100rpm. Would I gain much top end (drops off torque and hp above 5500rpm) with a single plane? I doubt it, and so does Desktop Dyno. 2) This is a street car mostly. Cruise at 2100rpm in 5th on the highway. Seems like the reason I built it was for kick in the back performance under just such circumstances, mainly. Sure, I can shift down to 4th, but what if I just want to "jump" from 65mph in 5th? Heck I do that in my Turbo Eclipse, and it works pretty good above 70mph (after the installation of a relief valve controller and it's a cool day). How much of that "kick" would I lose if I went to a Victor Jr.? To me throttle response is very important. Maybe I'll have so much I wouldn't miss a small fraction of it. I'm probably operating in a different performance range and application than others here. [ May 14, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Lone, I agree, if the guy sells a V8 Z conversion kit and doesn't know what a Scarab is, I'd walk on that alone. His attitude of him being the best and no one else knew anything also irritated me. Then he goes on to say that the difference is nil between the Scarab position and the JTR setback. Well, I can say that I've heard the opposite from enough people who DON'T sell kits to take very little stock in his word. I just wish he'd quit selling his kit or change it over to set back so that people who find his site and don't do any other research wouldn't get stuck with his (inferior, pricey, and arrogant) solution.

Jim, I'm very interested in the info on those belts. Thanks, Pete

Sounds like BS to me. There is a screw with an O-ring in the top of the housing. Make sure it's tight. BTW, if you need more oil, call or email Autometer tech support. They mailed me a bottle of the silicon oil free when I offered to buy some.

John (night_rider) that's going to be a beast! Welcome to HybridZ! I know alot of people don't like the roots blower because it's inefficient, but the curb appeal is unbeatable, IMO. A problem with them is seeing over them. Seems the Z is even worse about this. You mentioned subframe connectors. I have plans for the ones I put in my 73 on my site under "structural mods" in the left column. The problem with your idea for the exhaust is that where the mufflers and tail pipes will be will be right where the subframe connector is. The Z is low, and the seat must be low in the car, so there's no room to do both. Options are run subframe connectors in the rockers, or run exhaust in the rockers. Custom side pipes in the rockers is an old topic you may want to use the search function here to find and read up on. I'd opt for runing some big stiff tubing in the rocker boxes and tieing it in to the rear suspension you'll build and the front engine rails. JMO. Keep us informed, sounds like a great fun project!

Guys, thanks for all the input. I sat in one of the seats and my shoulder is actually above the top of the hole in the back rest, maybe a half inch. So I told the guy to weld it in so that it's in the center of the cut out vertically. It'll probably angle up just a bit. It's probably all welded in by now . One thing I am ignorant on (among many) is the methods for attaching the belts. It seems Summit Racing has belts with different attachment methods which may help. Then again, I may hav to just weld a tab on the bar that has a bolt hole that's behind the bar a bit (gusseted, of course) to gain the clearance I need. The seat is reclined a bit, but that's to make in comfortable with the seat in the position it is - a bit forward - and give me a comfortable reach to the steering wheel and shifter. Thanks again!

Henry Costanzo (Georgia Z club pres, ZCCA assistant director), has an article on something like that where he put 12V pancake fans in holes in the inner fender in that area http://www.georgiazclub.com/v8cooling.htm

I'd hope all the clutch LSD R200s were the same there. Unfortunately, I don't have any measurements. Clutch LSD R200s stubs in the 300ZX (87.5-88) can use the same stubs as the open R200s from the 280Z.

Nope. The clutch and viscous LSDs (R200s seen in the US anyway) are different in the area of the stubs that go into the diff. Different location of the snap ring and other dimensions between the two diffs. What did your LSD come out of? Is it viscous?

Just wondering why people relocate the oil filter. I was going to, but Jim Biondo talked me out of it for some of the same reasons (extra oil, extra complication, routing difficulties, etc.) When I made my exhaust, I made sure that it went around the oil filter - it's not even close. I can easily drop the big System 1 oil filter off the Transdapt spin on adapter (old 327 had a canister filter) without getting within a 1/2" the exhaust. It's a straight shot down, and easy to get to. Not shooting holes, just presenting a different method.

There's definitely a difference in the clutch LSD (and open R200) and the Viscous LSD diffs. But Greg Kring and James Thagard (240Z Turbo) have shown me pics that show that the snap ring location difference between the clutch and viscous diffs aren't the only difference - the length was different as well, including the spline length. There may be other differences I can't recall. Can you measure the depth of the ring relative to the side of the diff housing, and compare it to the same distance on the stub?

That and make sure you have the correct stub of course. I guess if the entire ring is in there, it'd have to be pretty deformed to not hold the axle in if the groove is in the correct place and clean. I'd think it would break before deforming permanently that much. BTW, Nissan has these rings if you need them.

On the driver's side, I kept the stock seat mounts. I had to build new ones on the passenger side (right), but made them stock height. For my Corbeau A4s on the 240Z slides, the seats sit a bit high. But if I lower them, I will lose rear adjustment range since they hit the subframe connector where it climbs the slope to the raised floor. I need the A4 seat almost all the way back, one notch from all the way back anyway. I have about 3" above my head to the sheet metal of the roof. [ May 06, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

On the driver's side, I kept the stock seat mounts. I had to build new ones on the passenger side (right), but made them stock height. For my Corbeau A4s on the 240Z slides, the seats sit a bit high. But if I lower them, I will loose rear adjustment range

It's in the diff. At least on the LSD diffs it's fits in the side gear. I'm fairly certain you'd have to disassemble the carrier to be able to replace it, but not absolutely sure.