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Everything posted by pparaska
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I was wondering when someone was going to mention Halon production had ceased. But that's in the US and other coutries that signed the Montreal Protocol. Other countries (Brazil, China, India) are producing more of it every year. According to this site: http://www.ushalonbank.com/halon7.html the Montreal Protocol allows for it's trade, and importing recycled halon is legal for the US. Price is an issue. AFFF is good for A and B fires. The Navy uses it on ships, subs as well I think. Racer wholesale sells systems with that as well. But I guess if it's an electrical fire, it's not going to help. I wonder what the percentage of auto fires are that are actually electrical and an A,B extinguishing agent wouldn't help. CF3I is a substitute for Halon that AFRL came up with for unocuppied spaces on the F-16, but I don't know if it's gone any further toward commercial use. This paper has some other substitutes listed, but I don't know how many of the complicated ones are available. Inergen is and seems to be good for electrical fires. http://ioe.engin.umich.edu/ioe539/halon.pdf
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Oh, I'm with you grumpyvette! Not doubting anything you said so far on this at all. My ONLY concern about the 114681 cam is that my 2200 rpm cruise will have the engine in quite a "soft" range, below the torque curve. But even 200 lbft (from the EA3.0 analysis, with that cam degreed in as Crane recommends) at 2000 rpm seems pretty healthy. TRACTION, yes, that's already a problem. I'm hoping getting the static rear camber to zero and some very sticky DOT road race tires will help solve some of it. Of course, I can always just use less of the pedal, or a higher gear to stay out of the "fat" part of the admittedly flat torque curve. I'm still waiting for my 215cc Canfields to come in. They had to add temp sensor threaded holes (my request) and it took some new CNC programming. No matter, I want to get the TB Injection running on the 331 first anyway. Hopefully soon. Anyway, I'm glad I won't be the only one with this engine setup in a Z. We'll (Joe?, EvilDylan?, others?) be able to compare notes. I will start with the Vic Jr manifold and I'll post on the results. I have a Holley dual plane as well, which would take 20 hp or so off the peak, but it seems I won't be able to use that anyway. Well, without drag radials or something.
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300 hp and 200+ lb ft of torque may not be over stressing TOO much (for drag starts), but throw some stiff springs and struts, sway bars, sticky tires on it and throw it hard around a road course, and you will find the weaknesses. That kind of beating on the Z chassis is probably harder on it. Any of the road racers here, please tell me if I'm nuts or not on that.
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I don't know what interchanges easily, but I've heard of people cobbling the 240 bumpers onto the 280Z.
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I don't have a two-piece timing cover for nothing! Will do. Funny, I'm sitting here worrying about having a soft low end and you're telling me to retard it 6 degrees! I basically have no idea of what this car will be like with the 406. If too soft with the 6 deg retard, I can always advance from there.
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<sigh> I have a MS 2.0 kit (not built), with a Stimulator built. I need to get a relay kit. My plan is to make it run my Holley Projection 4bbl TBI. But with progressive barrels/injector-sets, and an stepper motor IAC, it'll take some electro-wizardry that I'll need to pick some brains for. No time soon. Of course, the Holley 4D box will be installed soon with the rest of the kit (fuel plumbing almost finished), and if it is bad as I've heard, I'll be moving to the MS sooner.
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I spent many more hours and many more dollars fixing the rust on my Z than I did doing the conversion. Nuff said.
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I was lucky enough to have a garage to keep mine in while the 11 years passed that it was/wasn't worked on. And a trickle of play money to keep the hobby going. What I found useful was to imagine driving it. No kidding. Those imaginations actually turned into dreams while I was asleep (occasionally, not often). And like someone said, keep re-assessing, re-planning based on what you read. Today's hot product is tomorrow's junk. It has to be a religion. You must worship it or it will fall away (the desire to finish that is). Of course, having someone (like your wife) on your A$$ constantly to "finish the damned car" doesn't hurt! BTDT!
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There's this pedal on the right that we have to learn how to not use as an on/off switch . Seriously though, I'd rather deal with too much torque at low rpm (doubt that'll be a problem with 60 degrees of overlap). 60 degrees of overlap isn't that much for a 406 though. 57 degrees in my 331 is about the limit I'd want on the street though. I prefer a clutch. But with a 3.27:1 first and a 3.7:1 rear and 26" tires, I may just decide to start using 2nd to take off. Or build a nonlinear throttle cable to throttle lever cam so that throttle opening is slower at first. I had somebody run my engine (close to what Joe Verna is talking about) through Engine Analyzer 3.0. The low end difference between Desktop Dyno 2K and it was considerable: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/image/406_dd2000_EA30_TQcompare.gif FWIW, these were the inputs: 406, 4.155" bore, 3.75" stroke 6" rods 15cc D-dished pistons Zero deck height 65cc chamber Canfield 195cc heads (2.055/1.60 valves): lift_int_exh(28"H2O) .100__72__53 .200_145_107 .300_201_143 .400_247_175 .500_258_190 .600_259_200 Crane solid lifter cam, PN 114681: 280/288 adv duration, 112 LSA, 111 ICL 244/252 @.050 duration .518/.536 total lift IVO=29 IVC=71 EVO=77 EVC=31 1.5:1 rockers Victor Jr. 700 cfm Holley Pro-jection 1-5/8" block huggers, 2.5" duals, X-pipe, Dynomax Hemi Super Turbo mufflers (FWIW, I'm going with Canfield 215cc heads, which MAY kill a bit of low rpm torque, but they flow 10% more for the 10% higher port volume, so velocity ought to be near the same) Here's a thread related to this: http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=371427 This seems to be pretty typical - DD 2K is optimistic below 3500 rpm or so.
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Isn't the fragility of the older Mustang IRS just the half shafts? Supposedly, Mardi at Raxles.com was working with FURD to fix this with thicker halfshaft sticks. If so, maybe this is a solution?
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Then lots of cubic inches, with the requisite good flowing heads, correct cam, etc. are in your future That or some form of turbo/supercharging!
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It's just that I went the "high revving, quick revving, short stroke" route and found I wanted MORE torque from cruise 1500-6500. I wasn't going to rev my 327 past 6500, since the cam in it would drop off before that anyway (about 6200 rpm peak), and it is about as hairy at idle as I could imagine having on the street. So I took the grump's advice and had a 406 short block built. The cam (Crane 114681, http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114681) MAY be a bit too radical at my 2200 rpm cruise, but I kind of doubt it, especially since I'm moving to TB fuel injection. If it is, I'll use the Comp Cams 12-677-4 http://www.compcams.com/information/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-677-4 that's in my 327, which should pull from below 2000 rpm very strong in the 406. Just my personal opinion, but a high rpm powerband can get tiresome on the street.
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I agree, SPIIRIT, the time it takes to get from idle to peak HP needs to be considered, as well as the torque (or HP) delivered while getting there. The longer stroke will provide more torque on the way up - and that means more acceleration, for the same gearing, etc. Another novel idea here: You have more torque AT WOT than you can use? Well, there's this little pedal on the right that can be adjusted to not be on the floor while accelerating, so that your big stroker motor can mimick the less torquey short stroke engine. Wow! I also agree rpms are expensive to feed for longevity. Oh, and didn't the BowTie block actually come from the design of the 400 block? Just a rumor I heard.
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did i say something i shouldn't have? i was just trying to tie things together.
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I'm not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but DCR is just another way of expressing the cylinder pressure (due to compressing the mixture after closing the intake valve). For instance, Look at the equations at: http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm and the spreadsheet in "Note 1" Notice the "Effective Compression Ratio" (CRE). This is the same as Pat Kelley's "Dynamic Compression ratio". I've run the same parameters through both to be sure. Also, notice that "Cranking Pressure" is the absolute pressure in the chamber, directly related to the Effective Compression ratio by: CP = CRE^1.2 * AP. AP is atmospheric pressure, 14.7 psi at sea level. Gage pressure is just CP - AP, since a gages show pressure relative to the atmospheric pressure present around the gage workings. So DCR, CRE are directly related to "Cylinder Pressure". No mystery. Just as people have recommendations for max cylinder pressure on 93 octane gas (usually 200 psi), they have recommendations for max DCR. The one thing about DCR (CRE) that is different is that it not tied to the prevailing atmospheric pressure. I'd think that cylinder pressure that a certain octane gas would detonate at would be a function of absolute cylnder pressure (CP), not DCR. So wouldn't cylinder pressure (CP) be the thing to shoot for?
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I can tell you for sure that the Xenon air dam that I have (for the 70-74 Z) does not mount to the bumper, but to the fenders and headlight bucket. I don't have a catalog in front of me, but this site shows the one I have: http://body-kits.com/xenon/nissan-datsun_z_coupe_1970-1978.htm The one I have is the top left on, X3124. They get $195 for it (US). The one you want is the top right one, X3125, same price. (BTW, that sale ends June 1) The bumper has noting to do with mounting these. I'd go elsewhere. If the MSA sales guy can't get this right, and they usually charge a premium, spend your money elsewere. Also, try to find one locally, as shipping can be expensive on these.
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Thanks for the pics! That GTO 250 made me drool into my keyboard!
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So did I. But by that time I was a few years into college and didn't do anything to it but maintenance. I liked the 76 Cutlass I replaced it with much better - more power and better handling - by a bit. I'm glad I have more than a few hundred bucks these days to spend on buying a daliy driver! I had a 6 cyl 68 Nova that I put a hopped up 327 in (out of the wrecked 70 Camaro). Talk about a death trap!
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Mike, you ever seen that movie? It's a trip! Yeah, I grew up with cars over twenty years ago. Jacked up in the rear with big tires to make it look like a drag car. We were pretty unsophisticated, we didn't think too far past that. My buds couldn't understand that I wanted to LOWER my 70 Camaro for handling purposes, when they had air shocks. Oh well. I'd be given a ride in Shelby Mustangs and the handling thing just STUCK with me. I look at those that just do the glitz stuff as no different than the guys 20 years ago that had a 6 cylinder Dart and put big tires on the rear, little skinny ones up front, and air shocks to jack it up in the rear. Times changes, but people mature the same way .
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Mike, I won't tell if you don't . I was reading CarCraft lately. The issue dealt with them eating crow by saying for years the PRO STREET is dead. The showed the new Pro Street that is less glitter and glitz, and more about actually having the cars that look like fast drag cars BEING FAST. They also pointed out that the original (80s) Pro Street and the Ricer scene has ALOT in common - wings, wild paint, etc. etc. that doesn't do anything for performance. Mike, I liked the early 70s Celicas - fun little car, and didn't look to bad either - stock . My sisters had a 72 as their first car (twins). I taught them how to drive in it (it was a stick too) and really came to appreciate the light, nimble handling. Power wasn't too bad either. Z car - Japanese, but not necessarily rice either! Are all lexus's, Infiniti's, Acura's rice too? Rice and japanese origin are not necessary conditions for the other. I've seen plenty of japanese cars that aren't Rice. I've seen plenty of Rice'd cars that aren't japanese.
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I'm there next year! Thanks for the report. Much like the report from the guy I mentioned. He too loved the F50 copy. Said it was as good as the F50 in many ways.
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What about the first generation Eclipse/Talon BOV? I don't know if it flows enough for what you guys are doing, but the thing I like about it is, when recirculated like it is stock on the DSM, it's QUIET. If it's not big enough, could you do two in parallel. I'm a neophyte here. Stealth matters Walk softly (and quietly) and carry a big stick!
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275-40-17s.... DO THEY FIT??? SURE THEY DO....
pparaska replied to Mikelly's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Mike, like I said on the phone, after you roll the lip on the stock fender, the wheel house is the next issue. a half inch above the fender lip, the wheel house juts out almost horizontal, then rolls upward. That is the area that tires will hit. Yes, jacking the car up can help this, but that's a compromise. My next set of tires on the rear will probably be 245/45-17s. That's to get away from this issue. John has a point. For the track whore, a narrower, really sticky race tire, is probably the hot ticket. As soon as the tire tilts, traction is compromised. The Z front and rear have such camber change (can be altered) that a narrower, rounded (as opposed to a square-edged tread) that is really sticky is supposedly the ticket. Mashing the gas pedal out of a corner means the car will be leaning. A flat, sqaure-edged, wide tire isn't going to hook well, no matter how wide. In fact width begins to hurt you. -
Joe, I just talked to a friend and Z freak (has a Cobra Daytona body kitted 240Z). He went and said it was MUCH better than in the past. Lots of very well engineered cars. Like a street legal 70s Lola with a SBC, Kinsler EFI, yada, yada. He said there were many nicely done hand built cars there, not just the typical Fiero body kit. The nice thing is that the Sound competition crowd is now on another day.
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Don't know about best sounding but a guy in a 2nd gen Eclipse came down my street today, gunned it, lifted and made a huge noise with his blow off. Greddy? If I can get him to stop, I'll ask. Maybe it's one of those electric fake blow-off valves. You don't think my Eclipse GSX in the driveway and the garage door up with me laying under the fat-tired Z on jack stands made him do that do you? I thought his buddy in the 5.0 mustang with offroad exhaust had a much nicer sounding car. I won't tell the Eclipse guy that though .