pparaska

I think the issue here is that any BOV will be louder when vented to the atmosphere. My 1G DSM is running the stock turbo, but with a spring/ball type manual boost controller, typically at 13-15psi on the VDO gage. I don't hear anything at all. But then again, I have the BOV still hooked as stock to vent to the intake piping. I guess venting to the atmosphere can help when the auto tranny or driver with a manual really shifts quickly and the turbo is really pumping like mad. But all that venting to the atmosphere stuff on the street with a small turbo is just "bling" to me. I roast 2nd gen DSMs that have that junk with my beater 1st gen DSM with the stock BOV vented to the intake all the time. "Bling" - that's cool, too bad it's just noise and doesn't mean anything unless you're really pumping some boost. JMO

David Vizard writes about "Dynamic Compression Ratio" all through his book on camshafts and valvetrains for the SBC (although it's an excellent book on general camshaft stuff). I think DCR is just as valid as SCR. It's the "compression ratio" the mixture sees, due to the intake valve closing part way throught the compression stroke. I'd also say it's alot more useful than static compression ratio, since it speaks to actual low rpm cylinder pressure, where SCR is just for a ficticous engine where the intake valve closes at BDC before the compression stroke. I guess I'm saying I respectfully disagree - DCR is real, and at least one well known author of engine theory books uses the term. Good enough for me.

My dad and I picked up my bare 73 240Z shell (with subframe connectors installed, along with thicker engine frame rails). He was about 81 yrs old (he's 85 now) at the time. He's not a body builder but he's in excellent shape for his age. I'm out of shape - have been for 15 yrs or so. Based on that info, I guessed 400-500 lbs. We lifted it off of high jack stands on about 9" tall platforms (getting it onto the rotisserie) and held it up for 5 seconds or so. Thanks for using the bathroom scales to actually measure the weight. If anything, you could have slightly jammed the scales (pushing the platforms sideways) and that would underestimate the weight. But I seriously doubt that my dad and I could have lifted and held much more than 500 lbs for 5 seconds (at least I took the heavy rear end )

Sounds good. I found it difficult to force myself to not drive it but get back under it and check stuff once it FINALLY hit the road. Good move. Can you give some details or point to a thread here on how you raised your R200? Thanks

Well, the 307 crank is the same stroke as the 327, same bore as the 283. The 307 crank could be used in a 350 block, if someone really wanted a 327. For a 350hp engine, that'd work (it's a cast crank, not forged). Wouldn't it be more difficult to find a rebuildable 283 block than a small journal 327 block, or to put bearing spacers in a 350 block and use a small journal 327 forged crank? large journal forged 327 cranks are a bit rare. But a cast 307 crank would suffice, and you wouldn't need bearing spacers in a 350 block to make a 327.

Yeah, we all have opinion! I didn't read the first thread well. But with 3.54:1 and an automatic, the call for more cubes on the street is even larger, IMO. A 350 will do the job cheapest and easiest. A 283 has a 3.875 bore, a 302/327/350 has 4.00 - that's a .125 overbore, not a .060 overbore.

Why is it weak on aftermarket? Yes, the block is hard to find (but they are still out there). IF you really want a 400, a new Dart or Motown block is available that'll let you go a good bit past the 400's 4.165 max bore. All the big names in forged pistons make 400 pistons, for 5.565, 5.7, 6" rods. very low rpm motor? With 6" rods, my 400 pistons are 440grams - pretty light. If you are referring to mean piston speed, the 4000fpm limit is the same as for a 383 - about 6200 rpm. Oh, the Probe SRS forged pistons I'm using have the entire ring package (1/8", 1/8", 1/16") above the pin bore. Somebody asked about that. Other than block and pistons, nothing is really different for a 400 versus a 350 or 383. And with the internal balance 383 and 400 cranks out now, the balancer and flywheel/flexplate aren't even and issue. You can put bearing spacers in a 400 block and use a 383 crank (that's what I have) or just order a new Scat 9000 crank with the 400 main bearing diameter journals. Performance advantage of the 400 bore: The SBC, even the 350 is undervalved even at 2.02" intake/1.60". Add to that the shrouding in the 4" bore/chamber and the flow is compromised. Go to the bigger bore and breathing is improved (2.08 or 2.1" intake valve, with the chamber wall brought out to the bore to alleviate shrouding.) But that's all really for all out power. Not needed at the 350hp range. But I agree that if your going for 350HP, a 350 is an easy economical way to do it. John, the 302 was a great track engine, but to have it make even 350 hp, it'd be peaky. Granted it may be closer to the "feel" of a built L24/28, but some of us would rather have a 6500 rpm limit on the street and the low rpm "truck" torque curve, but from 2000-6000 rpm or so. 283? what's the point? Breathing is compromised (smaller bore, more valve shrouding).

Well, their description of putting the spacer on the engine block, then the setback plate, then mount is correct. But the photos show it with the setback plate on the block, then spacer, then mount. I made notes in my manuals (1st and 7th editions) to that effect. The pass/driver side thing is another one though. Just remember that you're putting the engine over to the right and that would mean the larger spacer would be on the left to move it there.

The debate over the fast revving shorter stroke SBCs (302, 327) versus longer stroke engines (350, 383/400) will likely never end. I have a strong feeling that if a 327 and a 350 V8Z were outfitted with optimum cams/heads/intakes/exhaust/compression ratios/trans-diff gearing the 350 would accelerate faster. How fast an engine revs with no load is not a factor in speed contests. More stroke will make more torque in the same rev range (all else being optimal for an rpm range) and accelerate the car faster. JMO. (Former 327 revs faster believer)

The pump is somehow bound up? Can you easily turn it by hand with the belt off?

No, these forums are for the mature discussion of Mods to the Z. Young kids DO find this site (I'm glad of that) and we have the curse sensor on for that reason.

Except for her voice... Barbara WaWa. You should have seen her 25 years ago. Not bad. Just have to stuff a sock in that trap. I couldn't listen to that voice day in and day out. Seriously though, she was one of the first women in TV news broadcasting, and that has almost always been a job for lookers. There's a 10 here on a baltimore? (or was it DC) TV station - woo! But part of a woman's sexiness is her voice. JMO.

True DSM enthusiasts will always say that the 1G was much cooler. Kids who want 2G's are just ricers in waiting. Oh yeah' date=' and I love old Opels. [/quote'] Yeah, when the 2nd Gen Eclipse/Talon came out, I thought it wasn't as nicely styled. In fact, several people I know said it looked "Cute", like a girls car The 1st Gen DSM is easier/cheaper to mod to go faster than stock. The stock turbo and BOV were better. And the engines didn't have the dreaded "crank walk" problem of the thrust bearing wearing excessively. I wish I'd bought a 92 Galant VR4 instead of the Eclipse. I didn't know they existed when I bought my 92 GSX. Now with kids, I'd appreciate a sleeper 4 dr sedan with 200+ hp (considerably more easily with mods) Opels - as in GT? Cool. I always liked those too.

Too weird! Sounds like the makings of many nights bench racing and upended beers!

There's an engineer here at work with a rusty white Matador. The guy probably pulls down 80+K a year. Engineers... My sisters had a 72 Celica - that' a cool car if you ask me - doesn't count A few of my fav's that aren't on everybody's list: 1953 Studebaker Starliner Hardtop 1957 Studebaker Golden Hawk Studebaker GT Hawks Volvo P1800 Sorry guys, just about any car you pick that some think is "un-cool" has a following that thinks it's very cool!

Yeah, the MegaJolt should be pretty sweet, but I'd settle for just having a TPS,MAP,rpm ECU-mapped advance curve (MegaSpark). Then drive an MSD or other CD type box. The Pertronix Second Strike looks interesting too, but $300 is pricey. Xander, WTG on the Megasquirt install! Congrats!

Yes, at least that. I prefer to use a stretch gage for rod bolts that you can get to each end of the bolt on (like OE). The bolt preload is what you're after, and that's most accurately measured with a rod bolt stretch gage.

I saw a "making of 2 Fast, 2 Furious" on TV. I am going to have to see it. I guess I'll get them on tape (I'm not paying theater prices) to see them. Mike, way to go on educating the boys on how power IS made, so they can be informed, not repeat the nonsense they hear, and maybe set a few people straight as to how to actually do it. Showing them how an engine goes together, how it works, etc., and reading like you said is a big help - wish my dad had done that. Well, I read a GM overhaul manual about 6 times, and "How to Hotrod your Smallblock Chevy" a number of times and rebuilt my first engine (327) when I was 16. Great education it was. The old man thought I was nuts .

A good friend's 70 SS Chevelle race car burnt the the ground, took out most of the garage, and damaged his father's Mercedes convertible that he was working on for him. About a year ago. Some wiring near the firewall started it. There was no leaking fuel. The fire investigator showed how the short heated the plastic and started the fire. The car had not run in 3 hours when the fire happened.

It shouldn't hurt the fluid damper.

Michael - Looks like all that aerodynamics engineering schooling paid off! You were probably imagining you were the mixture flowing through the ports as you were spitting iron chips . Nice work! Looks like progress! Dude, you need to stroke that thing!

Thanks John! Yeah, heard about Carroll. Sorry to hear that. I think I'll re-read his books in memorium. The bumpstop thing - good one. I was thinking along the same lines, as a stiffer spring causes the tire more of an impulse than a softer one. Of course the bumpstop is the limit on impulse to the tire!

I used a propane torch (just to heat, not burn) the stuff and scrape in sections. Clean up the remainder with mineral spirits on a rag. Heat gun would be better. Morgan (Z31.com) used dry ice. Set it on the floors. Wait a few hours. remove dry ice. Hit with a rubber mallet. Interior asphalt sheets shattered (they were adhered well) and so did the undercoating underneath. You'd still need to do stiffer areas with heat/scraper, but for panels that are away from stiff areas, the dry ice would be the ticket. If I ever do rust work again, I'll have to get one of those needle scalers!

Tim, I agree with your theory - in part. But I think that if you consider the dynamics of what's going on, the stiffer spring (and attendent shock/setting) will create a tendency to break away sooner. Just a brain fart... Were's that John Coffey guy when you need him?

I'll stick with BC Halon or a replacement. Unless someone comes out with a CLEAN ABC. Dry Chemical is a pain to clean up. My Z was covered in it due to a welding fire (don't ask) Cleaning that stuff out was horrible. And where it didn't get cleaned out, it caused alot of rust (like up in the back edge of the roof).