pparaska

I think the issue is that as the tubes come down from the ports, they take too long to start turning toward the rear. They are too long between the near horizontal rearward part of the primaries and the ports. So you need to section the primaries, actually.

You may be on to something there. I've heard that symptom with larger injectors / idle problems discussed hear and on the Megasquirt mail list/yahoo group.

No argument with that from me!

Megatweak http://members.shaw.ca/megasquirt/manual/mtune.htm (software) does automagic VE table tweeking of the Megasquirt based on O2 sensor output. I believe someone has implimented that with a DIY WBO2 to be able to have differing air/fuel ratios in the VE map that it would target.

Scott (RPMS), Great post! My quick definition of rice: Modifications (visual or audible) to make a car look/sound aggressive, in-you-face, shock-and-awe stuff. No functional attributes. Just following the crowd. In short, mods done in bad taste, even though they are "popular".

The original italian job had good car and driving stuff in it. I read a review that said the new one is just as good as far as that goes.

I looked at the Volvo Blue, the Chevy Truck Midnight Blue, etc. back in 97 when looking for a paint color for my Z. The Audi/VW Europa Blue Mica (95-97, not the later one) won out over those. In the sun, it's very popping. 95-97 Audi/VW, Europa Blue Mica, color code is LZ5T, if you're interested. The 98- Europa Blue Mica was a bit lighter but not as nice IMO. It's code is LZ5K. Pics in the late day (dark): (More at: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/firstdrive.html) Pics (before assembly) in mid day/ early afternoon (sunny): (More at: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/VariousPics25Aug2001.htm ) Quite a difference full sun or not. Those pics are with the same digital camera, same settings, no post processing of colors. The painter said it had alot of pearl in it, no metallic. Hence the pop.

CONGRATS!!

When it stops Just kidding, kind of. It should go on until it runs up against the timing gear on the crank. If I remember, I usually measure the distance from the timing cover seal front surface to the crank timing gear face and see how much of the damper hub will go in to the seal/engine. Then you can know how far the back of the damper should be from the timing cover seal front face when it's all the way on.

I guess I'm lucky. My wife would scream at me for hours if I did that. Then she'd tell me to get in the car so we could go return it.

Does the cam have alot of overlap? If it lopes, then it'll always run lean at idle in closed loop. That's what alpha-N is for (down low in the TPS range). Does the DFI allow that?

This is one of the reasons I like to build my own engines. I farmed this shortblock out and don't know whether the piston pin intersects the lower ring land or not. Anyway, it's a 1.125" compression height. Not really worried about it on the street, as the guy who builds these says that with the later pistons, the ring land and pin bore intersecting is not much of an issue. The rings are 1/8", 1/8", 1/16". I have a feeling with those widths you'd be able to package the rings all above the pin bore (probably the reason for those ring widths) I'll ask the builder to see if he remembers if the pin bore intersects the rings.

Jim, the foam I was speaking of is a solid material, less than an inch thick that is applied to bulkheads, partitions, walls, etc. Get it hot (fire in the compartment) and the walls and ceiling "grow" toward you and insulate the adjacent compartments. Even if you close all the hatches with a fire, the steel walls etc. transmit enough heat into the adjacent spaces to start another fire. This was in the ONR 6.2 Research and Dev. stage years ago. I don't know if it is on its way to the fleet or not. That foam you were refering to, is that AFFF? Yeah, slow day.

I bought a used up 327 with a Lakewood blowproof bellhousing and Muncie (trashed synchros) years ago. I kept the heads (on my Z), gave the short block to a friend, used the bellhousing. It was cheap for me. The blow proof adds weight, but down low and not farm from the CG. It also adds protection from having your feet cut from your legs if the clutch, PP or flywheel let go. $300 is cheap insurance.

Yeah the foam reminds me of the intumescent stuff the guys at David Taylor Model Basin were working on years ago when I worked there. Get it hot and it expands to a nice insulating layer.

strotter, I'm not sure if you're playing devil's advocate or not... Z rated tires ARE functional at lower speeds. Sidewall stiffness. And it's about the only way to get the construction and compounds needed for good handling, even at lower speeds. Aftermarket steering wheels are also functional. Louvers are functional - they were a good way to keep the interior from getting too hot. Aluminum wheels? What's wrong with not having skinny steel wheels with goofy 240Z hub caps. Just about everyone you ask (except those purists) think those steel wheels and hubcaps are hideous. Want width (for perfomance) and light weight without resorting to a lightweight steel racing wheel? Alumimun it is. Chromy stuff under the hood? Hmm. There were guys doing that back in the 30s and 40s. Powerful Audio? That's 20+ years old, before RICER was even a word. And I agree - it's about taste. I also agree it's also about doing something the INDIVIDUAL thinks is a good move, and not being aonther of the typical sheople that the van craze, pro street and now rice are overflowing with. "oozing out of a different orifice" Yeah, I agree with that statement! Yeah, ricers (pro streeters, van-ners) are generally car people - they are into modifying their cars. But they have no individuality. Because if they do something new, it gets copied a million times in the next month. They are in a different class of car hound. They are followers, and are into fads. That's why I like the street rod crowd. They are inventive and individualistic. I wouldn't put a colored wire loom on any car I own, or a 5" tip, or a set of spinner wheels, or a CF unpainted hood, etc. Because I don't follow fads. I despise them and always have. They are for sheople. JMO.

I'm with Dan. More in-your-face crazy stuff from the ricer crowd. Reminds me of Pro Street and the Van craze. To me, the doors on Hondas and probably any car not designed to have Lambo doors look like rectangles hanging in the air at angle that is not pleasing. I wonder what wild stuff they'll come up with next. How much money can you drop into a sedan to make it look wild? It's a sedan, it's not ever going to be as PLEASANTLY shocking as a Lambo. Just my opinion.

You'd think the PS2 games with the 240Z would educate the young crowd a bit I had a car (nice 7 series Bimmer with 3 people dressed for church ask about mine. They were sitting in their car parked next to mine for a few minutes (I was observing from the store I was in). They had no idea what it was. I said 73 Datsun 240Z with some modifications. They gave the car a bunch of compliments, smiled and pulled off. The kids in the neighborhood just stare. They don't know. The kid down the street with the 5.0 mustang (loud exhaust, stroker) always looks when he drives by and the garage door is up- we haven't met yet. A group of young guys (teens, early 20s) stopped next to me at a stop sign in a Honda and asked what it was. They had a puzzled look on their faces like they'd never heard of a Datsun 240Z. Compliments and smiles followed. The one I like is the 2 youngs in the first gen BMW M3 (all the Motorsport stripes, wide tires, etc. - really sweet). They pull up next to me at a light. My 5 year old daughter was in the car and could barely see over the door. They asked, looked clueless about a Datsun 240Z. They asked about the noise from under the hood, etc. One said "listen to that thing! That thing sounds fast". (rumpity rumpity rump) The light turned green. I couldn't help myself. Lots of rpm and tiresmoke. They trundled off the line like the car was running on 1 cylinder. Priceless look on their faces when I looked back as I was leaving. I've heard porsche a few times. Most people that don't know what it is and ask look confused when they year the answer. It's only 30 years old

Yeah, it's a pretty nice piece. All hogged out on the back side. Nodular Iron is stronger than the iron most OE flywheels are made of. But I have a blowproof bellhousing just in case .

Batteries tend to explode if they get shorted. Good reason for a sealed battery box I guess.

I have the 16 lb GM nodular iron flywheel. To tell you the truth, it's a bit light and a heavier one would probably make it easier to move the car from a stop on a hill, etc. Just takes some getting used to. But with a lumpy cam, it means rev and slip the clutch.

I ordered in Oct 2002 and got in at the end of the last group buy. Now that I know about MegaSpark, I need to buy and build another Megasquirt box. MegaSpark does it's stuff (replacement for mechanical and vacuum advance plus other functions) using the MegaSquirt computer.

Interesting. If you go the their brochure, it says: Class C Fires (Electrical): DO NOT APPLY TO ELECTRICAL FIRES http://www.ph7technology.com/FireAde2000USA-A4%20Brochure%20NEW.pdf Hmm.. But I guess most auto fires probably start as B. BTW, what class fire is it once it's plastics that are burning?

Wow, I was wondering about this fitment issue. My Canfields have the D-port and I'll probably grind the ceramic coating off the 2001 header port bottom and weld/grind to match.

Black pipe is going to be alot heavier than ERW or DOM. I made a bumper reinforcement out of it, but I don't think I'd want that extra weight up high on a strut tower brace.