pparaska

Oh well, worth a try Thanks a good luck with the rest of the parts!

Interested in the Griffin radiator.

GM High Tech Performance Magazine has an advert. for a "hotrodder's" LS1 engine harness in the latest mag. If it's a good harness with good instructions about how to hook it to a typical old-style car, it'd be worth a good bit.

Too crazy! http://www.rodshop.com.au/project55p2.htm http://www.rodshop.com.au/project55p3.htm You have to love those crazy Aussie's!

my experience has been: You know you have enough horsepower when you're afraid to use it all or you are NOT wishing there was more. Of course, once the tires can't hold it, you upgrade those and maybe the suspension settings. Hopefully, you're still afraid to use all the power after that too! My car is presently in the "not enough" category. I'm hoping the 406 will help with that . I figure something north of 450/450 hp/lb-ft (knocking 30-40 off of the desktop dyno numbers) should get me close to the "enough hp" range. Ordering the Canfield heads today...

Oh, I thought you found someone who bought them and was getting rid of them. AFR makes you PAY for the name. And every little extra operation is super expense. Check out how much they get for drilling 400 steam holes, drill and tap temp sender passages, parts (studs, etc.). Everything is SO expensive with them. That really galls me. Canfields, 195s or 215s complete, (except studs, but with guide plates) are $1190 from Thunder Racing Products (330-792-2451) and probably others. Ken at Canfield advised me to call one of his vendors as they'd be cheaper that way. Thunder RP is close to them and Ken said that they would only sell stuff that Canfield did the work on, not buy bare castings and have someone else do it - Dave at Thunder Racing said that's the only way he'll sell them. Many, like Competition Products, possibly Jegs, buy the bare castings from Canfield and have someone else do the valve job. That makes a big difference in how they flow, from what I've heard. So I decided to only buy Canfields that CANFIELD did all the work on. Just to be fair, the AFRs are partially CNC ported, and have CNC chambers. The Canfields have CNC chambers at that above price. Full CNC porting of the Canfields is another $800 - ouch. BTW, the 215 heads are new. The 215s flow between the 195s and the 220s (which require offset intake rockers) and take standard rockers. Dave at Thunder Racing gave me these flow numbers for the 215s that he said came from Canfield: Lift - .100 - .200 - .300 - .400 - .500 - .600 - .700 Intake 62 - 141 - 207 - 255 - 270 - 279 - 283 Exhaust 43 - 112 - 152 - 173 - 184 - 195 - 213 That's versus the 195s: Lift - .100 - .200 - .300 - .400 - .500 - .600 - .700 Intake 72 - 145 - 201 - 247 - 258 - 259 - 259 Exhaust 53 - 107 - 143 - 175 - 190 - 200 - 203 .100 lift flow is lower on the 215s, .200 is close, but beyond that the 215s flow from 6 to 20 cfm more (.3 to .6" lift) on the intakes, and and -2 to 9 cfm more on the exhausts (.3" to .6"). Note that the published numbers from Canfield have the caveat: "mildly bowl blended ". I imagine the same for the 215s. That's o.k. I'll have that done or do a tiny bit myself. I'll also pay to have them tested afterwards (a pair of ports). I've decided that if 195s make sense on a 350, 215s make sense on a 400. Especially if the flow is that much better. If my cam/heads package are too soggy down low, I'd rather change down to the smaller cam I already have in the 327.

There's a place that I'm talking with (Thunder Racing Products -330-792-2451) that sells complete Canfield 195s or 215s (new head) for $1190. Granted, I'd go for the AFRs for $100 less!

Mudge, we have the same taste in women The one at the bottom of the page ain't bad either! Nor is #7!

I understand - it's the intentional gangster language that gets me. Accents and colloquiallisms make travelling interesting - wouldn't have it any other way! Except the next time I go to Boston, I'm taking a big box of "R's" and hand them out to the locals - a big shortage of them up there . J/K I had a professor in college who was Italian. Had been in the US many years, but must have spoken Italian at home since he moved here. His accent was so thick I couldn't believe it the first day of class (Physics lecture hall with 200+ people in it). Great, I'm a first semester freshman, in my first college physics class and I can't understand hardly a word the guy is speaking (in English). About the third sentence into the first class, he said (very slowly): "I know that my accent is quite heavy. Don't worry, in a few days, you will understand everything I say." It was incredible, but he was right. We all got used to his thick accent very quickly. Great teacher too.

I guess some might see using all the wild slang as a source of entertainment. I'd rather use my brain power and time to learn something else. I'd rather everybody speak straight Americanized English or the King's English in the US. Although all regions have their own style and a bit of slang or colloquiallisms. But if someone from across the US can't understand but every 5th word of what you're saying or writing, I would call that extensive slang in the form of purposeful obfuscation - and a waste of my time. IMO, this is usually done to "be cool" or set your bad self apart from other mere mortals. Don't even get me started on teaching in other than English (other than ESL classes) in US schools. You immigrate, and you learn english. Just about every one that's emmigrated into this country from across the world did that, unless they already spoke english. And passed English on to their offspring. Just my opinion.

In the article about the whistle tips being outlawed: This is capitalism gone astray. Big freaking deal if the shop down the street makes a bit of money on the losers following this ridiculous, anti-social fad. This shop owner could have refused the business and went home with a clear conscience.

I always get "access denied" when I try to view pics people put in their photo album on hybridZ.

Perzactly. I know that the old JDM stuff is getting quite a following. Just like 70s clothes did a while ago. If people like it, that's there perogative. The flairs make the car look like it was turned into a race car. And that's all the rage these days, with the graphics, 30 series tires, extreme lowering, etc. It's a style, plain and simple. Oh, and I liked the look of the old JDM fairlady deck lid spoiler that I bought one, had it painted body color, and used it. If people think that if bolt on flairs give the car the "mean race car" look they want, that's great. Just not my cup of tea. On a street car, my preference is just for a "clean" look, where flairs are bonded on and faired in, and painted body color. But that's just me. Yeah, the deck lid spoiler on my car is bolt on - but no bolts show. I love the G-Nose. I think the air dam makes it look better. Every time I see a G-Nose with the regular, pointy, valance thingy I think "that ought to put plenty of air under the car..." I'd probably try to find a different air dam for it. One that comes out and then straight down. I've seen a G-nose car done like that before, no pic though.

I like it. I agree there's some work to be done on the fitment issues. I think the car would look MUCH better if only the bumper were grey, and the air dam and flares were the red body color. Sorry, I just don't care for the "slapped on" race flare look.

That last link should be: http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=239142&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 BTW, in that thread, I found someone listed a .028" composition gasket by Mr. Gasket. Summit lists it, but you should be able to order it from alot of places. http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?p=4671&SearchType=ECat $39 (each?) Mike, As I remember, the deck heights I measured on your shortblock were .007 to .017" down in the hole. .028" gasket would be a good fit. You'd have from .035 to .045" quench height.

I agree 2002 LS6 would be killer. Talk to Lingenfelter's company - they have a $5K supercharge kit that adds about 115 HP to it. http://www.lingenfelter.com/pac350magscc5.asp a 520hp supercharged LS6 would be sweet. Car and driver noted a 1/2 second of lag from cruise to kick-in-the-back. That's because of the bypass valve closing. $5K is a pile o' money though. a 427 ci LS1/LS6 would be cool too. Again, it's tons of money - 5 figures from lingenfelter and Doug Rippie. Surely someone is building them cheaper.

Heh - you funny! (j/k) No, this swap would be like Dan's - FUNCTIONAL, no spit and polish - it'd be my daily driver! Of course, my insurance company would probably drop me .

Well, the longer rods help the rod/stroke issue, but that's not an issue below 6000 rpm. The main thing a better rod/stroke ratio gives you is less bore/piston side loading/wear. 5.65" rods will be cheaper. But if you can't find a 400 block, a 383 is almost as good and 5.7" rods will be fine but require clearancing the rod bolts and block. Nitrous is nice, but the power is only there temporarily. When the bottles down on pressure, you're back to NA power. Nitrous is great to depend on if you have a drag-only car, but for street use, I don't see it as a viable way to make power that's at the touch of the foot, at any time, over and over. Peak HP is for bragging rights anyway. A flat torque curve in the 400 lbft+ range from 2000-5000 rpm will move a 240 with alot of authority.

If you can find a 400 block, and use 5.7" or even 5.65" 400 rods, and not rev above 5500 rpm, it might be easier to get to 400 hp. Lower peak rpm and you wouldn't have to worry about the crappy rod/stroke ratio or the piston side loading issues as much. Basically build a tweaked 400 stump puller engine. Heads are the key. Maybe some used S/R torquers. Of course, for 400 hp, S/R torquers would be good. More cubes help, and you wouldn't have to clearance for 5.65" rods. 5.7" rods would need to be clearanced a bit at the cam, but that's not hard. I don't know if the block would need much at all for 5.7" rods in a 400 block. Here's a recipe: 400 block (any - 4 bolts are easier to find and good enough for 400 hp, 2 bolts actually stronger) 400 crank 5.65" rods hyper pistons 9.7:1 compression Comp XE274H cam S/R Torquer heads Good dual plane manifold 750 carb I ran that through DD2000 and got: rpm - hp - tq 2000 - 154 - 404 2500 - 198 - 416 3000 - 241 - 422 3500 - 287 - 431 4000 - 327 - 430 4500 - 357 - 417 5000 - 372 - 390 5500 - 361 - 345 6000 - 331 - 290 That cam and that compression (assuming a zero decked block, .039" gasket, and 22cc dished pistons) gives 9.65:1 static and 7.88:1 dynamic compression. Not 400 hp, but the torque would impress more than a peak hp number anyway. BTW, on a 383 or a 400, the heads REALLY become the cork in the power spigot. But S/R Torquers are cheap.

Sweet! - can he document the swap for us? Man, I can see it now - Honey, my Eclipse GSX is ragged out. - I can get a 90-96 300ZX 2+2 cheap! (Then another swap begins). (I need 4 seats - 2 in back for the kids). Black is a great color for that v8 Z32!

I understand. Unfortunately, for those of use that don't use his design for mounting the engine and trans, I'm wondering if it'd be marketable. It'd have to be somewhat universal for differing driveshaft lengths, transmissions, etc., wouldn't it?

I'd love to see pics of the torque tube installed, etc.!

John, you are a lucky, lucky man! I also like the "under the hood, stock" look. But if I had that setup handed to me, I'd find a way to make it "work" for me. That clear scoop idea is pretty cool. That beautiful setup deserves to be seen! Of course, it will now be one of those cars you don't want to park and take your eyes off of. That is a beautiful setup! Congrats!

Looks like they got that wrong. I found this: http://www.aednet.org/aed_foundation/engines.cfm "IHP = R2 x pi xL/12xNxPxn" ------------------------ 33000 R2 x pi = area of cylinders, inches2 (note - R2 is R*R or R squared, not R*2) L/12 = length of stroke, inches N = engine speed in RPM P = mean effective pressure, PSI n = number of cylinders R = radius I put our paper 350 in there, used 4500 rpm, 2.015 bore radius, 3.48" stroke, and 112 psimean effective Pressure (average of the 85 and 140 they say an NA engine sees) and got 452 IHP.

Here's another way to do a driveshaft loop in the Z: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/drivelinemods.htm#driveshaft_loop This gives more room to run exhaust up tight in the tunnel with that version, versus the typical universal loop from Summit, etc.