pparaska

Davy: A T-5 shifter is a T-5 shifter. The only difference is the handle that bolts to it. The shifter is the part that bolts to the top of the case. So I think any T=5 shifter will work on any T-5. Across the Ford and Chevy T-5's there should be no difference. De Schmaydee: Be careful. There are MANY different "tremec" trannies. Jeeps have had many different models, ranging in numbers of gears, ratios, strength, etc. Get with Bob and Hanlon Motorsports, etc. to find out what's what. BTW, mine's a measely TR-3550, like the Cobra R 95 stang had in it, only converted to GM use by Darkhorse performance. I should have gone with a TKO!

But, if we connect it rigidly to the subframe connectors, it doubles as a chassis stiffener

SOLID cement blocks are fine though. As are trunk sections (as long as they are broader than they are tall). Yeah, the cinderblock scare me too! Be careful out there! As for project creep - I'm the resident poster child. But it CAN come back together. Just leave yourself a few years, or a DECADE .

Dudes! Awesome! I'm so glad someone is doing this and at least interacting with us and showing pics! Looks like it's supposed to be in there!

The Pro 5.0 shifter body that bolts to the case is Billet AL. Plenty tough - it's a thick piece. The rest of the shifter (ring, all moving parts) are steel. I never even bothered trying the OE Tremec shifter. It didn't have stops, so I figured a good shifter was worth not breaking the shift forks in this expensive tranny.

That's alot of horsies for a 400 on pump gas at 10:1. 500 I can believe, maybe 550. That's a great deal if it's a good motor!

http://www.pressureprofile.com/products/presstrip.html Looks pretty interesting.

Get on any mustang board and ask. The resounding opinion is Pro 5.0. I have one on my Tremec and I like it. The centering springs are a bit stiff, but my short handle has something to do with how that feels. The springs are just little coil springs that you could probably change out with something from McMaster Carr if you wanted.

It's not really the viscosity. It's the friction coefficient between the synchro and gear that you have with a particular fluid. This is not related to the viscosity (although that's a secondary effect), but the makeup of the fluid. The Redline MTL is a special higher friction formulation. It did wonders for my Eclipse GSX. I'm using BG Synchroshift now, as it was found by others that the lower weight of the MTL was not "thick" enough to stay in some bearings and some experienced premature wear. In my Tremec, I'm using GM Synchromesh. That's what Tremec says to use, so I listen to them. "Michael" Ol thinks it shifts worse than his worn out Doug Nash 5spd though . I'm used to it. Doesn't bother me at all. Much of my Tremec's shifting "stiffness" has to do with a very short shifter handle. Gotta address that too...

You guys are funny . I'm probably around 230lbs. I could stand to lose 15-30 lbs . Not to worry. I have a 406 shortblock on order, and will probably pop for some 235cc Pro Top Line (Pro Action) AL heads. DD2000, with Grumpyvette's favorite crane 114681 solid flat cam says about 490 hp, 490 lbft at the crank, of course. Plugging those numbers (used 400rwhp) into prestage and 2700lbs says 11.00 at 124mph in the quarter. I'd be happy to see low 12s. I'll need some track wheels and tires to get much into the 12s, I think. I'm only guessing 2700lb with me in it. It's not stripped by any means! Back to the topic, I like Scottie's viewpoint on this. Who cares what you "think" it has for HP, if it can't go through the traps at the number you think is should for the HP you think you have, it doesn't matter, except for bench racing . I am considering having my new engine run in and tuned on the dyno, if I can get the Holley Pro-Jection setup ahead of time on the 327.

Paint chips AREN'T very helpful. Here's my advice on finding a color you want. Take off work on a sunny afternoon and go to all the new car dealers lots. Find a color you like there. Imagine it on the lines of the Z. That's what I did.

Scottie-GNZ has taught me well. The only horsepower worth talking about is the HP that pulls you to a final MPH in the 1/4. Too bad my runs say I ONLY have 261 rwhp, according to prestage.com and a guess of 2700 lbs with driver . Pretty lame for a V8Z!

I have a V1.0 kit from the Techedge site that BLKMGK posted about. The V1.5 kit looks better, and gets away from the 13.2V requirement that the V1.0 kit has (wouldn't be a problem for me). I haven't built it yet.

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rontyler/diffmount.html

Lots of traffic around me. I'd take 301 from your area, not 95. Next weekend is bad. But let me know your schedule.

Dan "unhooked" that feature as it eats cpu cycles, which he pays for through his ISP. I miss it too!

Cool, Doug! Now drive that puppy up this way so we can do some cruising!

I bought it. The wife thought the Z pics were cool, but wants me to rip all the rest of the pages out .

http://www.diy-wb.com/

Jamie, it sounds like the HL switch is hosed. There are no relays. Try opening the switch and cleaning it up.

John, how far open are the throttle plates at idle? Too far and the idle screws won't be effective.

Toma, Actually, I WANTED to lower the front of the diff, as it was the last thing on my list to allow me to be able to get a 1 degree u-joint angle like I wanted. What happened was that my engine had scored bearings, I yanked it and while I was under there decided to take Ron up on his offer to make me that mount. As it turned out, the stackup of the mount bracket and the GM tranny (and replacement urethane mount) made it so the diff now was pushed down, so that it was about 1/4" above the 280Z crossmember I have in there. So Ron's mount forced me into doing something I wanted to do anyway . It really is a joy to be able to hammer on the gas and NOT hear/feel those vibrations that I'd experienced in others V8Zs. They were unsettling to me and I didn't want any of that. Now I just have to worry about wheel spin .

You could make an INTERLOCKING urethane or rubber mount that could be a bolt in replacement for the Datsun piece, it that's what Scottie-GNZ is talking about. That'd be a nice solution, as it wouldn't have a ground clearance issue. I'd like to point out one advantage to the "Ron Tyler" design mount that I have in my car: For many V8 swaps, especially the JTR conversion, the pinion angle of the 240-280Z is very much nose-up compared to how the V8 and transmission shaft is installed. The Ron Tyler design allows the front of the diff to be lowered (in fact, it necessitates it) so that the pinion angle is closer to the transmission output shaft angle that the JTR installation typically results in. This is an important detail, if you want low enough drive shaft u-joint angles to not have driveline vibration under acceleration. Check out my "driveline mods" page on my web site for details.

Davy, thanks for the plug. m35514h, check out my Driveline Mods Page page. I can tell you this much. I've ridden in 4 V8Zs besides my own, and all but mine had driveline vibrations under load that were quite unsettling to me. I feel going the extra step to make sure you drive shaft u-joint angles are small (most say less than 3 degrees) and equal front and rear is well worth it. My car accelerates with none of the driveline vibration I've felt in other V8Z's.

Thanks for that compliment! Check out my Driveline Mods Page under: "Differential Front Mount", about halfway down the page.