pparaska

My adjustable spring perch is about an inch or so above the rim lip. The bottom of the spring is about half way up the sidewall. I shortened my strut tubes 1.5". I also used a Carrera coilover kit, which I think allows for 4 inches of adjustment. I have the top of the sleeve right under the gland nut at the top of the strut. Since this put an inch or so of sleeve below the 17 inch rim lip, where it couldn't be used (rim and tire would interfere), I shortened the sleeves in the rear by about an inch (took it off the top of the sleeve). Now the bottom of the sleeve is just above the rim lip. Let me know if I can add any more info that'll help.

Many Datsun dealers offered dealer installed A/C. In fact, Courtesy Nissan still sells the ARA kit! In R12 or R134A!

Jim, I like that - high tech and cheap!

Pete - good point about the IAC. Heck, I have an idle-up solenoid I could mount and hook to a switch for "fast idle" if need be. The big issue for me is the dual table with the progressive TBI. But that's being used by several people already.

That's a nice looking Z! I wouldn't discount it because of the Scarab/Hooker position. You may find that it handles just fine! AL heads, wp, radiator, etc. can help the weight distribution issue, as well as moving the battery to the back!

This is a joke, right? Type R was first a real Honda or was it an Acura. Anyway, the ricer can buy a Type R sticker and put it on anything - including a 4 cyl Ford Fairmont

Tim, glad to hear someone else say the bumpsteer spacers don't help with bumpsteer. I've been saying that for years! I'd love to get comments on how to make a cheap but good bumpsteer gage. I have one dial indicator, and was thinking about using some plywood, some tight hinges (piano hinge), a weight to hold it steady, and have the dial indicator hit the rim edge at spindle height infront of the spinde, and a bolt through the vertical plywood piece hit the rim behind the spindle at the same height. Saw this somewhere. Any comments appreciated.

(Bumping for those of us that look only at "today's posts")

FINALLY found it! It only happened another 5 or six times in the past several months, but today it happened TWICE! I was giving rides to a local guy (ITS Z racer) and his two man pit crew . First the racer was riding with me and the second time I went through the gears at WOT, it happened at about 5500 rpm. Pulled over, and after a few times cranking it started up. Though it was because the tank was 1/4 full, so we went an filled up. Next I was giving on of the pit crew guys a ride and it happened the first time I got into it. This time it didn't want to start. Electric, Blue Holley pumpe was making the right noises. Then he notices the fuel pressure gage was on zero while I had the pump on and trying to start. So I left the pump on, got out a screw driver and started tapping on the POS Holley fuel pressure regulator. Slowly the pressure goes from 0 to 6psi, where I had it set. This is the second one of these I've had on the car. The first one would fluctuate and not hold a constant pressure from one day to the next. Problem solved. POS Holley regulator!!!! I should have gone with the Mallory bypassing regulator. No matter, the Holley blue pump and POS regulator is coming out whenever I get around to putting the TBI system on. BTW, the ITS racer is now talking about forgetting about the L6 for his street Z and going with a V8 for sure. It seems him and his pit crew buddies really like the flat torque curve that starts just above idle That and getting pushed back in the seat a lot more than the NA L6s they use in the ITS car

Awesome! 125!

That's my engine builder friend .

People that have cell phones and love to report speeders, etc., not to mention the guy with the radar/lasar gun love bright red, yellow, etc. Sorry, I love red too, but I had to go with something nice but not so LOUD as to call extra attention to it.

Nion, Sounds like the water temp sensor is getting uncovered as you drive. Make sure all the air is out of the system. Drill an 1/8" hole in the thermostat, and park on a hill, nose pointed uphill and fill the radiator.

Don't feel bad. We all had to learn. Luckily some of us have people that teach us before we ruin too many clutches . I taught my little sisters (twins) how to drive a car and a manual one at that. They bought a nice little 73 Celica (loved that car) and I spent many an evening in the parking lot teaching them how to drive a stick. Starting on hills, the whole nine yards.

Got my kit a few weeks ago. One of the last in on the last group buy. I haven't built it yet, but it'll be with custom software (Dual Table, GM Holley IAC) and some custom hardware (drivers, logic for the IAC). Probably not get this working for quite some time. The issue is I'm going to try to get it to work with a progressive Holley 4Di TBI that has a stepper motor IAC. The Megasquirt only supports a binary off/on solenoid IAC. Make sure you join the yahoo group for megasquirt, if you haven't.

I have 235/45-17s on 17x8.5s on the front of my 240Z, with a iron headed, alum intake and WP, headered SBC V8 in the JTR position under the hood. The JTR recommended Camaro rad is small and very light and holds little water/coolant. I have AC on it also. That gives you an idea about the weight up there. I have the short steering knuckles on the car, and a Momo Competition (350mm, 13.8" diameter) steering wheel. It's a bit tough to steer at parking lot speeds, but nothing horrible.

Sorry I don't. Precision part of the name is right, not sure about the Products part. Arizona Z car, Tweeks, etc. sell this stuff - it's all the same manufacturer.

I've heard that the Precision Products aftermarket one is now better, and they have a version without the lips. But I also heard that they aren't very good fitting either. The new one from Nissan is about $75 with a discount. Not that bad really. It's a safe bet - it fits great.

They said realistically the GT-R will have 350hp. My guess is that it'll probably be over 3000 lbs easy. That's not my definition of a rocketship.

I think some more detail is needed here. The guy that was saying this told me the same thing. I believe it's mostly an issue with cheap imported cast 3.75" stroke cranks, as the strength is already questionable due to material and casting quality, as well as the size of the throws, etc. No doubt a purpose built internal balance 3.75" stroke forging would be fine, or maybe even an external balance one that was balanced internally later. Better material and process, better dimesions, etc.

The 73 Z has a larger booster than the earlier cars. Maybe the pushrod protrusion length is different too.

Mike, I did a bit of research on finding a harmonic balancer for an external balanced SB that's not 8" diameter. The only one I could find was $300+ dollars.

mudge, Courtesy Nissan: http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/ They give a discount for Internet orders. There are others like nissanautoparts.com too, and Brown and Brown. Look in the back of a Car and Driver mag to find dealers that do internet discount parts many brands.

It was on the MC side. Once you take the MC off, you'll see it.

I had to lengthen the pushrod on my 73's booster. It's a threaded end on a threaded rod. But very difficult to turn to adjust. I made it so there was a very little bit of clearance between the MC piston and the rod end. My pedal throw is not long at all. Thanks for bringing that up, Joe!