pparaska

Hmm. Didn't know a universal kit would work there. It's probably some what in the ring and pinion, and somewhat in the spider gears. Wouldn't changing the backlash also change the gear pattern slightly and make it wear more quickly?

Hmm. Didn't know a universal kit would work there. It's probably some what in the ring and pinion, and somewhat in the spider gears. Wouldn't changing the backlash also change the gear pattern slightly and make it wear more quickly?

No, haven't even touched the Z in a while. Maybe this weekend. Thanks for asking!

Joel, I'd think it'd be mobile. I bought the OZ DIY WB kit but haven't built it yet. BTW, they are selling built kits, not all that expensive. If you just buy the WB "driver" and don't get the display, you can use a digital VOM and just convert the volts to A/F with the table they supply. I just got my Echlin PN OS791 sensor (NTK L1H1 stamped on it) from a local parts place. I moaned and asked for a discount being available from my work and they sold it to me for $132. I got it the other day.

Vibration and harshness are not bad. My only complaint is that the noise when gear lash is taken up. I have a brand new 3.545:1 open R200 I bought a few years ago ($300) and I may someday swap an LSD into it to get rid of that. The gear lash take-up noise is my only real complaint about having spent so much time and money on the car and having something that's a bit "rough".

Vibration and harshness are not bad. My only complaint is that the noise when gear lash is taken up. I have a brand new 3.545:1 open R200 I bought a few years ago ($300) and I may someday swap an LSD into it to get rid of that. The gear lash take-up noise is my only real complaint about having spent so much time and money on the car and having something that's a bit "rough".

Yeah, Clean for sure! Me, oh yeah, digging the color as well .

Yes, the Chevy trans mount. Or a Urethane replacement. I tore the Chevy mount and had to go to a Urethane replacement.

Yes, the Chevy trans mount. Or a Urethane replacement. I tore the Chevy mount and had to go to a Urethane replacement.

Dave, that looks really good. Neater with the 90 deg boots too. Thanks for the tip. I guess I may be getting a new set of wires (I used the same ones you did). Thanks!

Cubes or turbo on the street. If it's a race car, it doesn't matter, except for longevity and dollars spent. For the street, I'd hate to have to be at 4500+ to feel thrust, and anything with that kind of powerband is going to be expensive to build and wear out or break because of the high rpms needed to make it GO. Turbo L6 is the cheapest way. JMO,

Dave, I haven't had those problems, and I know what you mean about how the cap is made. I saw that when I got it and had reservations. Mike, thanks for the tip about the truck wires. I was just thinking about how to be able to lay the wires over the cap and not being able to do it with the 90 deg HEI boots that come on the univeral set.

Me = regular goober I just ordered one through my local parts store. We'll see what happens.

I'm wondering if they'd sell one, the price sheet says "when buying CX0000...(their WB box)". I've read recently that you may be able to shop some parts places and have them search the warehouses.

My TR-3550 (smaller, weaker input and output shafts then the TKO) was pretty notchy at first. On the advice of a Tremec rebuilder I found on the web (not Hanlon, BTW), I changed the GM Synchromesh fluid after the first 1000 miles. Actually, when the engine had only been run a few hours and scored the bearings, I pulled the engine and tranny out and the Synchromesh was filthy with many small grey AL chips (very little iron or steel, as hardly any of it stuck to the magnet I fished through it.) So when I reinstalled it, I used fresh fluid. At about 1000 miles, I changed it again. The guy I talked to said change it after 1000 miles, and again after 2000 miles. My long trip to AL made be go past 3000 miles, so I'm due. The Synchromesh is not cheap. But if it helps with shift quality to do that, I'm all for it. My Tremec shifts very much better than when it was new or even had 1000 miles on it. Of course, throw the stock shifter away and get a Pro-5.0.

Thanks for giving me great info for the second time today Dave! What problems did you have with the Crossfire? I'll ditch the cap and put the BlueStreak one I have on. I think I have enough wire length to do it. Thanks!

Shane, that's counter to alot of what I've heard. Heresay is just that, I guess.

Thanks for the tip, Mike. I'll pull the coil out and see if the spring is contacting the coil well. I know the center contact in the cap is contacting the rotor well, as it wears a nice little circular spot on it. This is one of those CrossFire caps. I'm going to put a regular cap on and see if that might be it also. P.S.: Mike, be looking on the door step for a box from me. Sorry it took so long!

Yes, it's a very specific sensor, and is marked L1H1. I'll check the NOPI one, thanks, Mike.

''ssssawwright. Tim, anybody, if you know where I can get one of these sensors, other than a Honda dealer (They want $300+) let me know. Pete

Thanks, Mike. Need to stop by the speed shop and get one of those. I'm wondering if the plastic used on the different rotors have significantly different dielectric strength. Thicker is better if they are made of the same stuff, but thicker and higher dielectric strength per thickness would be even better.

I contacted the Parts Bin, Napa Online. Both sell the unit as a NAPA part, but they are all really Bosch units (NTK, L1H1 marking). I inquired with both to see about doing a group buy. Parts Bin said March 2003 backorder, Napaonline said they didn't know when.

I agree with Dan 100%. Destroking to be able to rev higher is MAYBE nice for a race situation, but if you are driving on the street, I think you're giving up performance. It could also be used to fix a problem like reliability or durability on a vert low rod/stroke ratio configuration. My reading info on rod/stroke ratios tells me none of it really matters below 6000 rpm, as long as the piston isn't rocking like crazy with a short ring package, and the ratio isn't horribly low (< 1.4 or so). The advantage of higher rod/stroke ratio may be in detonation resistance though. Torque is King on the street, IMO, or more correctly, more torque from 1500-5500 on the street will get you the kick in the back that's satisfying ALL THE TIME. The old timers I talk to say the high revving motor like the Z/28 302 was a BITCH to drive around town. Sure it had alot of peak power, but it didn't come in until the 4K+ band. Ever drive something like that on the street? It sucks IMO. All my opinions of course.

yep, that's the cheap way. There's also the Australian version: http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm BTW, the sensor is made by Bosch, and is on back order until March 03!!!!!

Yeah, I was pretty careful to check that, and one gasket under the distrib housing was enough to provide some vertical play in the shaft when the housing was tighted down. Thanks for the idea, though!