pparaska

Check out my Driveline Mods Page under: "Differential Front Mount", about halfway down the page.

I'll have a short stroke, small displacement shortblock available in a few months . Burns a bit of oil though . Going for the slow revving cubes, guys - call me a dinosaur. 406 beats 327 for my uses (street). This thread will never die .

I have my order in for the Megasquirt and it'll probably be here in a month. The megasquirt was developed by a few guys that wanted a CHEAP fuel injection computer. The guys the developed it and those that seem to put it on their cars are people who don't mind fangling the induction and fuel system together from various parts to get a cheap system. I'm pretty sure that there are more than 2 people running them. Join the megasquirt mail list and or forum, and you'll see that people all over the globe have it on motorcycles to V-12 jags. Not sure how many are running, but it's got to be more than 2. I'm going to try it with the Holley TBI I bought, but it's going to be interesting as I have to adapt an on/off IAC instead of the GM stepper motor type one that's on the Holley TBI. That's simple though - use an EGR solenoid tapped into manifold vacuum. I'm going to try it with the map sensor (which can be put anywhere - in the computer or on the engine, BTW) and tach signal. All the software is free. This is like a unix. User run, user supported. A bunch of ee's and computer geeks that program in assembler. Most of the list traffic goes over my head. They are also designing an companion MegaJolt DIY electronic ignition computer. It'll have Ion feedback, knock sensor controll, etc., laptop programming, and other options. This all stemmed from the DIY-EFI group that got started probably 10 years ago. They also have an EFI332 system that is pretty advanced with ignition as well, but is not for the beginner. I just couldn't see spending $900 on a Commander 950, and I want laptop tuning (so SDS is out). The megasquirt will be a cheap (about $125 for the kit) fun project. If I can't get it to work, not great loss - I'll get rid of it and do the commander 950 which is available as a retro fit kit for my TBI. I also am thinking about taking a Offenhauser brand copy of the Smokey Ram manifold and putting injectors in the base and mounting a big air door on the top plate. I could probably do that for less than $500. But if the TBI works out (and isn't too small for my uses) I'll probably hang with it for a while.

If you want only fuel control, laptop programming, and you're not afraid of DIY electronics, probably the cheapest thing is: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

Thanks for the comps on my car, Rodney! I have the 327, it's only a tiny bit high strung (not alot of torque until the upper 2000 rpm range) and as you might have read, I'm going to a 406. Why? More low end torque. I could put a milder cam in the 327 to get some more, but it wouldn't be much more. After driving the car several thousand miles, I've decided that one of the things it DOESN'T do well is cruise down the road well at a comfortable rpm. By that I mean 5th is just for cruising, not really for any kind of acceleration you'd associate with a V8 Z. I know, don't tell me, just put it in 4th. I find myself cruising in 4th mostly, but the engine's at 3000+ rpm at that point. What's the point of having OD, if you don't use it? To me, Mike C really has the right idea for what I want in a street engine - 1000-6000 rpm drivability. (Well, 1500-6000 might be just fine ). Also, finding cranks, bearings in .001 undersize, etc. became a problem for me when I went through my 327 a year ago. The stuff was more expensive as well. A 350 will turn 6500 rpm with a low cost parts and give more torque across the power band and of course, that means more power too. I'm spending a bit more on 400 parts than 350 parts, but that's because I really want that high, flat torque curve from 1500-6000 rpm. 390+ foot pounds from 2000-5500 rpm is gong to be SO MUCH more impressive to drive around than the higher strung 327. Just passing on my experiences.

Mike, I'm a true believer in mechanical flat tappet cams vs hyd flat for mild to warm engines. Past "warm", I'd be all over a roller (solid). The two cams I've had in my 327 are solid flat cams, as is that 114681 Crane cam. You won't hear about me putting a hyd. flat cam in, although it might not make much difference in this app, since I won't be revving beyond 6000rpm. I just like the positive action of a solid cam. I've read and heard from several knowledgeable sources that in the 280adv or less range that a mechanical flat is very close to being as good as a roller, except for maybe a slight advantage on the lift. Even the people at Comp Cams agreed that a roller just wouldn't give me much benefit when I had them help me select that 274/280 (PN 12-677-4) solid flat tappet cam. The extra lift of the roller could be handled with a set of 1.6 rockers on the lower lift flat tappet cam, of course. I see that method as a bit of a band-aid though. Doing this shortblock with AL heads is stretching the budget, so I'm going to have to forget about a roller cam for the time being. The heads are much more important, and it's one or the other. I'll have to revisit the issue of 220cc port heads. It seemed that I had to give up straight plugs and/or non-offset rockers to go beyond 195 or 200cc heads for the companies I was looking at. My biggest dilemna now on the heads is whether to spend extra money on the known-great AFR heads or save $300 on the Canfield or ProTopLine heads. I'm not sure I'd want to go much beyond 6000rpm with a 3.75" stroke. 4000fpm average piston speed that many see as the max acceptable for reliability comes at 6200rpm for that stroke, etc. The 220 heads don't seem to make much difference until 4500 rpm, and even at that point, it's maybe only about 10 hp. That's according to DD2000. Thanks for all the comments guys! I'm listening, although I seem pretty convinced of this build .

Douglas - good point. I know what you mean about having a hard time taking your foot out of it when it's still pulling. The 327 is like that - wants to keep pulling at 6500 rpm! My main reason for going to that cam is I feel it's as big as I'd ever want to go on duration and lift and it's being used to give the builder maximum interference problem for the rod/cam interface. If it's too much, I'll probably just slide the XS274S-10 (PN 12-677-4) Comp Cam in that the 327 has in it.

Thanks for the feedback, guys! And no, I got used to the 327 right away - it could use some tuning and might have another 40 hp left in it. But it's burning a quart every 300 miles (with 3500 miles on it) and not slowing down. So I want it out of there anyway. I can't see going through that engine when what I really want is MORE POWER (well torque too ). Had a bit of a windfall, so the shortblock and half the heads are kind of a gift. I know the exhaust will hurt top end. I COULD change it, but I have the feeling I'd only feel a difference near the HP peak, so I'm not sure I'll mess with that. I'm guessing I'll give up 10-20 hp up top, but I'll probably be gaining torque at low and mid rpm. The TBI is an issue. I'll start out with it, as I picked the entire 700cfm 4D Holley setup super cheap from David Spillman. If I need more, I'll do port injection, and it'll be tailored to this engine. Again, I don't think it's going to be an issue except at the very top end. If I only spin to 6000, that's all this motor may really need. This is a 400, so I'm not going to be reving above 6000 rpm. I'll start out with the Vic Jr. and if the low end is not enough or throttle response is not good, I'll try a dual plane. Good point on the dual plane, but I'm hoping that the usual issues of needing a dual plane for a good vacuum signal to the carb won't be an issue with EFI, even a TBI setup. The cam is a solid flat tappet, BTW. At this level of duration, a solid is almost as good as a roller. Of course a roller would allow more lift, and that'd help torque just about everywhere. But the difference in performance isn't worth the extra $500-$600 I'd need in cam/lifter/valvetrain parts, not to me anyway. This is a semi-budget build. So that's driving alot of these issues. Even still, it'll be a bunch more torquey throughout the 1500-6000 rpm range than my 327. Cubes and heads alone are what I'm working on now. And yes, the builder is well aware of the 400 and the cam/rod clearance issue. He's made it clear he wants the cam I'll use so he can do the clearancing work. That's why I'm sending probably the biggest cam I'd use (the 114681 or something similar) so that it'll be clearanced for that. I might end up using my 12-677-4 or even my 12-222-4 Comp solid flat cams, if the 114681 is too radical for me - but I have a feeling that won't be the case . I also discussed the compression ht issue and the need for oil rail supports and their longevity. Grumpyvette likes the total seal rings because they have a 3rd rail that works a bit better than the rail supports. However, this builder says he's done a bunch of 6" rod 383 and 400s with rail supports and has never had a problem or a come-back.

Thanks for that lead. This is probably going to blow your socks off though. The guy that's building the shortblock, minus cam, timing set, lifters, oil pump, pan, is charging me $1450 to build this shortblock. Using HIS std bore 400 2 bolt block, included in the price! The crank, rods, pistons, bearings, rings are all new! That price includes all machine work, except maybe a bit more to have it zero decked. Talk about cheap! And this guy is an experienced circle track engine builder that's been at this for decades.

Heheh. Yeah. I let DD2000 export a text file made for a drag race game and it put all those sig figs in there - I was too lazy to cull them down. I know what you mean about the Tremec. Wish I'd bought the TKO now! Oh well, if I don't put DRs or slicks on it, it ought to be o.k.!

Sounds like a hell of a good price! I agree on the Scarab vs. JTR argument you gave too. There's alot of weight to consider other than engine weight and placement. Moving the battery to the back probably has the same effect as the engine location change.

I don't think so. You're advertising, probably in a very subtle way what the car has in it. I had some 67 Camaro 327 emblems I was going to put on my Z, above the front side marker lights. I think it would have looked good. But a 406 is going in this Winter, so that's off...

You know me, I used one relay for each speed - a total of three! I didn't want to depend on the OE switch to handle any of it, although the lower two speeds would probably have been o.k.

(I posted this at www.chevytalk.org, but I wanted to see if you guys had any comments as well. The version I put up over there has links to alot of the parts manufacturers sites. Reply here or there at: http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/013538.html - Thanks!) First, let me describe the application: Hot Street car - weekend, hit the strip a few times a year, some road race track days, cruise-ins, banging gears . I don't care much about fuel economy. Not enough miles to worry about that. Datsun 240Z, near 2700 lbs with driver 5spd trans (Tremec TR-3550) 3.7:1 limited slip differential 255/45-17 rear tires (26" diameter) Induction: Holley 4D 700cfm TBI, with MegasquirtEFI computer Edelbrock Vic Jr single plane or Holley 300-36 dual plane (probably the Vic Jr) Heads: Canfield 195cc, Pro Top Line 200cc, or AFR 195cc 64cc chamber, straight plug, AL heads (These seemed the largest ports in the 200cc range I could find that had good flow over the 0-.500 lift range and were available with straight plugs and used standard rockers (non-offset). The larger port heads from these companies all seemed to have non-standard issues.) Block: 2 bolt 400 Chevy OE block, .030" over Crank: Scat 9000 3.75" stroke internal balanced crank for 6" rods (PN 9-350-3750-6000) Rods: Eagle SIR I beam floating pin rods, 6" Pistons: Probe Industries SRS Forged Pistons, 1.125 C.H., 15cc dish, PN 1302-12341-030 King Bearings, Moly faced rings. Cam: Always an issue, huh? I'm thinking about grumpyvette's favorite SBC street cam , the Crane 114681. I'm considering having them do a 280/280 adv duration version, to keep the overlap a bit lower. 1-5/8" block hugger headers, 2.5" duals, X-pipe, 2 dynomax Hemi Super Turbo mufflers. The engine will have a near zero deck, and use a ~0.040" head gasket. This means about 10.5:1 compression. With the 114681, that works out to a 7.95:1 DCR, about 196psi cranking pressure at sealevel. DD2000 gives me the following, with the Pro Top Line heads (the others were close): RPM_____HP________TQ(lb-ft) 2000 148.618759 390.124237 2500 196.450073 412.545135 3000 246.684708 431.698242 3500 305.872131 458.808197 4000 364.925842 478.965149 4500 416.953796 486.446106 5000 458.374084 481.292816 5500 475.051758 453.458496 6000 471.334625 412.417816 6500 449.146271 362.772003 7000 410.008820 307.506622 I'm hoping for a nice powerband from about 1500-5500 rpm. I don't want stump pulling low end torque, but I'd like to have some jump from the 2200 rpm cruise in 5th on the highway. Traction will be a problem . So what do you guys think? Any changes or advice?

If you're in for a bit more fangling, I put an 84 full size LTD blower fan into the 240Z fan box. It has about 3 times the airflow of the 240Z fan.

That's what's cool about my experiences driving/showing my V8Z. The old and young hot/street rodder people and the young guys that drive japanese and riced cars of all kinds dig it. There are some stalwart muscle car guys that just see it as japanese junk though.

I agree. To summarize: Japanese car does not equal Rice Rice equals tasteless things done to a car to make it look fast Any car, made by any manufacturer can be "Riced"

Not sure I follow that, Kevin. Here's the way I look at it. This is the way I understand it, but I'm probably wrong somewehre: A turbo does nothing but add pressure to the intake. Well, it heats that air and you might see some increase in the velocity of the air past the intake valve, but that's a secondary effet. When you do a compression test you are measuring the dynamic compression at low rpm. You read a pressure, that's a function of the stroke, bore, rod length, and intake closing point. And the atmospheric pressure where you are. BTW, I have a spreadsheet on my site that does static and dynamic compression ratio calcs. You input bore, stroke, rod length, combustion space dimensions, intake valve closing point (ABDC), and the ambient pressure in the intake tract. If it's turbo'd add the amount of boost to the ambient pressure before the turbo (14.7 psi or darned near that). SOme examples of builds I'm planning for my 406 are there, but you can change the numbers to suit what your engine parameters are. Inputs are in the yellow boxes. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/tools/VvsP.xls

So what about Probe Forged pistons? I found that they have a set that look good for my build and Flatlander Racing sells them for $342 with pins and oil rail extenders vs KB Hypers of the same dish for $301. THe thing I like about what they say about the Probe SRS pistons is that they are lightweight, and you can run them at .002" piston to wall clearance, which is nearly the .0015" that KB says for their Hypers. Hopefully, you wouldn't have piston slap. For that TINY amount more money, the Probe forged are looking like the winner over the Hyper.

My 73 had the dealer installed stuff. The two holes for the A/C hoses were side by side horizontally, just above the frame rail next to the battery tray

That would be "scarp"

James laid out some good answers. 1) is very opinion oriented. Some like the "stiffer" 280Z (not so sure it's that much stiffer) and some, like me, prefer to start with the lightest car possible and make stiffness modifications that most likely take it beyond any stiffness gain the 280Z had over the 240Z. A not-too rusty 240Z is not exactly a flexible flyer, and if it's a street car you're after, it will be plenty stiff. Less weight = better handling (unless it's TOO flimsy) and also better acceleration and braking for the same equipment. Plus, the 240Z just looks better, IMO.

But you can make them blink if you want to. I did that to mine: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_lite.html

Dave, I agree completely. So you lose 7hp. Big deal. Maybe gain a bit of weight? The styling is way better, IMO. There are a bunch of people on the IZCC list saying the same thing - Nissan fixed alot of styling goof ups on the 350Z when they brought out the G35C!

I found that putting the stainless trim in FIRST after you put the seal on the windshield, but before you put the thing in the car works best. It may help to tape over it to keep it in while you are moving things around. I've done a few in a Z myself. I thought it was pretty easy, even with an old gasket. But with an expensive paint job, I wanted a pro doing it.